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I've had my fair share of troubles from substance abuse, maybe some of you could take something away from reading this. I did. http://m.huffpost.com/us/entry/6506936

Who is Synergy Audio? Well, it seems they are a brick and mortar store based out of South Dakota that couldn't find anything up to their price to performance standards. So instead of "settling", they did it on their own and started their own line. This is the first of what I understand will be (3) size offerings. They are currently available in their storefront (obviously) and I believe 3 online stores including SSA and FB. Price - $400 Rated (14.4v) 4 ohm - 400w 2 ohm - 800w 1 ohm - 1,500w This heatsink... it reminds me of something. Something old school. Kicker Impulse, maybe? I can't put my finger on it. But the first thing I noticed was that it wasn't super heavy. It doesn't seem to have as much sink as some competitor offerings, or maybe I'm just used to hauling around a TFE for too long. Either way, my testing is pretty brutal since I do so many back to back and it got hot, but not like... hot. I'll spend some more time with it in a daily application and report back on that. "WFO" is the 2nd coolest name for an amp ever. I use that term all the time. I don't know if it's the same thing I use it for, but every time I see those letters, I think "Wide fuggin open". Lol. Solid 1/0 power and ground. 8awg speaker. Hex key set screws for those that like to overtighten shit like I do. Had a little trouble fitting oversized 1/0 in there, but that's nothing new. Plastic pots. That's ok as long as you don't adjust them with your pocketknife. Strappable. Came with a bass knob. I always mean to take pics of that thing but I forget. Sorry. I bet it's nice. You can see that the plastic end caps double as the mounting feet. You're kinda screwed if you break them. The feet on other amps are pretty wimpy but at least you could replace them if they get jacked. I'd suggest pan head screws and minimal torque when securing this guy. Guts. One little note here... the end caps have a little tab that help hold the backplate in place, but it makes reinstallation of said backplate nearly impossible without removing one of the end caps. Moral of the story... don't take the damn backplate off. On to the testing... My CRX. 300A Ohio Gen. (2) JuiceBox batts. All of this testing is resistive testing. For those not familiar with my testing, the voltage on the AMM-1 is the output. Unloaded. That's a lot of voltage for a 1.5k. Side by side pic to show the difference of one more click on the knob. We're totally fine at 50v at battery resting voltage (car off). 5 ohms resistive. That's 620w @ 5 ohms and 14.7v. 86% efficiency. Wait... isn't it rated for 400w @ 4 and 14.4? Anyway... 2.5 ohms resistive. 1,100w @ 2.5 ohms and 14.2v. Umm... I'm seeing a pattern here. 1 ohm resistive. 2,250w @ 1 ohm and 13.8v with 74% efficiency. Whaaa? One last test. This is sort of an "uncertified" run up to clipping at 1 ohm. Kidding me. This amp is a little beast. Somebody is messing with my head because this could easily be called a 2k. And a solid one at that. At $400, this should rocket right to the top of the list of anyone shopping with that budget. Easily places it alongside the AQ2200 or Crescendo BC2k... but cheaper than either. Durability is still untested, but 1 ohm resistive isn't exactly a walk in the park. And not to pick on the DC2k, but these numbers are comparable to/better than its dyno and the Synergy didn't need 14v batts to get there. Just sayin... T-Fade approved.

If it is the UK, it would likely be in pounds, they are worth 1.5x the US dollar... As far as THD, that is hard to use as a way to compare class D. If you look into into how a class D works it it is a bunch of really fast pulses that are varied and then filtered, so they inherently have more THD than almost any A/B... If I saw a THD rating of 1% on a class D I wouldn't even flinch, that would not be a good rating on A/B before clipping... Efficiency is very similar between amplifiers. They all have similar switching power supplies and output stage topology. Most of the biggest differences you will see advertised is subjective as it is hardly ever measured in a standardized way... BTW, I think I paid $400 for the last Md2d refurb in 2007... My brother is still using it to this day without issue...

Again, I am talking newer class D amps, you are talking vastly different topology... The older class A/B were extremely different. Output topology varied greatly from amp to amp, as did power supplies. Dampening was all over the place and greatly influenced driver control... The biggest sound difference you will hear with a current class D is having one that has enough power to not run out of gas at your chosen output level versus one that doesn't...

Then would look at a Fi sp4 series sub if you want a top rated U.S. built sub. http://store.ficaraudio.com/sp415/ http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/evil-15-sound-solutions-audio-15-3250w-evil-series-subwoofer.html

Then would look at a Fi sp4 series sub if you want a top rated U.S. built sub. http://store.ficaraudio.com/sp415/

Personally I would use an Icon over any other sub mentioned copper coil....smooth sound .....digs really REALLY low in a well designed enclosure I ran Xcons too , the 10" Icons literally destroyed the 15" Xcons for low end extension output with the same amplifier and the Icons were much more musical

Sound better in which way? Clarify and we can help you get the amp that will "sound better". A watt is a watt is a watt. An amp with weak components will peter out and not be putting out clean rated power. If you buy a Hifonics 2000watt amp and it will only do 1500watts clean power, you cant compare it to an underrated amp such as the Sundown thats putting out a solid clean 2000+watts. Of course the one will sound better, its putting out more clean watts. I am all for a violent sub that pressurizes the cabin. Just because a sub has a 2000watt rms rating does not mean it wont sound stellar on half that power. The enclosure plays a big part in this. Look up hoffmans iron law. Using the largest enclosure you can will net the most efficient setup (power wise), while still getting loud.

If budget is a concern, I'm surprised no one has suggested an icon and SCV 1500, then you would have money left to make sure your electrical is where it needs to be for the "let 'er rip" moments. If you are trying to run a 2000 watt amp, you need to be factoring in electrical upgrades to your budget. "A lot of watts even if I can't feed it properly" is a recipe for disaster. With that being said, the 4" coil probably isn't in your best interest at the moment. Sure it will take major abuse, but it will also take more power to get it moving. At the power level you are talking about here, a 3" coil will be just fine.

I would use a 15 xcon powered by a sq2200d amp with good electrical. But there are other combo's that would work well also. The key is good electrical to the amp. What it takes to do that for your mini van my cost you some money you don't have. There are a lot of ways to get what you want. Plus a good enclosure for the sub would be the most important. So pick your way to get there and then do it right the first time.

I wouldnt buy a subwoofer just because it has a 4 inch coil, thats like buying an 18" subwoofer just because it looks cool without knowing if it can fit in the car or even if it fits your goals. Not a fan of soundqubed subs but to each their own. With a budget of $1000, you have a lot of options.