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The only "making a mountain out of a molehill" going on is the persistent bitching about the responses supposedly based on his post count. It has nothing to do with his post count, user status, length of membership, etc etc. Appropriate answers were given to the question posed, regardless of who asked the question. If he is so knowledgeable and experienced, and was apparently already planning on running more power than they're rated for anyways, then he should already have the knowledge and experience to have used the subwoofers in his situation without needing to even ask the question to start with. Having a specific power range, beyond the rated power handling of the driver, was and is completely unnecessary information and doesn't help him in the least, especially if he is as knowledgeable and experienced as he says. So, why ask to start with? His knowledge and experience should have been able to tell him when the drivers were experiencing stress once he began using them and he should have been able to set the system up accordingly. I ran 700w per side to my passive crossovers on my front stage (apparently I'm a "newb" since I was running passive instead of active?), I didn't have to post a question on an internet forum so someone could tell me how much power I could safely utilize. My knowledge and experience allowed me to setup the system appropriately.

Exactly people see that my status says "newbie" well im not i just dont use this forum much. But its cool i got a MB Quart 2k. Ive never blown a woofer. Ill be fine on that amp. Im not stupid. So yeah i think ill be just fine with my 2k and active set up. Oh what a "newb" is going active? Oh how did he know what that was? Ha ha anyway. Thanks SPL MAN. At least you understood what the question was. Didnt need to hear from people who dont own Lethal Injections but thanks for chiming in. It has nothing to do with the user status, everything to do with the nature of the question asked. You were given an accurate answer to the question you asked, just because it wasn't the answer you wanted doesn't make the answer wrong. It sounds like you were planning on running a certain level of power on the anyways, given your advanced knowledge and expertise......more power to you, no pun intended. Though you aren't going to hear a difference between 600w per driver and 900w per driver, so I'm not sure of the point. Unless you are chasing numbers on a meter there's no reason to run more power. And since you are so experienced & knowledgeable already you should have already understand how to properly set the system to not overdrive the speakers with a more powerful amplifier, so getting a specific answer giving a numerical power range shouldn't have been necessary for someone such as yourself. Running active has absolutely no correlation to someone's knowledge or experience level. There are hundreds of "newbs" running active who honestly have absolutely no business running active. Experience doesn't necessarily equate to knowledge. "Newb" is a relative term. Some people are newbs compared to you and me, we are the newbs compared to other people. As for knowing who's behind the user name....honestly, it doesn't matter who. An accurate answer is an accurate answer. If the answer was below your knowledge & experience level then what does that say about the question?

it really depends on your definition of sound quality. My brains likes odd things. I like my music very mid-bass heavy, while I will EQ out a lot of the midrange and boost higher frequencies. Most people who listen to my setups don't like them. Bass is quite a bit easier though. General consensus would place the IDMax in the top category for "SQ" drivers. We're talking optimal applications here. It's a very accurate driver. The Type R would be more relegated to a mid-level driver. It's versatile and can do many things well without really excelling in any one area. It's a good all purpose driver. The Sundown Z is a serious driver and is more geared towards high power competition. I would think of it as that Type R on steroids. Very versatile, but shines at getting stinking loud and putting up numbers. So the IDMax is like a Mercedes S Class. IT's a high dollar, high performance luxury machine. It's not a race car, but it can move and get serious if it needs to. It caters to a different crowd. The Type R would be a Camaro or Mustang. Readily available, stable platform. Does a lot of things well with good performance in all areas, but nothing spectacular. The Sundown would be a Lamborghini. You could drive it every day, but it won't always be ideal and sometimes get on your nerves, but when you want to put the hammer down, it's an animal.

And I like to put some money in Aaron's pocket, even though I know he doesn't get much.

you can make any sub "hit" lows. it is almost completely enclosure dependent. After seeing what SSA subs can do, I bet they will get lower than you think, and be loud doing it.

got something in the mail yesterday

Exactly people see that my status says "newbie" well im not i just dont use this forum much. But its cool i got a MB Quart 2k. Ive never blown a woofer. Ill be fine on that amp. Im not stupid. So yeah i think ill be just fine with my 2k and active set up. Oh what a "newb" is going active? Oh how did he know what that was? Ha ha anyway. Thanks SPL MAN. At least you understood what the question was. Didnt need to hear from people who dont own Lethal Injections but thanks for chiming in. Seriously? Why even ask the question then? If you have a fair amount of experience in car audio you knew the answer. Also, running an active setup is easy. Running it correctly is another thing.

