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Your over thinking it. Neither are going to be helpful. All music is all recorded at different levels, with varying dynamics, so inevitably some of it will be quieter or louder than others at the same volume setting on the head-unit, so you'll be finding yourself raising the volume or lowering it by a few notches for max listening. Correct? By that same token, think of what either the dd-1 or the o-scope is doing. Measuring some distortion at some reference level. Some reference level that is different than your music. So you could play it safe, and use a higher level, but then short change yourself on output, or do the opposite. So why bother with either? Use your ears, and listen for audible distortion. Once that occurs, turn it down some. Then use common sense when playing various music, as song A may sound fine at volume 21, but song B distorts at volume 19.

What is this? And then this..... Metered in the kick, outlaw. 51hz.

Hi I bought an Incriminator Audio I 10" about a month ago from SSA as a temporary sub while my two SSA Icon 15" subs were being built and WOW. For a little 300rms 10" this thing pounds, have about .75-1" of roof flex in my Dakota Crew Cab. Built a box I designed which is around 1.25 cubic feet net tuned to around 31hz. I've been beating the crap out of this thing with decaf songs, Young Jeezy etc and it sounds awesome, and is taking the abuse of around 400rms. Would definitely recommend this for a budget friendly sub. Bass is tight but still gets really low and loud. Hopefully this will help someone who's looking at them.

The samples arrived while I was out of town -- back now and on to the photos ! Weights : 10" 12-spoke : 1.7 lbs 10" Sundown : 4 lbs 12" 12-spoke : 2.3 lbs 12" Sundown : 5 lbs 15" 12-spoke : 3.4 lbs 15" Sundown : 7.9 lbs Not a finely calibrated scale so within a few tenths. * THICK rim -- no more cracked rim with over-tightened screws or with a super heavy motor. * THICK base -- no worries about bolts pulling through even with motors 2-3x heavier than we use now. ----- Still awaiting our new cones and surrounds to arrive... then we can do some building and show off what these can do ! ----- Mocked up on a motor with our new spacer ring... very similar to the Z v.3 18" spacer but the ID matches our new frame base and this one is a bit thicker to allow a bit more air flow as the new frames have more displacement potential. The same spacer works on all sizes 10/12/15 as well. * Inner air passage on spacer * Outer air passage * This is a 12" frame and motor mock-up; proportionately looks alot like the SA-8 v.2

Well then the DD-1 is even more useless. Steve himself on here said that would be a poor use for it. Conveniently that matches with the fact it isn't useful for anything. An oscope won't help you win comps either btw. First and foremost you need to learn to hear/smell and know when to turn things down.

I'm not entirely sure why so many people are so happy about throwing money away for a dd-1. Sort of like paying me money so I can spray paint a line from your doorstep to your car that way you don't get lost.

http://www.worldcommunitygrid.org/ Aaron donates his computer power to work on scientific computations. IE: computer is idle after 15 minutes, so it starts number crunching stuff for some specific project.

Maybe bring some to finals? ... gonna have ALOT of IAK members to feed!

