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In this episode of "Car Audio Fabrication" I share the proper way to utilize T-Nuts in an install. The advantages of T Nuts are as follows: Screws can be removed several times if you need to access the inside of the enclosure with no worry of srtipping or degrading the thread quality (like what would occur with wood screws into wood)More secure mounting, they cannot be pulled loose from the mounting surface as occurs with wood screws.Other notes: Adding a dab of super glue before securing the t nut to the wood can prevent them from falling into the enclosure before installing. Using a size down from the shank of the t nut for your drill hole allows for a tighter squeeze on the nut. Hurricane nuts are also available which "turn" into the mounting surface rather than bite.I hope you guys enjoy! Discuss below and if you enjoy the content Subscribe! ~Mark

Lol nice choice..... I guess he didn't read the thread?

Get the Bc3500. If it's for daily, there's really no advantage in running 5500 vs 3500. I doubt you would hear a difference in output. The 3500 will give them plenty of work out and save you some cash. If it was comps then I would suggest the 5500.

What kinda nuts... T's Nuts!!

The sa sub has a great deal more linear excursion. A ported 8 never makes sense when you have room for a larger OD sub bc of port length. Due to the necessary port area for the given box volume an enclosure for an 8 almost always ends up being larger than an enclosure for a 10

Who holds the patent, if I may ask? JL After following the convo..and seeing this response. DOes this mean that the ONLY way the OP could get a refund in this situation is if he has a JL amp powering the woofer? Because the JL company owns the ONLY patent for proper amplifier design that should never be the cause in a subwoofer catching fire due to poorly filtered frequency? You may have followed the convo, but obviously did not read it. Go back an read it, then see if you still think this is a valid question.

You are the guy that buys the two small pepperoni pizzas for three bucks more than the large even though it is 15% less food. you are the 1 of the guys that scares away the potential new customer with your attitude problem

There isn't supposed to be versus threads at all actually. Why don't you understand this? Learn to contribute something worthwhile.

That's why it helps to research equipment before giving advice. Some amps have variable ssf and others are at a set frequency and slope

I agree. and not because its a bad amp, but on a typical install we never see what the amp is rated at due to our electrical and such. I also know the sub will handle the power if you are careful with it. Enjoy! great choice and welcome! So the general concensus is that bigger is better (while still staying within the optimal dimensions). Good to know. Measured the trunk last night, and determined that I have about 32" x 20" x 15" (Width / Depth / Height) to work with. I realize that I may not be able to get a full 3 cubes net out of this space, but I'll be happy as long as the box is within recommended spec's. I'd like the box to sit right up against the rear seat. To do so, the box can be no more than 32" wide, and no more than 15" tall. I have some leeway with the depth, but I'd prefer to stay at 20" or less, so that I still have some functional trunk space. Anybody want to take a whack at a basic ported box design? *Tuned to 31-32hz I can't really help you with box design as I only hand draw them myself, I suck as google sketch up and don't have any of the fancy programs. I can however tell you that a box that size should be able to get you plenty of airspace. 32 x 20 x 15 minus wood thickness (single 3/4" sheet all around) is 30.5 x 18.5 x 13.5. That is 4.40 cu/ft total internal volume. You'll need to subtract woofer displacement and port displacement from that but you should be able to easily get the air space you're after and then some. The 12" Gcon has a displacement of .15 cu/ft, so that leaves you with 4.25 cu/ft which is more than enough. I doubt your port will even take up a full cu/ft (likely much less than a cube) depending on the size you go with so you can probably make a smaller enclosure and still be at 3.0 cu/ft.

RF, no question.

It doesn't matter. As long at the filter is working it is perfectly fine. If that amp is 1,500 watts and has a 28 hertz 12db/octave it would only be giving the sub 375 watts at 20 hertz. No where enough to bottom the sub free air. The obvious next step would be to use a DMM and test tones to verify the filter is working.

Shh, don't let everyone know.

