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these are also on their way thought this was a cool pic too.

Hope i covered everything. Try to use more puncuation, dont run on your sentances so much you will notice you will recieve more help. Use normal font sizes and stay away from bold unless you want to place emphasis on something. Not trying to be an ass just trying to help you out. Good luck and google can be a powerful tool to help answer many questions.

Honestly the DQXS is extreme overkill for your system, and it sounds like it's far above your knowledge level in terms of use. My personal suggestion would be to ditch it. It will be more of a burden than a benefit. And, unfortunately, there is no easy way to explain how to set the EQ bands. That unit has enough EQ bands that about the only way to use it meaningfully is with a quality measurement system to show you where the problems are & what needs to be done to correct them. Otherwise you're just throwing darts at a board. You could sit in your car for a week tweaking all of the various bands by ear and probably end up with no better sounding system than when you began. IMO you would be much further ahead improving the quality of your system design than anything you could accomplish with the DQXS. Decrease the number of speakers, improve the quality of the speakers and installation, simply the processing/processor chain, etc etc.

Close to half the vibration damping/noise mitigation threads on other forums are debates about using asphalt based materials as a vibration damper. I’ve spent way too much time during the last 5 years typing and re-typing responses to these questions. Let’s keep it in one place to reduce litter and redundancy. This topic was my introduction to aftermarket “sound deadening”. I had a noisy car, wanted to quiet it down and started to do research. This was 2005. Several respected “authorities” were vocal advocates for asphalt. Part of this came from the belief that products like Dynamat Xtreme were part of a conspiracy to fleece consumers. Part of it was the often repeated “fact” that roofing materials and vibration dampers sold specifically for aftermarket automotive use were exactly the same thing. One cost pennies per ft² and the other dollars so it was worth investigating. Some of you may remember that Sound Deadener Showdown used to be a testing and review site. Since I wasn’t able to find any conclusive answers on the forums, I decided to buy small quantities of every product I could. Two things were immediately apparent: Nobody had ever had their hands on all of these products at the same time or they would have seen the obvious differences. The people claiming that Dynamat Xtreme and roofing materials were exactly the same thing didn’t know what they were talking about. I discovered a few other things very quickly. Many sellers were making outrageous claims. Some were wildly overstating obvious physical characteristics like thickness and mass/area. Others were either claiming outright that their asphalt products were butyl or were using intentionally deceptive descriptions like “rubberized compound” to describe their adhesive layer. Nobody seemed to be drawing the right conclusion from sellers’ attempts to hide the fact that they were selling asphalt. For several years the argument was about durability. Asphalt had an unhappy tendency to melt or fall off. At the time, there were no reports of butyl adhesive failure – that had to wait a few years until one seller decided to re-purpose some low quality butyl roofing material. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out why this was happening. All of these materials are asphalt with some sort of rubber added to increase heat tolerance. The generally accepted melting point for these compounds is 180°F. That seemed high enough for use in a vehicle, so what was going on? Our perception of the heat these products are subjected to was wrong. We thought in terms of air temperature inside the vehicle, maybe 140°F-150°F? It turns out things are very different at the sheet metal. Park a car in the sun during the summer, south of the Mason-Dixon line and you can easily get to 180°F+. That explains immediate failures in hot climates. An insidious part of this problem is that many failures were reported during the second or third summer, many in fairly mild regions. The explanation was pretty simple. The rubber added to asphalt deteriorates over time when exposed to temperatures much lower than those required to melt the fresh material. As the rubber deteriorates, the melting temperature drops. Suddenly it doesn’t take much heat anymore. The durability question has been answered to my satisfaction. Many high profile asphalt devotees, including some who went to almost insane extremes to install the material “properly” have had their installations fail over the years. A few of the brave ones have come forward and made their results public. The pennies vs. dollars argument still nags. What if you plan to junk your vehicle after a few years (worse, plan to trade it in and don’t care what problem you are passing on)? Is asphalt a reasonable choice when durability isn’t a factor? Nope. There are two main reasons people believe they can substitute asphalt roofing materials for CLDs: They look alike – shiny on one side, black and gooey on the other. They don’t understand how a constrained layer vibration damper works. See: Caddy Shack, swimming pool scene for all you need to know about point 1. Point 2 needs more consideration. I used to believe that vibration dampers work by adding mass to a panel and lowering its resonant frequency below the audible range. This is completely wrong. They work through a fairly complex sequence of events that occur in the adhesive layer and between the adhesive layer and the constraining layer and substrate. I won’t go into the details here, please see: Vibration Damping By Ahid D. Nashif, David I. G. Jones, John Phillips Henderson The important point is that everything depends on the material property viscoelasticity. Basically this describes something that can be deformed and will then return to its original shape more slowly than it was deformed. The strains created during these events account for the conversion of vibration to heat that we’ve all heard about. Butyl adhesives formulated for vibration damping are viscoelastic. Asphalt isn’t – it doesn’t need to be to seal a roof. Asphalt adds mass to a panel. It may stiffen the panel, but since stiffening raises resonant frequency, the two mechanisms are offsetting and reduce effectiveness even further. Those who claim to have used it and had good results aren’t giving you the full picture. These claims can be better stated as: I used asphalt. It was better than nothing. I haven’t used a proper purpose designed vibration damper so I have no basis for comparison. It hasn’t failed yet. Sometimes the endorsement is explicitly stated: I used asphalt and it hasn’t fallen off. Not falling off is a pathetically low standard of performance. Testing I’ve done has convinced me that it takes between 6 and 10 times as much asphalt to achieve something approaching the same result you will get with a real vibration damper. This puts the pennies/dollars question on its head. Add the durability concerns and the huge amount of extra work required and the answer is pretty obvious. I’m sure some will want to argue the points I’ve made here. If that’s you, please stay away from “I used it and it worked for me”. That’s how we got into trouble in the first place and doesn’t make any more sense than concluding that cigarettes are good for you because your grandfather smoked a pack a day and lived to be 90. If you want to go there, please show us some evidence.