Kerfing 101- UNDER CONSTRUCTION What is Kerfing? “Kerf” by definition means “width of a saw cut”. This is the width of the actual saw tooth itself as opposed to the width of the blade as a saw tooth flares out and away from a blade. “Kerfing” is a term that many woodworkers have adopted to define the process of making several cuts within a piece of wood to achieve the removal of material. Often this removal of material will allow one to then bend the wood stock making a nice professional and appealing curve that can be incorporated into the project. Kerfing and Car Audio: What can Kerfing do for you in your quest of car audio domination? Well first of all it is important to note that in any ported subwoofer box hard corners are the devil. They do not allow efficient air flow which can result in less output and more port noise. Kerfing your port will allow you to maximize efficiency and create the most non-turbulent flow for the air moving in and out of the enclosure. Secondly Kerfing can be used to make an enclosure or other part of your build more appealing to the eye. You could use it for corners of an amp rack, or to make a custom arm rest more smooth. Kerfing is a process you need to learn to take your builds to the next level. What you need: This is outlined in the video but you will need the following (* means you don’t HAVE to have it but it is recommended): Circular Saw (Or table saw but the process will differ from the video) Disclaimer: My Saw blade is 1/8” wide. I recommend the same width! T-Square (Or table saw fence) MDF Wood Glue Safety Glasses Tape Measure Marker/Pencil Clamps Fiberglass Resin* Fiberglass Chop Mat* Body Filler* Sand Paper* The steps: Watch the video! Once the kerfed section is made load it up with wood glue and clamp it in place. Finish with fiberglass resin and chop mat and for that added professional touch apply body filler to the area and sand! The Math: I go through the math in the video but in case you are having a hard time understanding this should help. Please note this is used for slot porting applications so when I reference “diameter” I am NOT talking about a circular port, I am talking about the curve of the kerf if you were to look at it along its cross section. See the photo below: Step 1: Determine the diameter of your curve. Note I said “Diameter NOT radius” if you have your radius just multiply it by 2 and you now have your diameter). Step 2: Find the circumference of a circle using this diameter. The equation is: Step 3: You should now have a value for your circumference. Take this value and divide by 4 for a 90 degree turn or 2 for a 180 degree turn, this will give you the “length of kerf”. Step 4: Record your value for the length of the kerf. This is how much material along your mdf “linearly” must be used to make your curved kerfed section. This is the value you want to “mark off’ for your kerf on the mdf. (Note that this method can also be used to find the “length” of this part of your port so that you can build your port to the target tuning length. Instead of using the diameter of your kerf arc, use the diameter of the arc that is the centerline of the port). Step 5: Now that you have marked off where your kerf will be on the mdf you are going to take your “length of kerf value” and divide it by 12. This will give you your length between cuts. Now in the video I show a trick for making these divisions perfect. That way if your value is something like .6384 you don’t have to guess on a tape measure. My method is also much faster as it doesn’t require this steps math. Once you have marked out all the distances between cuts you can proceed with cutting and making your kerfs! Other notes: These are other notes that have been brought up on other forums and I feel are helpful. I made the mistake of wearing gloves in the video. Never wear gloves with rotary tools! It is not recommended to apply screws in the kerfed section of the mdf, it will likely split, instead use clamps (or heavy objects) and wood glue. If you are blade in not 1/8 you will need to do some math to determine how many cuts to make. I generally remove an inch and a half of material, so if your blade is smaller, more cuts, wider, less cuts. Note that fewer cuts will lead to a rougher curve and more a smoother curve but with less strength. Pictures: Design of an enclosure using a Kerfed Port: Box with Kerfed Port: (Picture to come) Box with kerfed port and kerfed exit of port: (Picture to come) Made this video to show how to Kerf, enjoy!

Its been awhile since I had good pair of 18s, and I just ordered 2 FI BL 18s with cooling and flatwind. That was by far my best pair of subs I have owned in the past and decided to go back with what I have had the best luck with. Going in a 2012 scion xb

Might have to remind me before I go although this isn't something I'd forget. Funny since I had first heard about it only a month ago. Have you ever actually been to Japan?

about time steve. good job!

This is the most helpful post ive read on the DD-1, I was dumb and blew the money on one. Its got some uses but not many because music also has more distortion than a sine wave. I can set my gains with the DD1 on sine waves but as soon as I put on music to check it, its showing distortion. Only really thing ive liked it for is for testing songs to see which have a lot of inaudible distortion. Also makes you look more professional when you pull out it to tune someone's system. Although I just tune it by ear any ways. It can also show one's ignorance.

If you're not a technician/engineer and will only be using the scope to set your gains then the dd-1 will probably be a better choice for you. I have never used a scope or dd-1 to set my gains and have never had issues with killing my equipment because of it.

i need this

Wow Steve, this build is getting insane!

Feel like a kid the night before christmas waiting to hear this beast!

Everyone needs to bug David to come down for finals. He's got sand in his vagina & is afraid traveling will scratch & rub it raw.

Thanks for choosing SSA, and thanks for posting your IA review.

http://www.worldcommunitygrid.org/ Aaron donates his computer power to work on scientific computations. IE: computer is idle after 15 minutes, so it starts number crunching stuff for some specific project. Thanks. Since I cannot give money, this is the next best thing.

I'm back @ work this morning !

