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Good morning SSA.

Great, you don't need it. Great, then you haven't already wasted money on it. Don't. No problem, it wouldn't help you anyways. What? You set the output of the amplifier to 2V? They were telling you to set the input sensitivity to the 2V setting....not that that info is necessarily "correct" anyways. You would set it based on Ohms Law, if you were using the DMM method....which isn't necessary. But even then if you are using a 0db test tone you will end up unhappy with the results, more than likely. Best to just set it by ear. Neither, set it by ear. If you absolutely feel you must use a DMM to set the gain, then you would set it according to Ohms Law... sqrt(Power*Impedance) = Voltage But, see above. 200, or leave the DMM in the toolbox and set it by ear.

Because I ran a Q 15 and loved it, then stepped up to two Q 18's and loved those aswell. Even the day I ordered the Q's I wish I had stepped up and bought the SP4's. So I quickly sold those and bought what I wanted. With the 4in vc, low fs, high Xmax and big power handling I knew this is what I wanted. The Sp4's sound just as good as the Q line but doing in a MUCH stronger fashion. These subs are low end monsters and that was my goal. My truck does the same db at 28hz as it does at 40hz and will peak around 34, all within a 1db range

Stop reading morons posts on SMD. There has been a recent huge flux of misinformation regarding power and enclosure size as well as the effects and reality of impedance rise. This of course is not surprising considering the biggest rip off in car audio happens to be the completely useless DD-1

That's cool. Don't know details of your design, but the only other XBL tweeter I'm aware of measured extremely well. Not sure what my opinion is worth, but IMO you need to offer the individual drivers for sale

FI does not have speaks on the shelf, each and every one is hand build to order....

I am picking up a new Pioneer DEH-PRS80 tomorrow, subs, amp and headunit install will hopefully be done tomorrow by night fall.

The molds completed a few days ago and the first samples rolled out -- here are a few of the first look photos from our basket manufacturing company! I am super excited about the potential these will bring to out larger woofers. Once our new spiders, cones, surrounds, and spacers are all tooled we can really show off what these are capable of -- those parts should have completed samples as well soon too. These things carry some serious heft... the base plate that bolts to the motor is 9mm thick un-painted compared to 5mm on most 4 and 12-spokes and 8mm on the Ti-18 frames (add about 0.5mm for paint). They are the strongest frames that I am aware of ever to be produced. ----- 10" Model ----- 12" Model : ----- 15" Model :

I HIGHLY doubt that. It has to be built

Just to tickle Ryan1's addition: http://networkedblogs.com/ConZc

And the guy you spoke to was a tard

My memory does little to serve me at the moment, too early in the morning for my gears to be turning yet, so I can't remember how they're configured in your truck. The thing is, I know a guy from up near Chicago who has done several big setups in the Trailblazer he used to own and a Cherokee he's been using for builds as of late. He for a long time had an issue with loading inside the enclosure that would always destroy one sub. When he had the TB he had four 12" DD 9512's in a box below the window line and in a wall, and I can't recall exactly what the issue was but it caused a problem with those subs. When the TB got totaled in a traffic accident he got the Cherokee and built a huge wall for four SA-15's. The one in the top left corner would always blow, the spiders would shred and the VC came unwound on a few occasions. This issue was found to be a leak in the rear wall of the enclosure. Not sure if any of the above could apply to your situation, but it sure sounds familiar to me. Could be worth checking out.

Marinating my Galbi (korean short ribs) overnight for the grill tomorrow.. Should be delicious... Really simple marinated, Green onions, Soy sauce, brown sugar, and toasted sesame oil. first time having korean food in years.. so this should be a treat.

Don't go active. It's not a good plan for you at your current knowledge level. I know it's the new fad, and in the right hands it has definite advantages. But, not everybody has the right hands, and you don't yet. As I said before....work on maximizing your install first, work on increasing your knowledge in the mean time. Once you understand a proper installation and have gained some knowledge, then go active. There is FAR MORE to a quality sounding system than simply going active. A well installed passive setup will far exceed a poorly installed and poorly tuned active setup any day of the week. Now is not the time to jump into an active setup for someone in your position.

They are made for lines ABOVE the SA series -- so big... likely NS v.3 will be first test motor.

For reference, you generally don't want inductors on the same axis that close together. Ideally you would place them in different orientations with a fair amount of separation between them...ie. sit one up on it's side if the other is lying flat, and a few inches apart. This link explains the basics of why: http://www.parts-exp...r.html#inductor Other than that, looks like you're off to a good start.

.... Yo!

A few details 1) Terrible idea to buy a comp set and run it active. If you have the capability to setup an active system right you can buy WAY, WAy better drivers for less money. 2) Two sets of comps is flat out a terrible idea. If you are short on output there are MUCH better ways of achieving this 3) 2001 Tahoe is not the most friendly for an SQ setup. Terrible dash and the door mounts require a ton of work to get solid. Without some serious fab in the kicks staging is far from trivial. 4) "Keep up with the bass" is a seriously backwards statement. The easiest way to do this though is to turn up the LP on the subwoofer to include higher frequencies. Of course this defeats the staging and fidelity, but if you don't you will need SERIOUS cone area on your mids to play midbass. That being said I SERIOUSLY doubt you actually even want it to "keep up:

You don't want to waster your money doing multiple sets... Unless you're making a show car.... The rears are preference... I don't have any and no one in my Camry has complained that the sound wasn't heard... I am only running 1 - 15" Xcon sealed currently and I need to re-do my front stage as I am not happy with it.... But I'm not thinking of putting money where it isn't needed.... One set of tweeters and one set of mids is all "most" people need.

Iak September cookout went really good, about 35 folks came through, lasted around 7 hours or so. A ton of food and even more laughs. Officer Lundy came through, the folks who called on him had already left, so we talked briefly and shared a few laughs. Kinda hard to persue a sound ordinance vilotion report when no one is present with a cmplaint. Lol Looking forward to final the first weekend of October followed by our iak meet the second weekend, we will be doing a haunted house cruise that weekend. My oldest daughter, Samantha, will be turning 21 on the 28th. So that weekend will be busy too!

100% agree That is why my next sub will be an SSA one : hopefully a Zcon 15" with a new car ! Wait, we are not running that promotion. If we did: "New Car with every Zcon 15" we would be broke after one sale.

Cool bro, nice to see a South American here, I was born and raised in Guyana. Venezuela have some nice chicks ! .

How is this coming?