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I believe I answered your email and put the change order in. Thanks for picking an Icon.

Just thought I would share some pics of what I just made today. Let me know what you think.

Interesting, I'd put her on a work out regimen to reduce the size of the ass. Then it'd be better. No cheeseburger necessary IMO. Yeah, you are officially insane. If anything, her ass is too small. Now, I agree she could eat a little more, but not a cheeseburger. Perhaps some Polish sausage. My wife wasn't that big when she was pregnant lol. As for eating sausage, that's an always. Ugh, you guys getting old or something? One says she needs to eat, another says she doesn't. My dick says she's perfect for the job. Her pic has since been taken down so I am freakin lost. J It's two pages back, or

Pretty much done with the sub system install. I am using an aero port flare inside the enclosure and have decided to try it without a port flare on the other end.

thanks for the input! I am new to this kind of thing so I am still learning. I will deffinitly be adding another set screw.

Congratulations to the winners! Below is the list. I am waiting on a few people to get back to me with contact info. So if you are on this list and have not sent your contact info, please email me, thanks!

also remember when you push subs past there rated limits warranty goes out the window and one look at the subs coil will tell all.

Where does it hurt? Rather than describing I feel this is a better way to convey the message Basically right where the tip of the arrow is on either side.

Stop in and say Hello!

Alot of pics not loading but here is a few

Even better when I break it

thanks dani

This seems to be the issue. I believe this hit it right on the nose and I thank you for your input. I would also like to thank everyone who actually gave me suggestions on how to approach this problem. Today, I placed my subwoofer inside another enclosure that belongs to a local member, swift. And all seems fine, the subwoofer showed no signs of stress and sounded great. So the conclusion to this is that, in MY application, I could NOT use a larger enclosure. Swift will begin building my next enclosure soon. WONDERFUL news. I can relax now. In a way this topic is nice in the fact that some people can see that many car audio aimed sub woofers have a happy range in which their enclosures should be and the power they should get. Example, Dcon's like smaller boxes on modest power, where as Xcon's like bigger boxes on bigger power. All relative to the sub woofer and the environment it is in. Sorry about that Aaron As stated before, I was simply asking for advice, which I recieved to try and help me. In the end, I learned how much of an role that enclosures have on subwoofers. No worries, I just always want people to have a positive install with our drivers. Glad you were able to get it worked out and it was something as simple as a box that was too big.

This seems to be the issue. I believe this hit it right on the nose and I thank you for your input. I would also like to thank everyone who actually gave me suggestions on how to approach this problem. Today, I placed my subwoofer inside another enclosure that belongs to a local member, swift. And all seems fine, the subwoofer showed no signs of stress and sounded great. So the conclusion to this is that, in MY application, I could NOT use a larger enclosure. Swift will begin building my next enclosure soon. This seems to be the issue. I believe this hit it right on the nose and I thank you for your input. I would also like to thank everyone who actually gave me suggestions on how to approach this problem. Today, I placed my subwoofer inside another enclosure that belongs to a local member, swift. And all seems fine, the subwoofer showed no signs of stress and sounded great. So the conclusion to this is that, in MY application, I could NOT use a larger enclosure. Swift will begin building my next enclosure soon. Good find, I learned something new today myself about enclosures. Glad you got it worked out. Thanks, yes, I have learned how important of a role the enclosure plays. I hope to have a much better results now. Just to clear everything up, I have ALWAYS stand behind SSA and this fault is MY doing and I do apologize for any confusion. The subwoofer is in 100% working condition. The flex in your truck had me like glad to hear you have your issue ironed out.. now let's hope there is not damage... Was the scrapping/scratching noise present at all Sen? No, the scratching noise completely went away. I played a few songs off my ipod that I am familiar, one paticular song my T.I. that drops extremely low and all you could see was wonderful sub porn

thank you mark for the awsome vid.

Big thanks to Mark and his lovely wife and aaron for all there pics and vids so far . heres one mark sent today enjoy

Someone needs to wash the sand off his clam.

P99RS??? HOLY SHYT!!!!

