Leaderboard

The RMS rating has nothing whatsover to do with how much the sub needs or how much output it will have. The only, and I mean the only thing, the RMS rating tells you is how much power a subwoofer can take on a continuos basis. It tells you absolutelu nothing else... You need to model to see what enclosure size will optimize your power you already have, if you want to look at it that way. But that is kind of backwards. You should always model for the the most efficient enclsoure you can build (size wise) with the response you desire. Power should be the last thing you decide. If you do it the other way around, you are going about it the wrong way...

"Supertweeters" are a terrible idea in any situation. HLCD (actual car audio designed horns, none of the cheap pro audio crap) and 8"-10" pro audio mids is about the only real viable option.

An SSA exclusive! Hope you don't mind Steve.

selling one of my jl audio w7 10s here. M.I.N.T condition... doesnt get any better than this. has 0 scuffs, scrapes, scratches and coil is nice and shinny. 750rms/1500 peak MASSIVE fexcursion and AMAZING sound quality price is $260 shipped FIRMMM no trades unless you have a jl 1000/1 ( i will add accordingly) or a 300/4 + cash. thats it. a short video as well..

Thanks. If I could get the front stage in the suburban to sound like my home setup I'd be golden. I need you guys to come over for a movie night some time. Just to sit back and relax. Thanks. That would be awesome, and it'd give me a chance to hone in my fiber glassing skills. CadillacMatt has been coming over every once and a while. I sure he wouldn't mind giving some glassing tips, with all the experience he has. Let me know when your ready. Awesome, thanks bro, but nothing I ever do will ever look as good as the hottie in your avatar.

As stated above that was an installation/integration problem not a reality of the drivers. Definitely the case. There are a TON of great pro audio options. However in order to be "loud" they give up bandwidth and then confuse the people that seem to use them. The real problem is the mentality of those that buy them, not the drivers themselves. And what they are is crap. Just goes to show a good installation can even polish a turd.

pyle pro wave super tweets just get some PA mids and call it a day. That should match the ess que from your substage

Don't rule out a 450/4...I'd rather have one than 300/4 anyday.

thanks for posting the video. Very dramatic lol. Was a bad day at heatwave.Only did a 158.8 burp And a personal best streetbeat of 156.7

Well, what can I say, today I take a step towards a simpler life. Out are the ways of extravagant multi-way setups and complex mix of passive and active crossover networks. In, a simple, 2-way active front stage setup. How can this be, you say. Simple, my home setup is a simple 2 way setup and is just a treat to listen to. On top of that I'm taking in some of the pointers I got while at the Heatwave show. First the tweeters, and what a better way to step things up than with budget oriented tweeters. With a little help from my jasper jig, a hole saw and a drill I came up with these. A little wood filler, sanding and a little patients, this. A little mock-up action. Dang it, this would have been a perfect chance to do that Star-Trek hand gesture. Oh well, next time. Here is the little puck mounted on the a-pillar panel. Hard wiring tweeters for the win! Hope this doesn't come back to haunt me. O_o I wasn't sure how much wire I was going to need, so I used alot. The tweeter pucks are in. A shot from the 2nd row. From the passengers seat looking at the passenger side tweeter. From the passengers seat looking at the drivers side tweeter. From the drivers seat looking at the drivers side tweeter. From the drivers seat looking at the passenger side tweeter. The ppi components and kick panels are gone now. The tweeters are powered off the US Acoustics USB-2080, and are high passed at 1500Hz 24db/oct. For mids I'm using the Mpyre Audio 6-1/2's in the doors from 1500Hz down to 63Hz. The subs take over from 63Hz down to 25hz. The sound is good. I'm surprised the tweeters are okay playing this low. Granted they don't get ear piercing loud, but they do get loud enough. I'll be honest the subs overpower everything, but at moderate listening levels everything blends in well. The staging is now up high eye level. Before the highest the staging would get would be level with the radio. The centering is still questionable. Some times it sounds centered other times it pans towards the drivers side. Not much control over that with the MS-8. I'm not sure I want to go for the center channel dance. I might have to though. The mid-bass is a little lacking. I had to do quite a bit of eq to get it back, a ridiculous amount to be honest. For now it works. I think the next step is sealing up the doors and adding some deadener.

That was fast.

Viewing it is perfectly fine, just make sure no one catches you lol There can be no "catching" me. It just makes me want to fuck and there's a couple nice fucks around here.

I don't think anybody was bashing you. Just trying to point you in a better direction. There is a reason most people run 12v setups at 15.5, and uts not because they're to dumb to know otherwise like another member thinks. Trust me your amp does not "like" 18v better than 12v. It will however like reserve for daily driving and demos. Simple math says it should make more power on 18v vs 12v. I can't argue that but it hardly fit the goals I knew you to have.

I have ordered 4 subs from FI over the past 2 years and they arrived in pefect condition with wood on the top and bottom!! I am not sure whats going on in FI world these days but that looks bad. Nick took care of me during my process and emailed me often about the status of my subs.

Hell ya senchez u know im tuned in. cant wait to see u get loud!

Ok 35 Hz it is, will work on it.

I've built several sa12 boxes for myself. It's all a matter of preference but I found tuning to 35hz to work really well. Changing from 30 to 35hz I gained quite a bit of loudness and hits the 45-60hz range much better and very little change in low 30 to high 20hz output. I can tell a slight difference in the low lows but the output and bandwidth I gained everywhere else more than made up for it. Also being that you want to put well over rated power you may want to go a little smaller on volume.

The DCONs are great subs but the GCONs will be better for your application. The quote button is in the bottom right corner of each post.

I can also tell you the sa line isn't that great sealed. It isn't terrible until you hear it ported. Another vote for the gcon as well. May also consider Fi Q series. It is one of very few subs I thought sounded good sealed. And they don't require much airspace either.

Go with the gcon and add some poly fill. Should be fine in that box

it is an older model that they do not make any more, it was sloted above the SE and below the XXX much like the SX is today, but the SX is suposed to be a better driver all around, and some what louder <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thx NOW i know