150dbs +, & below 30hz, that is sweet!

Your weird bro?

I ran 2 bl 18's in an expedition for over 2 years off 2 sundown 1500d's strapped and then changed to a sundown 3500d. Then I have ran seems like everything since then so I figured why not go back to what I was happy with at first

Figures. I turned down my street today coming from class, and two bitches be walking, and waving at me. I was tempted to walk over after parking, but figured they were jail bait. Jail bait no bueno.

I tried it, but my computer is too laggy. Fuck win7.

I believe the site says 3-4 weeks, I would wait the suggested time before contacting.

What about post-workout carbs and fats from that point of view ? Post work out should be the highest Glycemic Index (GI) carbs you can have. And protein. BCAA is nice too. Or glutamine. Skip the fat on that post work out meal though. Save fats for the other meals if possible.

Tuned in!

Weather looks to be on the cooler side.....mid/upper 50's for highs & overnight lows in the upper 30's/low 40's. Just a heads up, especially for Steve

For the most part, I use a pencil, paper and calculator. I know I can trust my own calculations.

What sort of off roading do you do? Mall parking lots have nasty pot holes.

think the 40's would be too big? those are 38's on it right now Are you even getting 12mpg? Just wondering. average 10.7MPG. thats another reason i'm going to do the Duramax diesel conversion, the extra power will be nice also. Will 10k even touch putting a Duramax in it? not likelly. it's quite a bit more than that, but i do get one more bonus from work that i'll be using since i quit being a boss. That won't be till the first quarter of next year though Don't waste your money, you work too hard for it.

And if you're not sure of ur skill set. I might even come out of retirement and build it for you.

If you haven't heard bullet tweeters they are really really f'ing loud. I personally can't handle one mounted in the front stage of a car.

i want something that i'll be able to listen to over the sub stage i have plannned and just for your average joe to hear and shit himself by mistaking clarity as sound quality. You understand where i'm getting? obnoxiously loud and clear "Pro" drivers. None of the three of us read pro audio that way. None of us will ever recommend a bullet tweeter in a 2 way. We also would like to understand the whole system and not just comment on a single driver. Chill's goals were rather obvious... The solution would be as well, but then mounting locations, processing and such all come into play.

I think we could manage it.

If SQ is the goal, I vote for the Icon.

We are retiring outside of the US. Our investments have provided us with the money we need to get the hell out of dodge. It is Italy, for us. The Tuscan countryside offers nice low cost living, a beautiful setting, and a slow pace that makes me smile... And the Italian women are beautiful, and not much is as sexy as hearing them speak Italian or broken English First thing that came to my mind:

i got the sub reconed today andf reinstalled in the wall. I paid for the registration of my two classes ill be competing in at finals. I may enter a third if things are going well. i have a trailer at my shop ready to roll. i borrowed my employees Ford to tow the Camaro up there since it has alot lower miles than my truck. Ill start testing with my termlab tomorrow.

went too a show this past weekend. burped from 24-31hz and all numbers were over 150 150.8 @ 28hz was my peak im really happy with how this wall came out

It won't matter because the people with 4 15's with only 200 inches of port cramed in a wall in a 4 door sedan will run their head about not hear any port noise. But you and I know the differance between hearing port noise and the correlation between port COMPRESSION and decreased spl, increased coil temperatures, and higher group delays. It just blows my mind that people spends thousands and thousands of dollars on equipment and won't spend 40 bucks on a book to learn how to apply the equipment.

If your box flexes at all it can cause issues. I suggest doing this: Go to lowes/HD and go to their nuts/bolts/washers section. They should have something for rubber stoppers. Get 2x 1" rubber stoppers. Then take a hand saw or something to cut it with and cut each one in half so you get a pair of 1/2" sections. Drill out screw holes in the rubber stoppers and install them underneath the amp feet. Tighten the screws just enough so that the rubber stopper begins to compress and squish outwards. Not only does it provide the amp with better cooling, it helps reduce a lot of the movement by acting like a cushion.

Well since you're going wall and add more cone area, you can tune higher and achieve nice lows. When I start the 4 18s in the jeep build, it's going to be 34-35hz tuning.

I already took care of him via Email, Neal.