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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/2012 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Don't worry about watts. Turn the gain up until it sounds bad, then go down a bit. and that's it ! Ir's how I have always done it. Bass boost to 0, and remote on full. subsonic just under the tuning frequency of your box, and LPF under 100 Hz usually. Good luck
  2. Cus soundigital sucks. Glad you dumped it before it blew.
  3. 2 points
    I'm definitely going with SSA. The GCON is at the top of my list, but I'm not ruling out the XCON either
  4. You are incorrect sir. I'm never incorrect. The only things on planet Earth that can be sexy are women and cars.
  5. hey man are you coming by on friday? We'll be up at the shop working on the mustang.
  6. 1 point
    In response to O'scope: Sure. But then again, this only works at one frequency... As soon as you change frequency you change impedance and power changes. Then it is pointless...
  7. same wall for now.I was contemplating changing organizations that would be dash score. but things have turned around. I'll probably keep the center port for the time being Ah. I was expecting a different port orientation. You said you were trying something different. Has anything changed other than additional batteriers and bondo?
  8. I ran out of magic db paint. Going to have to get some more.
  9. If they spent less money on that Astro van and more on amp durability.....
  10. "I can understand about having millions of dollars. There's meaningful freedom that comes with that, but once you get much beyond that I have to tell you, it's the same hamburger." Bill Gates
  11. That is your first mistake right there. The second you can determine once you peak at the drivers.
  12. Well, lets face it, this project is never gonna be done. Here is a little something I have envisioned doing for a long time, and now the time has arrived. Yes'um. A plexi amp cover. I know. Been there, done that. I promise you, this will be cool. For those wondering, this is the blade I used. It worked well, no messy chips to clean up. It did get a bit hot though. O_o A couple more details cut out and a couple of holes drilled. After quite a bit of sanding, filing and a gallon of sweat later, this. And this. One in the dark. And a close up to prove that there is plexi-glass on the amp. My favorite shot. Tanks for looking.
  13. Looking good. Off to a great start with the front stage. Have you decided on your sub stage?
  14. 1 point
    Thanks for all the help everybody im going to order the xcon in a few days.
  15. Lookin Good !! i hate spade terminals too... nice to see those allen head terminals
  16. Just the idea of four super tweets makes my ears hurt.
  17. find the image link you want.... and put it like this in your sig: [ img ] picturelink [ /img ] with no spaces ^^ like he has that little ZCON banner there i want that but the gcon one where do i get the link? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/images/products/header-image-gcon-new.png
  18. hehe ya i know....i was thinking about getting a 2nd SD16K... but i cant wire them at .5 ohms each...safely that is.... and dont feel like paying for 4 recones lol... ive been reading the DC 9K and the AB1100.1 have the same board.... and i can find the AB amp for cheaper so ill go with those... plus i read the AB1100.1 is a Tank and i dont feel like going through the troubles when the SD amp blows lol.... lol ya me to. im sure sooner or later it will blow... and i dont wanna be the one to find out when lol.
  19. WHHHHHHAAAAA after how you defended that amp to the ends of the earth!!!>> the DC amps are great steve loves them. the abs are knows to be beast too .
  20. I'll get some up tonight. Nothing too photo worthy yet! Keep in mind this will be a nice sounding DD under 2000 RMS that I'm going to enter in the lowest SPL class I can get away with. Mainly just entering for fun and to showoff SSA but I'm sure I can hold my own in the lower power classes. Think efficiency!
  21. look into a AB1100.1
  22. Gcons kick some ass! Look forward to see if you go with them or not!
  23. They do... http://www.truenutrition.com/p-1124-rtd-ready-to-drink-50g-12-units.aspx?
  24. This is all I have done for now.
  25. 1 point
    Fix your ICON man. It shouldn't be hard, and you won't see a big difference in output by changing unless you plan on more power. I must disagree. I had an Icon 15" on a saz 1000 (1000watts rms) that I changed for an Xcon 15"in the same box : big change, no regret at all. and I loved the Icon ! You will love the Xcon even more. Don't need to upgrade anything. You can do it, but it's not a must.
  26. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBYv9r1KED4
  27. lol. You broke 158 with a pair of 18s and roughly 3 times the rated thermal power and want to get rid of them now... A recone(s) is going to be a fraction of the price of new sub(s).
  28. So I got some stuff out of the garage and started the re-installation of the amps, with a little spruce up on the side. Here is a little action pic. And with a little time and effort the new/old amps were in. Here is a tall and slender shot for those into them tall and slender. Tall and slender upside down for the kinky. Some cool blue light action I was able to get everything in just before a little rain came in. Up next a little test and tune. Thanks for watching.
  29. Bumper painted gloss black!
  30. Give us a call Monday 256-417-6658 for pricing and we can take payment either over the phone or through PayPal.
  31. It's not a female, nor a Ferarri, so it can't be sexy.
  32. peaked at 55hz... first burp of the night...outlaw in the kick: 158.9db music: 157.5db sealed on the dash: 157db on music:
  33. I know the wall added some weight to the car, but I think you'll find that as time goes on, the car will gradually start getting lighter and lighter as body panels, nuts & bolts fall off.
  34. Future plans are for 2 gcon 15's and future future plans are a wall of 4! haha (:<
  35. well the wall is done....for the most part... still needs to be touched up in some spots but i can do that later... still need to put back in the passanger seat. headliner. side panels in the front. and the alt im still waiting on.....o and i still need to hook up the amp but that shouldnt be too hard... i decided to round over the port like on jesus's blazer... batt switch: (need to paint screw heads white lol) back end: (amp not hooked up yet)
  36. 1 point
  37. front cover cut: well i couldnt get it to fit into the car as 1 piece so i had to cut it in half and put it in that way.... took me awhile to get it to fit right had to trim it up... cut the pieces for the batt switch box
  38. didnt get any work done today had to help my dad build a frame for his bed lol... back area painted all white: finally got my sheet of 3/4" mdf for the front cover hope to hook up the amp and mount it tomorrow..
  39. lol yup white and red are my colors thanks man i hope to crack/blow the windshield out.... cant wait to find out bought my switch from Jegs.... was like 70 bucks which is a little expensive... but you pay more for quality... the bish is heavy lol.... got more work done today.... took forever to clean the buss bars.... heres one cleaned to show the difference: got everything cleaned and wired up .... that no-ox stuff is sooo messy lol... but should be well worth it since none of the copper will oxidize: got the side panels painted: got the holes in the top of the batt box painted.... ill paint the rest of it when i get it screwed on: (hopefully tomorrow) heres the front all sealed up.... still need to be cleaned a little bit.... but once the front cover is on... i can put the stock side panels back on which will cover up the sides: Driver side: Pass side:
  40. That's funny since those are not US caps. The only company in the US who makes most of the components that would be in this amp is National Semiconductor and I guarantee you none of their parts are in this amp. They called a buildhouse, picked out a generic board and sink and had the BH engineers install components to meet their spec, and voila. Any of us can do it. You call up a company, tell them you want a 5K amp with .001% distortion at 4ohms that is stable to X ohms, draws X amount of current, etc. They build some protos, ship them to you, you test, agree or disagree, wait til they get everything right, pay them, and bam you have amps. You don't have to know a damn thing about amps, electronics or anything. All you need is money. It's pretty simple and has been done for quite some time, and some people have become quite popular doing this.

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