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Wasn't being rude. Well, wasn't my intention anyways. Just saying. My bad guys.

And yet again you can't read. I can see who gives a reputation post, you did. Someone else asked who would give me a negative rep for a post I made so I answered. You are obviously trying to stretch the truth for some unapparent reason none of us understand, but stop. The other major error in your post is that I also am not getting negative reps from anyone but you atm. I seriously don't care either way, but you are proving over and over trustworthy isn't a term you should use for yourself. We'd all get along better if you'd stop acting like a teenager with hormonal swings and instead just try to learn for once.

I'm not 100% sure about the crossovers in your exact set, but there is a very good chance the mid was playing 1000hz and 2500hz. 1000hz may actually play better out of the mid than the tweeter. It may be difficult to get to, but treat each component set as if it were two separate speakers. Listening to each one individually really does tell you a lot. I didn't understand this until I tried it myself. I spent hours researching tweeters one week as I was sure I needed new ones. Come to find out, after listening to each speaker individually, the sound I didn't like was actually a peak in the frequency response on my mids. A little eq and it was gone. We all have to start somewhere, sometimes diving in is the best way to learn.

Oh that's funny here. Well, confusing actually. I'm the first one on this thread to mention phase and Sean gets the awesome "thank you" ???

The fact that you know that is pathetic! Florida_Audio, when you were playing those test tones, were you playing one driver at a time? Just one tweeter by itself, not just left tweet and mid vs right tweet and mid. Can't seem to remember with all the bantering. If you haven't already done that, I'd take that route as having different things playing together can mask what you are tracking down.

Something you can try, and no, I'm not saying this works on every application. Proper phase is a must too. If you know what a proper phase sounds like, you can tell immediately when a vehicle you demo is out of phase. USACI has a great test CD to test phase. I've seen time when people changed the phase on their drivers to raise the stage. Usually changing the phase of the midrange / tweet out of phase with the midbass drivers. When I ran 2 way passive, my tweeters were out of phase with the lower drivers. Worked great !!! Now like I said, may work ... may not. All depends on application, hence the reason for asking if you have factory dash locations. Trial and error and see what happens. Good luck.

There are many excellent 6.5" midbass dirvers that would work well in car audio. My favorite as of now is the GR Research M130X. This is what i currently use. It costs $39/ea. I have ~400wrms on tap to each driver. They get loud and stay clean. Pro audio drivers are midrange drivers not midbass. Pro audio uses large cone subs for midbass. No need to use a ported midbass driver in a car, unless you really enjoy very challenging fabrication. Even then the cons outweigh the pros.

That is a Pandora's box question. Not trivial to pull off by any means and if you don't pull it off right the net effect can easily be a worse response. The PA portion of the question makes it even worse as 90% of the drivers on the market will be bad for the question at hand, but of course there are exceptions that could work. If they are too it would require quite the tweeter install to mate nicely as well. Ignore the recommended rms lol. Much more important to model it and understand what it means. You do reference midbass so yes there are tradeoffs, but understand them don't assume them. This is definitely the first step before even thinking about a ported front stage.

Lord, I didn't read 8's. No way, no how does that enclosure work. WAY too big. Ported 8's in general are a meh idea as the box ends up being nearly as large as if you used a much larger driver.

Stop thread dumping. Make a thread and I'll answer. Won't do it here.

Square it off in the back. You have to have even walls to really know what is happening. It will be easier to build squared off and the part behind the port will still be part of the box volume so the gains of the slant still exist.

There will be cancellation in EVERY install. Always. What you can hear and what you can solve are always the constraints. Time alignment doesn't cure cancellation either btw, but will change it potentially. I was going to recommend a long time ago in the thread to remove the tweeters and test them on a bench. My concern wtih the recommendation is that it is easy to destroy them if you play the wrong signal. If you do, play NOTHING below 2kHz to be safe and start at low levels to ramp up to what makes sense. Do both tweeters independently and you will know for sure if it is your tweeter.

You've never said one thing trustworthy so why would anyone trust you. You could start by explaining phase to us noobs.