TEST FITTING WITH THE OLD FALSE FLOOR TOP ON TEST FITTING WITH THE OLD FALSE FLOOR TOP ON TEST FITTING WITH THE OLD FALSE FLOOR TOP ON

All SSA drivers are shown power before leaving the build house to assure proper mechanical alignment and functional ablity. Just because we do not see it in person, doesn't not mean it doesn't not happen, I have personally seen these procedure done hundreds of times on our products coming off the line and have full trust in our build house's ability. That being said, some times things do happen and no one is perfect, please email us with your concerns and we can work it out and take care of you best through that channel. Thanks.

with 1 sub, yes, the dual 2, so it can be wired down to 1 ohm giving you the full 1500rms. but SSA woofers being efficient and that amp doing 900rms at 2 ohms and the icon being 1250, the 900watts would put less stress on the cars electrical system. it is up to you, but here is the diagram with the sub being wired to 2 ohms. hope it isnt confusing. edit: if you bought another you could wire to 1 ohm.... haha.

M3a is more like a 3,000w amp. lol. I'd say wait for the GCON's and 4 of those at 1ohm would be ok I think. Or, just get 3 ICON's lol.

Agreed, just because your amp can do that power doesn't mean that you have to use it. I wouldn't use more than 300 for a DCON, no need to. If I were you and not in too big of a hurry I'd wait for the GCON. GCON would be the way to go if your willing to wait like he said. If you still intend to push forward a smaller box will help power handling but far more plays into it than just the size of the box.

thats why i just do em myself...

!!!!!!!!!!!!

What is this better "substage" going to be? Hard to beat the Zcon.

It is based 100% on the cost to produce the sub -- I added ZERO dollars to cover my tooling investment in this driver (In the 5 digits dollar figure wise). Had I figured in tooling expenses and the 100s of hours of testing it would be $200+ easily. It is a pretty advanced driver in regards to assembly so MUCH more labor with spaced spiders, two triple joint rings, dual round lead wires, etc. All of these add up. I've built a few here at the shop for prototype testing and it takes me about 250% longer to build one than it does an SA-12 for reference. If you aren't in the market for a TOP of the line 8" subwoofer in terms of high bandwidth / low distortion output I would really suggest looking elsewhere -- I went all out on this design using no standard parts at all (except the dust cap). The only thing even CLOSE on the market is the JL Audio 8W7 and it is $400+ I am looking at making a third 8" in our line between the E8 v.2 and SA-8 v.2 to fill in the old price of the original SA-8

WOOOHOOOO!!! This build is finally starting to kick off!!! Did a lot of work this weekend pulling out all the rear trim panels from behind the front doors to the tailgate to install CLD and CCF behind it all. I also put some strips of CCF in spots where the plastic rubs and makes way too much noise. I also started on the doors, and will have pictures of them up soon, for now I got a few pics of the process in the back to put up. Again, due to the heat it's not a step by step photo shoot, but it should give an idea of the work involved. Here's a quick shot of the CLD and CCF. It's a roll of the old RaamMat BXT60 I've had for awhile and some of the RaamAudio peal and stick CCF. From behind the truck with everything tore out of the driver's side. And the process as I got pictures of it..... That's basically it until the process with the doors is complete. A note to anyone who's been thinking about installing sound deadening but haven't due to wondering whether or not it's worth it or not, don't short change yourselves. The difference it makes in the amount of road noise you hear, the squeaks and rattles from panels, and the overall sound of your music to your ears is well worth the time, effort and money it costs to do it. I took the Jimmy for a quick drive to test everything out, and with a couple of the worst gravel roads leading either direction away from my house I have a great test bed to find every little squeak, rattle and annoying noise a vehicle can possibly have. I heard pretty much nothing from the rear of the truck, at least not over the squeaks and rattles of the doors and dash. Even the noise of the gravel under the tires was lessened and with so much less noise the PG's have never sounded better or as loud. Now on to the doors and installation of the Bravox CS60K's!!!!

well if thats the case i want 4 FI logos on my subs