These are the ones I like. No clue when you'll get them, then you come home from work one day and there is a surprise at your door step. How the fuck can someone complain about that? It's like finding money in an old coat.

My order status has been sitting on "awaiting shipment" for hours. Seriously, how fucking long does it take to box a driver up and ship the thing. Your company sucks!

You can not make a post like that with out details! Give it up, what did you get? A pair of 12" Gcons for myself and a 10" Gcon for my nephew.

Nope. If you don't want it there you have to cut it off

are you ??? i see you claim to know so much and have advice for everyone else.. how ever foolish it maybe... but have yet to post a single pic of your anything.......... What do you run Chris? I'm interested. What are you doing for your new enclosure Lantz?

progress on my kicks trying some paint but i might end up wrapping them later.... on second thought, wrapping the one on the right would be dam near impossible..

Tim (16k) will be loaning me 3 d3100's for our next upcoming show. We will be adding a 5k per ZCON at .5 ohms.. SHould be silly.

Sean is basically Capt. Overkill.

I've owned products from all three companies including the IdMax. With the recent changes I'd check out products from SSA or Sundown who have a great product with awesome customer service.

^Yes. And additionally, you can cause thermal failure of any driver truly rated at 600 watts with an amplifier that will produce a 600 watt sine wave. So in reality even saying a 600 watt amplifier would be safe is incorrect. The bottom line is that a particular driver has a set thermal limit. If you exceed that limit in any way you will cause failure. If you cannot figure this out than you will either continually blow drivers or severely have to cut back on your available power. And the whole "I run 2X RMS without issue" Blah Blah Blah is a crock of shit. Nobody runs 2-4 times the RMS rated power to a driver on a continuous basis; if you did it will fail... You may have amplifiers that are capable of producing many times the rated power of the driver, but you are never effectively transferring this power to the driver on any type of continuous basis .

So i guess you never heard there is no such thing as underpowering a subwoofer or think that a sub needs more than or double rms to reach its output. Nobody said it was something wrong with getting an amp that puts out more power than your sub is rated, it goes back to those factors i was talking about: music being dynamic, box size, etc. Reread and comprehend what is said, there are too many factors to decide what a sub can handle especially with the given information that was given. So if you have to ask and dont know what your doing, it would be safe to stick with rms ratings.

the box is like 1.5 cubes each and tuned way to high for my liking. the amp (temporary) in a massive audio 3k and yeah im planning on doing 1 [email protected] ohm untill i can afford a second one and then link them together 1.5 seem small. But I don't know what the Zcons like. You're going for 2-2.5 ft3 per sub ? What tuning ? I'd like to Shoot for 2.5each after all displacement. And for tuning I'm not sure. My single 15 zcon box was tuned at like 30hz and I LOVED it. I'm thinking about the same for these. I'm not to worried about numbers. I just like moving a shit ton of air and sounding good:) Cuz I know being tuned at 30hz, I can grab lowsss that most spl guys cant even think about

this is exactly what I'm going to have to do then...don't have another HU laying around. thx for your help man...i'll be sure to post up whatever was wrong when I find out - if I find out. lol

Slowly but surely. Lol. I always have my sub(s) for a while before installing. Idk y...

Same one I'm getting. Throwing it on a GCON FTW every time i see your name i think of the movie the sitter, when he enters the bar and jive talks .. fears no tears baby respect it dont neglect it

16k is letting me borrow some d3100's for a show, I will be running 1 PB5k at .5 ohms on each ZCON. should get nasty

had some time today to play with the aluminum blocks i picked up yesterday. heres what happened. My homeboy/workout partner Eric helping out. And voila! 24 2/0 holes with set screws. (not tapped yet) home depot didnt have the right pitch tap.