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Just because a good woofer has a custom recone, it doesn't mean it continues to be a good woofer with the new "custom" parts on it. Half of the time the people with those "custom" woofers don't even know the T/S parameters of the woofers they've created (or purchased). The performance of a subwoofer is a result of the sum of it's parts. A good motor without the original parts but instead a "custom recone" done will not necessarily have performance anywhere close to the original. You are assuming the performance will be identical between the two. This is not necessarily the case. Just because you tossed a recone into the motor of a w6v2 does not mean you will have performance equivalent to that of a w6v2 unless you used parts identical to the original. So no, you are not necessarily going to get the "same thing" for $100 instead of $250. You may have an operational subwoofer, but that doesn't mean it will be equal in performance to a w6v2 just because you used that motor. LOL....yeah, right. So, tell me, how about did you go about designing this new custom driver to improve results over the original? I've ranted about this before, but this ridiculous "recone boner" going around the forums leaves n00bs like yourself under the delusion that anyone can just mix-n-match parts onto a motor and come out with great results. It's not the case. Half of the people with these "custom subs" wouldn't know a good subwoofer design or performance from their asshole, yet they parade around the forums about how great their sub is because it's "custom". There is a reason subwoofer companies spend months to years designing and testing a subwoofer before bringing it to market. It's not because they are just randomly tossing parts together like so many of these "custom recones".

Yes, you are technically self-employed for tax purposes. Like he said, save all receipts for WORK RELATED expenses. (i.e. Don't keep the receipts for beer/etc, you will have to be able to prove they were actually work related expenses if you ever get audited). Also keep a log of any work related miles you put on your personal vehicle, if you drive it for work. Whether or not you need to save back money for taxes depends on your tax bracket and how much you will be able to claim as expenses. If you are really worried about it, your best bet would be to consult a tax professional. I personally would save back some money for taxes as a CYA. I personally would save back around 20-25%....but if you claim a lot in deductions it's possible you may not have to pay much if any in taxes at the end of the year. I'm not sure how long you plan on keeping this job. But keep in mind some creditors will use your tax returns to verify your income if you attempt to get a loan (for a vehicle/etc), and if you can't prove positive net income on your tax return it may exclude you from being able to get a loan through certain creditors. So it's a gray line you have to walk.....claiming as many deductions as possible on taxes to reduce your tax liability at the expense of being able to prove to people you actually make money.

Who wants to see it?! This is my first attempt at a movie editor, also just bought a 720p HD camera for new youtube vids... anyone?

I don't know the 40% power thing to be true. But, regardless, as with anything there are advantages and disadvantages. XBL is a good technology with some nice advantages. But, there are other ways to obtain good results. Some of the best drivers to hit the market have used well designed standard over or underhung motors, or variations of a standard over or underhung motor. The W7 for example uses basically a standard overhung motor with holes crossdrilled in the pole at the gap. Aura NRT is basically an underhung motor. And companies like Peerless and Scanspeak have done well producing very low distortion drivers with basic overhung motors. But, here is a comparison by Neil of the 3 "main" linear BL topologies; An Unbiased Comparison of Linear BL Technologies - SSA Car Audio Forum

Once again folks.. The fuse on the wire isn't to protect the equipment, its there to protect the wire. Everytime you drop the wire size off of the main run you should re-fuse the wire with an appropriate fuse. If you have a run of 1/0awg running from the battery to a fused distro block, and from there it splits to one 4awg and one 8awg. Your main line is fused with a 200-300a fuse because that's what that 1/0awg is capable of carrying. If you don't fuse the smaller wires to what they are capable of carrying (70-80a for 8awg, 100-150a for 4awg) and you short the power cable, you're going to be sending 300a of current down those tiny wires. That's going to result in melting wire, and most certainly, fire.

Nice pic! That's the way I would do things. Everytime you drop the wire gauge, you should re-fuse to that new awg.

the driver allows you to tune lower, the box would be most important in this case. Yes, but in reference to what he's asking, it's not driver specific. yeah but you mentioned install and vehicle will determine everything which is of course false information. the box would be more important than any of those in terms of hittin lows. The enclosure is part of the install, no? nope. the enclosure is the enclosure. do you just install the box, no you design it and then build it. it would be part of an install if it was a premade box. And how is the box not part of the actual install ? Are you towing the box behind the vehicle ? You have some very skewed ideas.... so your saying nothing is specific....... everything that goes in is called an install. so it doesnt matter what sub, electrical, amp, box, tuning is all generalized by install because they are all being installed. lol Let's just design a box and don't care about the other parts involved (the install), plop in in the car and wonder why it sounds like arse... It's easy, everything that is installation related is part of it. You are starting to contradict yourself. Now you are saying that the enclosure design is specific and a couple posts before you said that the scenarion where you use it doesn't matter. Make up your mind. Look at the bolded posts again.

