Leaderboard

My current build can be found here. Decided to try out a ZCON. I probably would not have bought one but I bought this used at a good price. USPS is holding the driver at their facility so hopefully tomorrow I can pick it up. Really going a different route with the enclosure as well. I picked up a few 8" aero ports from Adrian_D Enclosure specs : 4.11^ft tuned at 35hz The port opening is literally right beside the sub. I am very curious how this will work out. I suspect some funky things will happen, we will see. Port will be semi external and sub will be mounted inverted. I will eventually be powering it with my DC Audio 2.0K that I've had in my closet for four months. Just have to wire/mount it up. Enclosure is almost done. I have some finishing touches to do yet.

PayPal has always been our main merchant for processing orders in our store, however, we decided to make things even easier on the customer since some people don't like/want to use PayPal. They find it to be to confusing during the checkout process if they do not have a PayPal account. This being said, I would like to invite anyone who has abandoned their shopping cart on the SSA store due to paypal, to come back and try this again, the whole process is very easy and smooth. Simply Select Credit/Debit Cards at checkout, you are then forwarded to this page: Enter your information, and you're done. Forwarded back to SSA with a verification that your order is complete. Thanks to all of our loyal customers, we do appreciate everyone's business!! p.s. You will always be able to use PayPal with us, this is just another payment option added to our e-commerce experience.

Added the new longer ports. Should be 34-35hz tune now.

Audison Bit One Audison Bit Ten JBL MS8 Rockford 3sixty.2 Headunits, not sure exact specs on each, look for yourself. Alpine 9813,9815,9833,9835 Pioneer Premier 860mp eclipse 8053/8443 There are tons of choices, way way more then the above, you just have to look.

An equalizer allows you to attenuate and boost bands / sections of the frequency range. A processor may be capable of multiple things: Time Alignment, EQ(equalizer), digital crossover system for speakers (crossover points and slopes), and some have their own "auto tune" algorithm. You need to be able to apply filters to your speakers, so speaker A plays from x to y, and speaker B plays from y to z. BASIC description.

Compare the SA line which only has a 2.5" coil, to the FCON which will have a 3" coil. Both rated at 600w. Which would you prefer?

Monkey-see Monkey-Do Happens a lot in this hobby. I could go on a pretty long rant about all of the useless or senseless things people do in this hobby. In all honesty, it doesn't really matter. Even if the amp is over rated by 25% you're not going to hear a difference. As long as you're not running one of those extremely low end amps which rate everything at PMPO or ILS, generally real power output is going to be close enough to rated to not make an audible difference. It's often nice to know just from a manufacturer reputability aspect.....sure, I'll put a little more faith into the general build/design quality and respect for a company if their 500w amp really outputs 500w. But if it only does 400w, you're not going to hear a difference. Unless you are chasing #'s on a meter, it really doesn't make that big of a difference. But to actually measure the true output of an amplifier to the level of detail and accuracy required to compare it to the manufacturer's rated power is generally going to require a professional level measurement setup. A "clamp test" will do nothing of the sort.

The first question is why you would want to "clamp" your amp to begin with? What are you hoping to find out and how will you use that information? "Clamping" an amp in the manor it is most commonly performed provides little relevant or useful information. The reason the measurements aren't accurate are many....for one, you don't know the accuracy of the measuring equipment. Second, measuring power into a reactive load (i.e. your subwoofer) is not a simple Volts x Amps calculation. Third, you are not measuring distortion (even with an o-scope you are not measuring distortion, only when the wave begins to clip). That's just to name a few. So all in all, the results of your measurement will be virtually useless and it will not tell you how much power your amplifier is "really" outputting. About the only way to do that reliably is with a professional level bench test measurement system, which isn't cheap.

I've always adjusted by ear, tried Dmm and turned out to be clipping still. I'm lucky, Two of the top twelve retailers by mobile electronics magazine are in my area!

We (SSA) are in the grey area as a lot of shops don't want to carry SSA, because they 2x - 3x the margin we can offer. Most shops don't care about quality, and don't feel they should pay for it unless a name like Zapco or JL is on the front. So we have been growing, dealer wise, more organically with smaller shops and some competitors who are not about huge margins and pushing product on people, but more so enthusiasts that care about audio and understand about doing it right the first time. This way is much slower in terms of growing as a brand, but with a great product and honest people who love it, it is much better overall in my opinion.

I hate that as well. Or "I don't give a shit how it sounds inside, how do I make it loud outside?"

I'm down to what I hope is my last major mods, bolting down the center brace. This is usually a simple nut and bolt affair, but in my situation it's never that simple. I'll be bolting the center brace to the section of the rear floor pan that rolls up supporting the lower seat back. Complicating things is the gas tank blocks the holes from the underside of the car. Luckily there is a solution to simplify the ordeal. I'll be using some rivet nuts and a special hand riveter like tool to install them. Rivet nuts are like rivets in that they compress onto the sheet metal, but they have threads on the inside to provide mounting location for bolts. Snazzy, huh? Here is the installation tool. I picked this up at Harbor Freight. Came with different size mandrels for popular machine screw sizes. The rivet nuts that came with it are made of aluminum and they suck. I picked up these zinc plated steel ones from Mc Master Carr. It's pretty straight forward. Here is the insert next to the mandrel Thread the insert onto the mandrel. Insert the rivet nut into the hole and squeeze the handle to compress the rivet nut onto the sheet metal. Here are the holes I drilled to mount the center brace. It's important to get the hole size right. Here is the rivet nuts installed. A threaded mounting provision in sheet metal, or what I'd like to call heaven on earth. The center brace is finally in place.

Everyone please like my pic on this page to help me win free stuff. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=282244221842110&set=o.126093154076184&type=1&theater