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Yep, correct on that one.

Suicide > cosplay....

Where is the crossover and tweeter located? I wouldnt just cut wires. . If your having to take out the crossover and tweeter anyway you mite as well just unhook the wires instead of cutting

You should be fine playing the other side, just tape the wires off. Probably would not hurt if you take a picture or labeled the wires, for reinstallation.

You could cut them but you might screw yourself on wire length later. Most have a cover the pops off and the wires just screw on. Awesome go on the warranty!!

They have to come off easy some how. Cut and you will hate the reinstall

Nice. Where are you putting the tweets? Dash on those aren't super up high friendly which is a bummer.

Something REALLY good off axis which usually also means you need a mid that can play high as tweets with a good off axis response can rarely dig deep. I used the lpg 25nfa in my Silverado and they worked pretty well.

Sounds like a mounting difficulty. Real easy to get the bottom end to sound good in that truck btw

I ran mine down to 40...

IB. To be fair 50hz was more common if I wanted reference level listening, but for my normal commute 40 was better.

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That tweeter has no balls.... Better question is how high can you hear? Easy test. Most of us that are more mature struggle to hear 15k at the end of the day...

In a real driver you won't notice the difference between metal and non. The LPG is seriously great off axis. Why are you only looking at SB stuff? I realize there is a misapplied boner on diyma, but they aren't anything special. I've been completely underwhelmed by all of their stuff. Sure it is priced interesting, but the little savings rarely makes up for the harmonic distortion or other general lack of clarity in their response. You can ignore the on axis response on plots completely. You will NEVER sit on axis. A great response on axis will therefore be completely pointless. The only thing you care about is the off. Having the 30 & 60 curves be similar would be helpful though as your left and right tweeters will be at severely different angles. I would also ignore a single point on the curve as that is easily adjusted with eq, but instead focus on the overall response. The less eq tapering you need to do the better. Large format in this case may not buy you much. Fundamentally a 3/4" tweeter will do what you need better than a 1" tweeter, but it will do this by sacrificing the bottom end. Conveniently you can choose a mid to fill in that bottom end, but having some flexibility is nice. I'd pick FR over flexibility though in this particular installation.

I had an 02. Kicks in that truck wouldn't work with my size 16's and sitting position, the dash is terrible for getting anything for a response so you are left with sails and some separation struggles or off axis like hell in the door. On a positive note, it is easy to get monster midbass from the doors.

PE uses the manufacturers plot, Zaph uses what he measures. I'd personally take the third party measurement over PE. There also may be methodology differences in the acquisition. It is far from trivial to do the measurements. Most people think you can just point a mic and boom, far from the case. If you have conflicted ones though and want input, throw links or plots up in your thread

Welcome to the world of compromise. I would ignore the 15-20k....but I also wouldn't stress that much about the off axis response of the mid, but I am a HUGE fan of mid-bass.

I don't like metal tweeters, but ran the LPG. I had all three of those as options in my house when I installed the LPG's. Doesn't mean you would feel the same way though. I am generally a Seas fan, but don't like the H1396.

Check all the wires first. Make sure they are tight. A temporary problem is rarely a driver. Then start by swapping the RCA. Does it follow the RCA or not? Then swap the amp channels, does it follow the swap or not? Don't rule out the crossover as well. Although if it is the crossover a visual inspection may show you the problem as it will be "wiring" related (ie loose solder joint or the like, puffy cap, etc).

Generally speaking everything that you have to do you could do without disconnecting the battery. However, beware that there is live power and if you ground out the power you will be sorry. It is always safer to remove the battery terminal. The other option of course is to just pull the fuse you have by the battery for your amp. This cuts the power to the amp as long as the key is in the off position. If it is in On position the blue/remote wire will still have power and grounding that out can be bad as well.

Touching the power wire to ground or vice versa. ie, short out the circuit.

I don't want to recommend you do it with the wires hot...but what you described is what I would do. There are a tons of possibilities of accidentally doing something though so I really have to recommend you pull the fuse or disconnect the neg terminal of the battery.

Normally it is just a 10mm, but not sure specifically on the Hyundai. Always ask for clarification, anything to help the learning is great!

Being direct is helpful in getting good answers.

Doors isnt very specific. Off axis, on, partly, bottom or top, type of car etc...