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That would depend on placement. I'll be working on mine sometime next week and be providing some feedback.

Woot. Free business class uograde on ze ride home over the pond

Preliminary install on 2" of mdf ring. Now I just have to figure out how I want to make it look good. I might be trying my hand at fiberglass.

Why couldn't they be?? I've designed very successful enclosures for several members of the forum as well as dozens locally over the years and didn't charge a dime.

^^^^^ this, haha

I don't understand the theoretical (and impossible) analogy. Everything is related to the physical and electrical design of the driver and then the enclosure it is in. No one answered the OP's question yet, because there isn't an answer that relates sound to any one characteristic. He asked: which actually has a pretty easy answer. The more travel you ask for in your driver the worse it will sound. This is less pronounced in a sub as Doppler distortion and such aren't so disturbing at low frequencies. But in essence the only general thing I can say about excursion is that the more you use the worse the response. If he actually meant extension (ie, frequency range) and not excursion (which it doesn't look like if you read the whole paragraph) then you could also make the generalization that the more extension the less possible output or less quality output across the same range. That is a more broad generalization though and taken out of context won't always apply.

I had originally wanted a lower Fs, but the design changed, and I really liked the sound and performance. The Qts. worked out to be around where I was aiming, and they are a little more efficient then I had originally planned. Tweaks can always be made for the next run, but as they stand, they are very smooth and have no odd coloring or break up.

You already had your answer...

If you don't want to build another enclosure you aren't going to be able to use the information then anyway. It will take you multiple iterations to really dial things in. If you are serious about wanting the max output, get ready to build multiple enclosures not just one.

Before even starting with a mid you need to determine potential mounting locations. EVERYTHING is a compromise, no need to add more by deciding things without the background. Oh, and give up on keeping up with an 18". No way, no how that is going to happen in the midbass realm. Going to have a gap, no way around that if you are comparing to full tilt levels. Of course if you are like most other bassheads "keeping up" means hearing the words. In that case, it's easy.

This isn't one in particular you should read for your goals...

And Chill we still don't know your mounting locations. That HAS to be determined before even thinking about driver choice. I assume since you have the Goat now that it all may have changed, but we are waiting hear to help.

Easy to draw by hand, would take only a few minutes in Excel, and of course it is already built in to WinISD (as long as you pick a driver that is flat where you put the filter.

Not really exactly why I didn't

No

I already have a completely working system though...fuck 2 ways Running a DDC with that Vifa is not a working system, sure it plays music but that is about it.

Thanks, I will. Still looking for suggestions. Suggestions to fix what?

Thanks, I will. Still looking for suggestions. Suggestions to fix what?On what I should use with what. Should I get an amp that does more power for the mids? Which LOC's should I be using? I explaind all of this in the first post. Please re-read it. "No" is not helpful at all. And now you understand why I answered no. You have given us NOTHING to go on. If you think your system is perfect DO NOT change it at all. If it isn't perfect then we can't help unless you can describe what you want to fix.

Thanks, I will. Still looking for suggestions. Suggestions to fix what?On what I should use with what. Should I get an amp that does more power for the mids? Which LOC's should I be using? I explaind all of this in the first post. Please re-read it. "No" is not helpful at all. And now you understand why I answered no. You have given us NOTHING to go on. If you think your system is perfect DO NOT change it at all. If it isn't perfect then we can't help unless you can describe what you want to fix.I guess you can't read. Take a look at the first post again. ROFL, can you read your first paragraph err random pattern of unrelated sentences?

What is the best flavor of soda?

Then my question has exactly as much pertinence as yours.

why do you care, it is fucking retarded.

The article isn't worth reading, but that has something similar with your post. Those may be "genres" but they aren't of music. Really odd you joined to bump a 3 year old crap post.

The only audio card I can recommend for this sort of measurement is a DAL card. Last I checked they required a desktop and were $300. That being said, the whole goal isn't a good one. Really the only use for a mic in car audio is to find acoustic aberrations that you want to eq out with either physical changes or of course electronic filters. Trying to achieve a target frequency response is not something that is trivial, nor logical. If you are unsure the difference between octave analysis, 1/3 octave, and narrow band and the anomalies you will find in amplitude you are in over your head trying to use an "RTA". Even in just narrow band FFT analysis window block length has a huge influence. In general your ear hears in 1/3 octaves, but they are TERRIBLE for tuning. Remember the goal of filtering and eq is to remove crap. Fixing the response should be done with speaker choice, installation, mounting and so on.

What is your goal? ie, what are you trying to accomplish? A real measurement mic is $1000. You can surely use the non-calibrated Dayton, but you should also understand the differences and corrections required when using it in different sound fields and depending on your goals that may change what you need completely. If you just want to measure relative 1/24 octaves just use the onboard mic and whatever free ware. Make a change and see the relative difference. Just don't expect absolute values, but in reality absolute values will just cause you to do dumb things if you are measuring for the reasons I think you are...tell us though and I can give you better guidance.

Don't waste your money. Start with a usb Mic or your laptop and then when you don't understand the data ask. After you then find the weakness of the so cheapo Mic you can shop for a better one. The one you linked is garbage for the money.

Don't. Spend less and learn it will NOT help you do anything to buy that. Seriously a $5 usb Mic can a do everything you highlighted and until you realise what it doesn't spending more is stupid. I made measurements today with 120 measurement mics and enlightened a ton of people. Sure it was a few hundred thousand dollars worth of year but it was chosen for a particular purpose. Yours is child's play and a real Mic will be a waste of cash until you learn how to use it.