I guess it's time to post up the build log since I'm almost done with the wall. The build? 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser 12^3 wall tuned to 40Hz 2 RE MT 18" D1's 2 RD Audio D9's @5ohm each 1 DD C5b 4 Channel 5 Deka G31's Mike SInger 240amp alt To much 1/0 to talk about. Started by re-running ALL wire to behind where the wall will be. Ran the 1/0 out the side panel all fancy like. Started preparing for the wall. Then, it started. Got sides and baffle layers glued together and assembled. After all that, I silicone and braced it up. Got that handled, it was time to seal it off. And that's were I sit as of tonight, 4/10/2012. Not doing to bad.

well my instill is fully underway it's been put on hold and i've had some setbacks along the way but i think it will be worth the wait. no pic's or videos yet but i'll give you guys some info on the build. -2001 tahoe -new 145ampalternator -50f of kca 1/0 cable -big 3 -Kinetik HC2000 -amp brz2100d -4 15' d-con s1 subs-enclosure 20 c.f after port/sub/bracing displacement, over 210'' of port @ 28hz updates coming up real soon i'll have it bumpin next week.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/dcon.html Click the tab that says predesigned enclosures

well i have some 6x9 and 6 3/4 and two pairs of tweeters and the 6x9 and 6 3/4 lagg in sound quality the dqxs was a gift from my girlfriend for fathers day Perhaps this needs to be more clear. No fucking shit you are lacking in SQ. Your equipment choices do not go together at all. Throwing processing at the mess IS NOT going to help either. You should remove ALL your processors, get rid of your extra tweeters, get rid of your dash speakers, get rid of the rears, sell all of it and focus on building a front stage that will sound good. With what you have you will NOT get there. And no, from your posts it is very obvious to me that you cannot learn on the fly and need more help than you will be able to deal with considering your equipment list. Once you've eliminated all that extra stuff that is only making things worse we can finally start to help you. Seriously scrap all four of your "processors. To put this in perspective your amalgamation of processors is perhaps the worst combination of mess I've ever seen on any audio forum. You need to simplify things as you are in way over your head.

Anytime Jon. At least I know you don't have enough power to blow them! Rotfl

This is great, a DCON hair trick. I am sure you are the first to do this with the DCONs, nice work.