I am no expert but I'd bet that the suspension on the DD is not calculated at "one way" travel like most drivers.... Almost all their drivers are 66mm until you get to the 3500 series... I know they're both great companies but what are you going for just loud bass or great low end? And that means absolutely NOTHING. Glad you can do rudimentary math, but perhaps you should apply it. And still, single ported 8 is teh dumb. why don't you guys answer the question in the OP which sub??? you just want to argue some specs and talk about going ported or not LOL Stop being a moron. OP's thread doesn't at all follow the Terms & Conditions of the board he agreed to when joining. If it did, he'd have an answer. The real answer here is though that an 8" driver makes NO SENSE in his application so the correct answer is simple. Neither. Narrowing down which driver he should use requires more information.

And there is no way in hell the DD is 33mm one way linear. There is barely that much distance on the spider landing.

And that means absolutely NOTHING. Glad you can do rudimentary math, but perhaps you should apply it. And still, single ported 8 is teh dumb. so your input here is that xmax means NOTHING? Exactly. ANY single spec from the T/S is arbitrarily useless on its own. There is one thing that Xmax does mean though. Conventional drivers with large xmax generally sound worse than small xmax drivers. What's wrong with a single 8 ported?Design a box for one once and you will understand. A while back I built one as an example here. With the port and NO bracing it was larger than the box for a sealed 12" driver. Way worse response too.

A 10 would be louder because of greater cone area.... and with a galant you have a nice sized trunk but obviously don't think you want to take up the whole trunk or anything....

I am no expert but I'd bet that the suspension on the DD is not calculated at "one way" travel like most drivers.... Almost all their drivers are 66mm until you get to the 3500 series... I know they're both great companies but what are you going for just loud bass or great low end?

When people sending numerous messages from different avenues etc., about the same thing/order, people have to understand it takes even more time for me to keep everyone informed.

Yep, that's how i set it mechanically.. Same reason why the CC-1 is pointless too.. just need a DMM to set x-over points.

Im surprised something like this hasn't happened to me, I send 22-28 hz full tilt (with some clipping probably) through my dcons all the time... Dcons are just secretly beasts I guess haha.

to the forum!! You've made a fantastic choice on your sub and the RF amp should be a great match IMO. You're correct, D4 coils will be needed, wired in parallel, for a final 2 ohm load on the amp. As for the box specs, they're right HERE on the SSA site on the enclosure recommendations tab, but your thoughts of 2.5cuft NET tuned to 32hz is accurate and the sub should do very well with it. SSA's optimal recommendations are from 2.5cuft to 3cuft. Post up the dims and we can help you out with a basic design, no problem.

You will not see if a rectifier has failed..they typically do not burn up anything on the board because the amplifier is still 'working'..just not throwing AC out. The onlyw ay to tell is either a) hooking up a cheap speaker on it and seeing if it nukes it again, or b) look with an o-scope to see if you have any notch wave form coming out ..but it has to have a load on it to see this.

i know it's possible but wouldnt the amp be shut off or in protect by that time? At the very least, there would be no sound output, that's a given, but at the same time.. if the amp no longer works.. can't really blame the sub now can we, It would be in protect if it had that circuitry. Then it would cost more and these $4-500 2000 watt amplifiers just don't have that. And if they did, it would be the cheapest protection possible. There is a reason cheap products are cheap. Of course, there are also a lot of overpriced cheap products too. The industry is skarred with junk.

Really? Can you explain why please?

I'm order #1470/1471 that means I'm gonna b waiting till probly July :'( ah what to do till then now that my box is already done

Getting the top all screwed on. Also my stepdad's demo from his dealership. That Flex is pretty sickkk. Box all painted. Everything installed in the trunk Front view

reduces inductance and outside interference . Leave em twisted.

also the sundown 8" xmax is 27mm while the digital designs 8" xmax is 66mm

You are the guy that buys the two small pepperoni pizzas for three bucks more than the large even though it is 15% less food.Pathetically your analogy doesnt coincide with my previous posts. Wanna try again?