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You should understand it all before you play with it. You played with fire and got burned. Sell what you have, recoup some money, and start out again, slower and smarter. And don't ask people for money.

The Death Penalty is not the same as a 9500., sorry. Second, a 9500 would eventually fry on 6000 watts. It may be 3 seconds, it may be three years, every installation is different.

there are ways around having a small alternator , like having a large battery bank... hell at this point you have no where near an adequate battery bank. the only way your going to be able to run that kinda power on those subs is to burp it.. or play music for 30 seconds at a time. i honestly dont see why your crying so much.. 4 years of you trashing those subs. and your mad because they blew?

^^ This is exactly what I'm thinking. It's truly amazing they lasted as long as they did, that is if the new M3B's you keep mentioning were on them the entire time. If they weren't on those amps for the last three/four years then your answer should be self evident to anyone. You CAN'T expect ANY brand or model of sub to last forever when you exceed the manufacturer's specifications, period, which is why 99.9% say up front the warranty is void when you do so. Also, IMHO any manufacturer who claims you can run double rated power to their products without worry is very suspicious at the very least. Most of us have seen where someone was able to give 4x rated power to a sub for a fairly long period of time without much trouble and we've also seen where someone has blown a good 2kw sub with a lousy 500 watts. Speakers are dumb and they only do what you tell them to do in the environment you put them in. Both the extremes I just mentioned were those rare cases that come up from time to time. Technically speaking you can run any speaker with any amount of power, but at the same time once you exceed the speakers limits it's going to fail. That's just the way it is. It may happen very fast, it may take years, but it will certainly let you know (as yours have) when you've exceeded the limit that causes them to fail.

Absolutely 0 benefit in adding a few thousand watts.

shit UPS is worse !!! the worst lord they are bad, i worked there for a few years. i cant tell you how much shit i prolly fucked up.. and i was 1 of what a few million employees

Fi ships their woofers extremely well. You think packing peanuts would help? Lol.

Yep it's a BS line so they can make sure they're not responsible for the entire cost on the items shipped by them. I'm also certain that it's in some fine print somewhere and you agree to it by default as soon as you hand them the package that way they've always got everyone who ships through them by the short hairs.

You cannot run a pair of DP's on that kind of power. What kind of coils do you need to get? Well some that can handle that much power, and it won't be on a DP.

You have to recone the subs like I said. There is no other way around it. Don't put so much power to them next time.

Speakers blow from too much power or exceeding mechanical limits, if the coils are locked you gave them too much power.

Every enclosure I have built, I have the width of the port the same, before and after the L. I have never had any issues.

Dont worry about buying 2 sets of speakers, Ditch the rear speakers and spend more money on your front set.

.........................................................................you included no details at all? explain a little better.

What.cd Private torrent tracker.

Welcome! SSA makes some badass subs. I have 1 12" Zcon right now with a saz-2500 on it and people are in shock when I tell them it's just 1 12 lol they always say, "damn that's one 12, I thought there was at least 2" lol

They aren't ignoring emails, they receive an insane amount of emails.

That isn't Fi's fault, it is FedEx. Contact Fi, they may decide to fix it or they might have you make a shipping insurance claim. It will get fixed no matter what. Have no fear.

Send Nick an email nick@ficaraudio and he will get this taken care of.

Sundown was about 20 years late with their surround design, those have came and went as has most of the products on the car audio market. 20 Years ago there wasn't much if anything in regards to a frame or motor that can utilize the excursion provided by such a large surround geometry. I never claimed to invent the big surround. But we have tooled our own version, paired it with a frame that can handle what the surround allows (as well as a spider that can as well), and attached it to motors that can also drive the cone to high excursion levels. The surround geometry is also designed with even higher excursion linear motors that we have coming down the line in mind. Klippel testing of the units so far show a very linear CMS curve and real-world in-car testing has shown excellent LF output; which is what customers want.

This driver will perform nothing like an SA-8 v.2 ; aside from what the T/S spec tells you the frame design of the SA-8 v.2 allows a wider and more linear suspension. Not to down the product -- but it is a VERY different speaker than the SA-8 v.2 and they will not directly compete. The market for small ported box 8s is quite large ; typically customers use 2 or more of the drivers as a single driver ported box is, in fact, quite impractical (not impossible and not unheard of; just a bit impractical).

whoooo won

There are going to be a few factors other than replacing wire and an alternator to know why you're dimming. I'm sure giving this information would help out. This might be more extensive to some, but it'll help to answer the question. 1) The amp you use 2) The way the amp's gain is set 3) How are the sub(s) wired and to what ohm load 4) What batteries do you use and the amount if applicable 5) Was the alternator an upgrade or exact replacement. (helps to know amperage) 6) How well is your ground? 7) Are you grounded to the front battery or chassis? (If chassis did you sand the contact spot?)

You can go wrong with a SSA xcon!

Yep that sucks. If Fi determines it is their responsibility to honor a warranty they will issues you an RMA. Then you send the sub back in (you pay shipping both ways). My guess is probably another couple months till you get it back. From what I have been reading it may take a couple weeks till Fi comes to a determination.

these posts are terrible. without understanding his goals you cannot possibly begin to make suggestion. you're just looking for the quickest way to waste his money..

Gents, I'm thinking of selling my Crescendo BC2Ks and going to a Stetsom 6K5ES 2ohm version. I like that it will do gobs of power (7200 watts) on 13.8 volts. I usually do about 14.3/5 on my HO alt. I have dual runs of power/ground ran, 3 XS power D3400 batts, and the big 3 done. I think my electrical is close or near up to par to support it. My questions mainly regard reliability. If I get the 6K would I be safe running it full tilt? I read these things don't like voltage over 14.9/15 volts so I'd like to think I'm relatively ok there. Just looking for any input/suggestions. Thanks all Also Aaron do you have these in stock? Shoot me a PM por favor.

Due the last thread having serious loading issues and bogging down the server, we started this continuation of the original. Carry on....