Tuned in but I thought you said you were doing a bunch of small subs and you sold the 18s

I did a number of different installs in mine, did not get to work on the mountaineers though. Anyway, not sure on your goals or budget, but if you want loud right out of the gate..... SPL > Four - 12" subs, firing up, enclosure top at the base of the window line, areo-ports or curfed port rear. Daily driving > Pair of 12" subs, firing rear, large port, low tuned, deep box pushed towards rear hatch. Front stage, there are a number of kick-pods available, or deaden the doors nicely and put a solid 5.25" in with an adapter plate for the stock cut out, and then go low on the A-pillar for tweeter mounting. The worst rattles are going to come from the rear hatch, rear quarters, front doors and a little on the hood. So I suggest emailing [email protected] and he will help you out with exactly with what you need, and nothing more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5I98OcegL0

it's in and playing the dcon's are a bad a$$ sub they get low and sound excellent doing it, i been pushing them hard and they don't let up. i'm not happy with the box i have now i think the subs have a lot more if i can get the box right, i'm going to use this one as a test box and try some different port placement and shrink the box volume a bit and see how it works out. this is a short vid of a small hair trick, i think i can do alot better with the right box

wtf video!!! http://youtu.be/T5I98OcegL0

9k out of a single m4a... suree

Just got a confirmation email, my toolmaker distro blocks shipped today also. I'm anxious to see them.

Enormis in harborcreek PA, May 12th at noon. Rockford fosgate sound lab comes and there is usually about 10 or so cars showing off.

There are some free designs in the store that will work for you.

Just kill the heat after you flip. The pan should retain enough to carmelize the other side and then slow and cool for the rest.

Ant even verified this, perhaps not ultra directly but there is a contract of some sort to deal with the AD fandango. It's the epitome of Ant though. Poor design, misunderstood, but argues about it. Really too bad because the rest of the products are stellar that Second Skin has.

Only meaningful spec there is mounting depth. You have no idea how flat or low the driver will play without the T/S parameters. Also look into the Dayton line of shallow sub at Parts Express.

Great first time! My ex got into it with me for while she has a pretty killer setup still. I'm sure with some work and more power you can squeeze a 145 out of that icon. Oh and on a side note smd should stand for suck meads dick that's about all the goes on over there.......

I gotta say these zcons take some serious abuse omg . hairtricks and demo bailouts for 3 hrs straight with 3-4k ea clamped power lol. we were at a crowd judge easter show in the hood and had a blast . ssa who bam

why does it seem that your not following the advice your just hoping. and typing?

well i had a few hours today to play with this pig and i fixed part of the baffle flex. i ran 5 runs of 2/0 to the back a week or so ago but only used three since i only had one alternator. i figured why not hook it all up to the one 350a alt. couldnt hurt right? old screws falling out of the wall. a little embarrising but it is what it is. well if you embarras me ill drill your ass. bring in the 5/16 spax lag bolts. now on to some testing. subs are starting to loosen up just as hair so my peak went down a hair. I know these are not termlab numbers so save it. either way it shows a gain. ive already shown it will do a 157+ officially Pretty much started off right where i left it. Now the goal is to put these numbers on a term lab at a show...Have a nice day

Couldn't agree more.

A few things. I wouldn't do a box that large with higher power woofers, they don't like it to much. Biggest thing, your port area. I'd go WAY up with it, to about 16^2-20^2 of port per cube. I would do 7^3 of air space with 20^2 per cube tuned to about 38Hz since you will be on the lower end of RMS on big woofers. And the large port area will allow the woofer to still drop low, while maintaining high output.

o.k got some pic's up. sorry for the wait been really busy the last few days. all the wiring is done i just need to clean the motor and to finish up a few things, the amp rack is also in and the amps are mounted. i'm just playing the components for now. subs won't be in tell this weekend fingers crossed

well just 1 amp for all 4 subs ????? im not trying to be a dick here but thats like trying to fit 50 people in a mini van atleast you need 1 amp per sub You are joking right? If he has S4 voice coils they wire to 1ohm.

The straight answer is to measure the areas you want to cover. Length * Width = Area. If the area you measure is >50sqft, then it's not enough. If the area you measure is <50sqft, then it's enough. One of our goals here is not just to answer questions, but to offer advice for achieving goals in the most efficient and effective manor. Simple questions don't always have simple answers. Asking the right questions in response will often lead to offering suggestions to improve results. Just because you covered your truck in a layer of CLD does not mean you are going to have the results you desire.

So this is how earth is supposed to blow up in 2012...

I don't know about that dude, I have my BL at 29ish Hz and she goes up to the highs and down to the lows without a problem. 100-20Hz sweep is gnarly sounding.