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You minus well put them on the SAZ-4500D and they will still have some reserve thermal handling left in them. 3 D1's will yield you 1.5 ohm load 3 D2's will yield you a 1.34 ohm load It really wont make a difference but I would go with 3 D2's.

Kicker > Alpine fixed Alpine > Kicker NOTE: From personal experience Judging by specs alone, type R's will not get as loud as L7's The L7's have more cone area, are more sensitive and handle more watts. The type r's do have more xmax, but that isn't the deciding factor. On another note, I'd like to say that I've ran L7 15's before and didn't think too highly of them, but I think mostly my install was the mistake, not the sub choice.

Lot of misinformation in this thread. All the points in the Big 3 are important. Without doing one of them you may as well do none of them. Grounding points are just as important if not more important than the positive power points. Use the 2/0awg wire on the ground point under the hood. It doesn't matter where you attache it as long as its a good solid clean spot attached to a non essential bolt of the engine. The other side should be on clean sanded metal of the chassis. Even without a High Output alternator, the positive leg is still important. *Remember* you're not replacing cable, you're adding to the stock cable. Use your 1/0awg wire here. Post here with any other questions.

Thanks mac! And maybe it's because my entire build has been problems after problems... so much so i made a thread for them Is This Normal? - SSA Car Audio Forum The Sundown issue will be added on tonight. And it's just that i'm sure it's not their fault. Maybe it was dropped too much during shipping or something. And the pure fact that i got a response so quickly and Chris didn't try to accuse me of anything of anysort made me really fall in love with Sundown. They are by far the best company i've ever had to deal with, ever.

To answer your question simply, I would put the bigger wire 2/0 AWG on battery to chassis ground and smaller wire 1/0 AWG on engine block to chassis ground

The 2 wires I already have are one 1/0 and one 2/0( the bigger one). Which one to use for what grounds ? "the next plosest point" : so, I should not use any point from the engine block ? You think I need to go close to the alternator. MR Sagat : you think the alt(+) to batt (+) is the most important part to do ? I'm surprised. I thought this stock wire should be at the good size for the stock alternator. I don't have no high output aftermarket alt. Let's think of it this way. We have a completely stock car with no audio at all. The starting system on a car may drain 100-150 amps when you "start her up" That may be about 3 or 4 foot of 6 gauge in the worst case scenario and is only used for a few seconds. The alt on the other hand, will have about 6 foot of 10 gauge in the best case scenario. The alt might be rated for 130 amps, and in a stock car scenario that is fine. The alt is usually never under high loads, and the only thing that even begins to strains a stock cars charging system is a weak, or discharged battery. So the stock alt never really gets abused like it would in car audio. In audio that alt might be putting her max amperage through her power wire as long as it runs and your beating the block down. Ok, lets go back to the stock alt wire, I said in the best case scenario it's 10 gauge right? The max amperage on the alt it's connected to is 130. That is the same as a 1500-1600 rms amplifier. Everyone knows that a 1600 rms amp needs more than 10 gauge. You get what I'm saying? In case you wondering how I converted the amperage over to wattage, I used a formula. (Amperage x Voltage = wattage)

Ok. Before you go thinking about spending money you need to educate yourself a little more. Adding more and more speakers is a recipe for a huge pile of shit.

You are making it more difficult than it really is. If you are trying to set your gain with a DMM, then the formula is; sqrt(Power * Resistance) = Voltage So if you have an amplifier that is 800w @ 2ohm, you would have; sqrt(800 * 2) = 40V The other option is to say screw the formula and just set the gain by ear. Considering 800w is way more power than a single 12w3v2 will be able to handle (based on the voltages you mention, it appears you have an 800w @ 2ohm amplifier), setting by ear is probably the best method anyways. Or, if you really want to use the formula, you could use 300w (the rated power handling of the subwoofer) in the formula instead of the amplifier's power; sqrt(300 * 2) = 24.5V You can use that as a "baseline" and then adjust by ear from there.

Contact the manufacturer I am sure they will be more then happy to provide you with pictures of their products. Team Maxxsonics Forum Team Maxxsonics Forum (Powered by Invision Power Board) If you search.. there will be a picture somewhere. Mailing Address: 1290 Ensell Road Lake Zurich, Illinois 60047 USA Contact Customer Support 847-540-7700 8am – 5pm CST Mon-Fri Contact Warranty Support 847-540-7700 8am – 5pm CST Mon-Fri Contact Dealer Locator 847-540-7700 8am – 5pm CST Mon-Fri Fax: 847-540-9776

I would take a Sundown over a Maxxsonics product any day! CEA is all marketing crap anyway!

Lots of people like the type R's. IMO there's better stuff around here for the money, but for something you can get at a big box store they're a good value. I've owned some X-con 18's (sold them before I got to play with them). They are pretty formidable and looked/felt well built. I wouldn't hesitate to run 2000W to them...then again you need to pay attention to bottoming out and funny burning smells. A single good 18 in a well built box will do all you want. Sub up is fine in SUV or wagon. Less better drivers is generally better than more poor drivers IMO.

The 2000D is a mono amp. There is no bridging. At all. Bridging is when you wire together two channels. Since the 2000D is a mono channel, it is a physical impossibility to bridge that amp. There are two outputs on the amp for ease of wiring, but using the + on one side and the - on the other is NOT bridging. Whoever said he is bridging that amp, if that's the same amp he's using, is wrong.

Just PM Shizzon. He knows EVERYTHING about EVERYTHING without knowing ANYTHING.

Dude quit getting your panties all bunched up! No need for an internet tough guy here. This forum is for having fun not slamming other members.

I THINK I GOT AROUND 3.54CU/FT YOU THINK THAT A BIGGER BOX WILL DO BETTER JOB OR MORE DB'S 1) Stop yelling or die. 2) A larger enclosure increases efficiency, making more pressure with less power input. You also take the risk of mechanical failure.

I THINK I GOT AROUND 3.54CU/FT YOU THINK THAT A BIGGER BOX WILL DO BETTER JOB OR MORE DB'S 1) Stop yelling or die. 2) A larger enclosure increases efficiency, making more pressure with less power input. You also take the risk of mechanical failure. question, if larger = less power require does MORE power = less cubics? sorry if that is a dumb question if it is i WILL DIE lol Generally with less air volume it will take more power input to achieve the same volume.

How much does the xcon 18 run for? Do I just need to call?

DC Power>> Mechman> irragi if your on a budget go with irragi they're decent for the money. But by all means do what you want. If you want to try DB electrical, do it. Let us all know how it goes

on simple minded people

um you guys are kinda dumb yeah....^^^^^^^ how are you comparing a 2500 rms sub to a 400-600 watt sub.. not everyone has the same goals. get real