Come on Billy, stop being a Sally. Teach us if you know something. Seems to me even you don't believe that otherwise you would respond differently. ****back on topic like the thread should stay**** And yes, the woofer tester will show you the differences in the drivers. Everything it does CAN be simulated with a multimeter, a frequency generator, a high accuracy resistor, an amplifier, and some random stuff around your house. Not hard to do, but not trivial either. Of course that will give you more than you need, but you do need Impedance at different frequencies. At some they will surely be similar/same at others not assuming of course the tweeter is bad. It is just a rather huge leap considering a week ago you didn't want to unplug your tweeters by yourself.

Of course you would, but that won't help. A rudimentary understanding of amplifiers would be useful here. That doesn't sound like thermal noise, but in the case it is a weird auralization of noise it is really easy to check. Just turn the gain down on the amplifier. If the noise goes away completely then it is the amp, if it doesn't it isn't. Considering your toils Florida_Audio I would try to turn the gain down first. That noise sounds like interference from something else however. The gain test will tell you if it is noise from the amp though. Let us know what you find.

Perhaps or perhaps not. Fixed it may not be. I have NEVER had a car where having both mids and both tweeters in phase (ie wired as described from the speaker manufacturer) sounded best. Trying to swap the +/- for all 4 of the drivers independently can yield monstrous benefits in the frequency response.

So yes, compare your midbass as well, but either do them INDEPENDENTLY (ie only Left or only right connected) or try all variations of phase.

Of course you can't. You seem to be confused thoroughly on everything audio. Google cancellation and don't just read but think for once. Eureka moment should happen, if not think harder.

Depends on where you disconnect them. If you take the wires off the crossover completely no need to tape, but of course when in doubt TAPE. I think you are seeing now why I would never put a crossover in the door. You should really compare all variations of polarity on the speakers. And yes I know this is a crapload of combinations, but when you find the right one it will be extremely noticeable.

So in other words you have no idea what phase is.

You forgot to google cancellation. Wiki knows more than you and that is uber sad. Feel free in your exuberance to try to explain differently though. There are many of us that are waiting to "learn" from you.

I'd check for a wire grounding between two terminals. or, ie just redo all the connections and make sure that they are all clean and tight. If the problem then still follows the tweet I'd send it in.

Measuring an impedance curve could provide insight, but resistance not so much. ie, an el cheapo multimeter won't do anything for you...

Advanced wont help. You could measure an impedance curve one note at a time...but something like a woofer tester would be way easier.

Trust me man you ain't gonna get no help from Shawn. And have you checked all your head unit settings if so sounds like a bad speaker and or crossover. If their willing to send you a new one I would give that a go and if that doesn't help its one more thing you can rule out. Buying high dollar equipment to test cheap blown speakers ain't gonna help you.

Ow trust me I tried that. If you will remember correctly I wasn't even in this conversation until he brought up my name and claimed I was giving him bad rep. Funny thing is I do but you can only give 20 a day and he is getting 30-40 a day so seems I'm not the only one who doesn't like his attitude.

Dude was giving me bad rep for being nice and saying I liked installs or ssa products so heck yes I'm gonna give it right back to him. Go look for yourself you will see. And to be fair I just hadn't commented on anything of his and he was still running his ?icksucker about me so yea I'm gonna do to him what he was already doing to me. Go and find one post where I have had anything but nice things to say about anyone or anything except this ahole you want find any.

Damn you Craigslist, stop tempting me. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/boa/5707176961.html If it didn't have that weird blue in it or had a 200 Vrod on it I'd be screwed.

Cheap BT stuff is useless. Scantool and OBDwi. Ftmfw. Of course it depends on what codes you need to pull. I have the scantool and hp tuners connected at all times

That would also be a good way to see if you have any frequency cancelation, which I doudt you do, but never hurts to check. If your loosing certain frequency's when both speakers are playing, you know you have a problem. Out of the probably 20+ systems I have had, I only ever noticed it once, and it was plain as day, one side sounded fine then sure enough as soon as I played both, I lost the higher frequency's. Little bit of time alignment took care of it.

He hasnt stopped yet so i doubt he will as long as y'all keep letting him do it.