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Im thinking there is a slight language barrier here.

Skip all other posts and read this one Im not trying to sound like a smart ass here, (IM REALLY NOT! I KNOW NOTHING COMPARED TO Y'ALL AND YOUR SUGGESTIONS AND COMMENTS ARE VERY HELPFUL TO ME) but of coarse its based on amp power and driver config, ive never argued that infact I dont think even ibanter or whomever has either. Hes saying box size needs to be part of the equation. And to a certain degree hes right, cause your box needs to be a certain size to maintain the specifics of the port, and driver that your looking to use. So im taking everything into consideration, and not just one post. Like Ive said in others, I dont come here for one peice of advise, I want to know what everyone thinks, what everyone recommends, and maybe even suggestions, those are nice. When its all said and done some of the specific comments might not have anything to back them up, but to some degree the principles they speak of should be noted. Im not defending or crossing anyone here, and Im grateful for info from everyone here Unless you just post a link to someones post saying this is the only one to read - cause its not how I choose to do my research. All the opinions here matter, thats how it helps me come to my conclusions, and without conflicting ideas the point of asking is gone. AND im changing the design to a single port between 50-55 inches of port area. Id like to go up to 60 but if I do it just throws off the space i need with the added length required.

You are perfectly fine. Its a good practice to maintain your batteries. I check mine often to make sure they are good.

I don't see why you couldn't, it would be doing the same thing as the alternator would.

Thank you Next up is to seal off the trunk. Then I have to start the front stage. Not really looking forward to fiberglassing, I have never done it to this extent Take your time and remember it will take several stages of sanding(wet sanding will help) to get a nice slick surface, depending on what you are going to use for a covering. If you do as well fiberglassing as you have with the wiring it will look great! Keep up the good work!

I think where people get confused on this is what is actually happening with the port in respect to the enclosure. The port is the primary contributor to system resonance in a 4th order vented alignment. The size of the enclosure and the area of the vent are really not included in this basic foundation. Case in point. If you take an 8 cubic foot enclosure with a single 3" I.D. vent that is appropriately tuned for a desired resonance it works perfectly well. How do I know this? I have placed a Focal 8V4412 in this exact box and performed measurements using IMP, 15 years ago. The vent had the predicted resonance, the impedance peaks were where they were suppose to be and there weren't any erroneous driver behaviors. This is with an enclosure thas had roughly less than 1 square inch of vent area per cubic foot. Why did this work well? It was an 8 inch driver with roughly 7mm of 1-way throw being driven with 50 watts... On the other hand, I have used 6" I.D. vents in 1 cubic foot boxes and they also behaved as predicted. I was doing some early designs with assisted 4th order alignments and a 1st generation Adire Brahma 12" subwoofer. Using a rane parametric EQ and trying to run the driver flat down to 20 Hz in a box this size required all of it's excursion at even moderate listening levels. This require a large amount of vent area to stay away from compression. The vent in this case was very long, all of it was outside the box. But is still behaved as a vent, the cone was heavily dampened at resonance and the impedance was where it should be. This was with an enclosure that had roughly 25 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of enclosure volume. What is the point of these 2 paragraphs? Vent area has nothing to do with the enclosure size, but everything to do with the driver and power used. But again, this goes down to the basic foundation of this concept. I am not arm-chair quaterbacking this either, these are real world scenarios I have actually conducted myself. That is all I am going to offer on this subject.

Trunk looks really clean and shows off your great work on the rca's. More More More!!!

So clean, I love the photography and simplicity of everything.

There are 2 major factors that I think will kind of help explain what you are asking(?)... Normally, in a vented 4th order alignment (which is most of what we discuss on here) you are going to have 3 impedance peaks. The first 2, which will be domiant for most of our applications, are the peaks below and above the dip (trough) at tuning. The 3rd peak, and not quite as signifigant (or completely ignorable if you are totally out of the bandwidth) is the gradual peak that is caused by the inherent inductance of the voice coil. So, an easy way to describe the first 2 peaks.... At resonance, the cone of the subwoofer is highly damped by the entire system attributes (mainly the Hemolitz resonation taking the load from the cone in an efficent manner) and due to the high amount of dampening (control) the reactive electrical properties are at a low point (null) and load is moved into a more resistive (reactance properties start cancelling each other out) realm... Above and below this point dampening suffers quickly and is immediately apparent due to the high amount of impedance shift... I am not sure if this is broke down well for understanding... I haven't really had to explain this many times and there are alot of people out there who could convey this better than I... The 3rd peak is easy. The voice coil is an inductor, inductive reactance is proprtional to frequency. And a little food for thought, some overhung designs have 4-5mH of inductance, this starts raising impedance signifigantly as low as 100 Hz or so.... This is why I always say there is no such thing as "Impedance Rise".... You can see, the impedance goes up and down alot...

Well if I was going to put together a budget system. I'd get mb quart dsc-4125 4 channel amp $150 Alpine type r 6.5" components spr17s $100-150 One SKAR 12" vvx sub in a ported box $200 Around $500. I'd run the alpines off 2 channels of the dsc4125 and bridge the back 2 channels to give the sub 500 watts.

Good job man, sorry about your ride. Sucks to pay all that money for "road work" on your taxes and shit like this happens. Nice macro shots too!

AWESOME work on the rca's. Been wanting one of those solder stations, I need the magnifier cause my eyes arn't what they use to be.

Take a serious look at the Xcon. It's a fantastic driver. But the Fi btl N2 is not an all spl driver. My 12" btl plays really well. And I had an Xcon 15" on the same saz 1500.

looking beautiful man!

Looks cool, plus you can make it the exact length from amp to amp if strapping and with no excess wire hanging around it looks super clean.

DD for sound quality, I would not. Icon or Q from your list. Or get another w6. If sealed, go ported and tune to where you need more output at.

Damn Bro, I have missed a lot on your build. This is turning our really nice. Very very clean. Well done Sir. BUT, Did I miss something?????????? Where are the pics of this badass motherpucker at? Lo no you didn't miss any pics if the SRT8. That is my buddies truck. He races it often and would never add weight He runs high 11's in the quarter, no NOS! Ah, I want one! Saw one with STS turbo a few months ago and came a little in my pants. lol Damn, what an SUV. Sorry to get off topic. Your build is coming long very nice Bro. Should sound awesome when you get her all done.

sweet build loving the box, tuned in for vids, any reason for mounting the sub without the trim ring?

Damn Bro, I have missed a lot on your build. This is turning our really nice. Very very clean. Well done Sir. BUT, Did I miss something?????????? Where are the pics of this badass motherfucker at?

Great build, wish youtube videos could do justice when it's done Oh and congratulations on the house

Trunk is coming together nicely!! Looks Awesome!! HU and voltmeter setup -- !!

Everything is looking good. The trunk is coming out titts! Have you used Crecendo amps before? Keep up the killer work!

i ended up buying the smd 18s.. hehehe will be powerd by audiosystem helon 9000.1

you know your addicted when you start buying your cars to fit your subs......

Unless you have a explanation, don't give out this kind of advise. How can you compare a 15inch 1000rms sub to a 18inch 3000rms sub equally? So before you post,calling people wrong and giving out misleading info, think, you could be one wrong.