You don't hear about xbl mcuh because Dan Wiggins holds the liscence to the product and he only does OEM work now. Kinda like a neo magnet, not many companies use it right? But what most people don't know is neo magnets are used on just about every small application from cell phones to the motors on the active braking on a Toyota Pruis. Mr. Sagat, if you miss Adire, I am working on 12 and 15 that achieves 24 mm of one way linear excursion with only 600 watts that might interest you. Dude, if you can make it an sq monster and it looks bland like adire products did, then I'm all in

100-150A would be fine for 4awg.

That's not what happened. XBL^2 is Adire's (well, Dan's now) alone to use due to the patent they have on the technology. The reason Ascendant stopped using the technology was supposedly due to a comment Dan made on a forum that Chad didn't care for. Atleast I believe this was the public reason. I believe Chad even posted that as the reason on their website when they announced they were no longer going to be using the technology. Basically someone on SIN I believe asked why someone should buy an Adire driver over an AA driver if they both have XBL and the AA is cheaper. Dan said not all drivers are created equal and just because they have the same motor technology that doesn't make them the same driver. Chad claimed he took this as an insult and slam on his company/products and used it was the reason for dropping XBL. My guess would be AA was planning to drop the technology and found that as a good opportunity to jump ship. IIRC they had a new lineup out shortly thereafter It's still around. Just off hand the newer Stereo Integrity, Exodus Audio and CSS drivers utilize XBL^2. Adire went out of business and Dan I believe burned some bridges just before the collapse, so a lot of the "Adire supports" went by the wayside. Dan's lack of presence on most of the forums likely caused a decrease in talk about his drivers. And Adire did a lot of OEM work along with the forum presence which dissipated after Adire collapsed. So that killed some of the XBL^2 buzz as well. And then, of course, you have the simple fact that "boners" on the internet move in waves. You'll have a hot items or buzzwords tossed around for a year or two only to be forgotten and replaced by a new "boner". On top of it all, since XBL is patented you had (have) to pay Dan a license/royalty fee to use the technology which made it more expensive than a "free" topology to use, so some of the companies (like AA) that used the design opted to drop it in favor of something they didn't have to pay for. Some of this paragraph is speculation, some of it is just forum heresay......but it probably all had a hand in the reason XBL isn't talked about as much. Dan is still around and designing drivers; About ADI

tell your friends to get off those other crap-tastic forums and get it straight on SSA.com!

The way that fiberglass weakens MDF is , The fiberglass resin soaks into the top 1/8 inch of MDF and that 1/8 is brittle while the rest of the MDF is still soft. NOW what occurs next is the MDF no longer has ANY give between ITS OWN layers and WILL start to seperate. MDF by its self is NOT brittle, Fiberglass in thin layers is VERY BRITTLE, The two materials have different attributes. Both have a use in this world, BUT you will gain absolutely NOTHING from using the fiberglass in an enclosure. The correct way to make an enclosure SOLID is to use internal bracing. AS stated before, you should read my summary at the end of my "rambling" thread.

That is a serious drop. I would suggest easing off until your electrical system is a little more beefed up to handle the current draw.

the driver allows you to tune lower, the box would be most important in this case. Yes, but in reference to what he's asking, it's not driver specific. yeah but you mentioned install and vehicle will determine everything which is of course false information. the box would be more important than any of those in terms of hittin lows. The enclosure is part of the install, no? nope. the enclosure is the enclosure. do you just install the box, no you design it and then build it. it would be part of an install if it was a premade box. And how is the box not part of the actual install ? Are you towing the box behind the vehicle ? You have some very skewed ideas.... so your saying nothing is specific....... everything that goes in is called an install. so it doesnt matter what sub, electrical, amp, box, tuning is all generalized by install because they are all being installed. lol

the driver allows you to tune lower, the box would be most important in this case. Yes, but in reference to what he's asking, it's not driver specific. yeah but you mentioned install and vehicle will determine everything which is of course false information. the box would be more important than any of those in terms of hittin lows. The enclosure is part of the install, no? nope. the enclosure is the enclosure. do you just install the box, no you design it and then build it. it would be part of an install if it was a premade box.

no, so you are saying the box is just part of the install? so what about tuning? or is that just part of installing it? what dumbasses you guys are. im one of the only ones here that actually tried to help the OP and all you fags are just jagging on his thread talking shit. and john holmes this whole time? fukka you only been here for like 2 days. get real