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That is the correct list price, the price was not raised. You may find it cheaper other places but you will not find a better company to purchase from then SSA. Aaron, Mark, and Josh go above and beyond to help out the customers in any way possible.

The only reason I have been able to survive this hotel is my alclairs. The neighbors couldn't hear a thing matter how loud I had the double penetration midget POV interracial hardcore stepsister big boon small boon BDSM anal donkey show. 12/10 would custom mold IEM again.

The Brazilian amps use a different tech where the voltage is jumped way up, meaning the current goes down. Brazilian amps (on average) are more efficient this way and they need much less heat sink and internal parts (capacitance) making them much cheaper to build and smaller in size. On the other side of things, they are very sensitive to voltage fluctuation, tend to be noisy, usually run fans, and seem to have a little lower reliability record as they are usually not at all abuse tolerant. Korean/Chinese amps tend to be over built, very durable, usually don't need to run fans, more abuse tolerant, and are not very voltage sensitive. As on the other side of things, they are less efficient by the design, much more expensive due to far more heat sink and caps needed, and much larger in foot print. In the mass market here in the USA, customers are getting younger on average as the watts per dollar gets less. So that means there are more people who are much less experiences who are now able to buy larger/more powerful amplifiers. That lack of experience (and probably electrical system back bone to support said big power amps), leads to much more abuse on the amplifiers and voltage fluctuation. Adding up to a market that is best served by Korean/Chinese style amplifiers, which kind of points the Brazilian style amplifiers to the more experienced people who have stronger electrical systems. Shout out to Mike Dioguardo for the refresher on Brazilian amps.

There is no price tweaking or raising. The unopened new in box unit has always been $500, as it is listed on the SSA store. We are offering $100 off these few that are "open box" units never powered up. So that means they are $400. I guess I am not sure where the disconnect or confusion is.

Gotta have his Yeezus

I know why Sean loves Chicago... It's where Kanye is from!!! So obvious.

Speaking of Hawaii, I just booked a 10 day trip for Christmas week!!! Now to decide what to do when we get there. The agreement is no Christmas presents in exchange for the trip. What's not to like About that?

Your poor Chinese mom

You watching the men's diving?

Aside from just preventing panel vibration, This will also focus all the sound into the cabin. Which will help improve the frequency response by stopping destructive wave interference, by stopping any sound from going between the door and door panel. I will add even with a full door treatment, the foam ring is still needed. so is a great place to start, and you can improve as need from there. You will learn the most seeing the effects of each adjustment individually. Will also keep things cost effective by only doing what is needed in YOUR particular car, to your satisfactory!

Installing the foam in between the door panel and door will mimic the same affect your finger has, only it will be applying pressure from the backside. Everything has a resonant frequency, at which it will vibrate uncontrollably. By placing your finger or foam at that point in the door panel, you are in essence creating two separate panels that require more inertia to reach the same loudness of vibration you have now. The door panel still resonates, just at a different frequency and hopefully lower amplitude. You will never eliminate all the vibration noise, the goal is to lower it below audible levels. In other words don't overthink the sound deadening, just quiet each rattle as you find it. That said, my car I'm working on now, I gave the doors the full treatment before even installing the mids.

CLD - turns vibration into heat, ie it helps reduce panel generated noise MLV - Mass Loaded Vinyl -> is a mass barrier. Acoustics can only be stopped by mass. The more mass the better the barrier. MLV needs complete coverage otherwise sound will "leak" around it. It is by far the best mechanism for reducing road noise. Case and point my E34 M5 had MLV over the whole floor. CCF - Closed cell foam: stops buzzing/rubbing and is a good mechanism for decoupling the MLV As for evening things out. For BSR (buzz, squeak, rattle) there is only a need to treat what makes noise. That being said if something does it on one side the likely hood of it starting on the other is higher than the odds of you winning the lottery.

Depends on what you can find locally. 1/4" or so is fine. Just want something soft between buzzing points. For rattles any which way to apply it is fine. Glue, Velcro, Tape, just need it to be in between what buzzes. By deadener I meant CLD. Constrained Layer Damper which turns vibration energy in your panels into heat. Metal is your target, but if you are flopping plastic it can be a cure but there are plenty of other simple cures for that too. Go to Sound Deadener Showdown and read some install hints. Will expedite your learning WAY faster than any forum conversation.

It doesn't matter, just use what sounds best. That is the trouble with playing music in a cabin, it doesn't behave like it would in a free field environment. ...but yes when you flip the wires twice it is back to normal.

Indeed. I bought spare replacement F1 Status tweets brand new for $30/piece which when you realize the MSRP was $4000 for the set it shows what you are buying with name brand gear. They better honor the warranty...

Not saying I recommend you do that, but I personally would. Hell you need it out to send it in anyways.

Be careful with your ears! It is the only sense we have that is best the day we are born. Test bench in this case meant just hooking it up to a frequency source and an amplifier.

And yet again you can't read. I can see who gives a reputation post, you did. Someone else asked who would give me a negative rep for a post I made so I answered. You are obviously trying to stretch the truth for some unapparent reason none of us understand, but stop. The other major error in your post is that I also am not getting negative reps from anyone but you atm. I seriously don't care either way, but you are proving over and over trustworthy isn't a term you should use for yourself. We'd all get along better if you'd stop acting like a teenager with hormonal swings and instead just try to learn for once.

I'm not 100% sure about the crossovers in your exact set, but there is a very good chance the mid was playing 1000hz and 2500hz. 1000hz may actually play better out of the mid than the tweeter. It may be difficult to get to, but treat each component set as if it were two separate speakers. Listening to each one individually really does tell you a lot. I didn't understand this until I tried it myself. I spent hours researching tweeters one week as I was sure I needed new ones. Come to find out, after listening to each speaker individually, the sound I didn't like was actually a peak in the frequency response on my mids. A little eq and it was gone. We all have to start somewhere, sometimes diving in is the best way to learn.

whats a woofer tester? and i thought u said a cheap multimeter wont work? so how would i test one note at a time? test tones? around how much should i expect to pay for a multimeter that can do this? thanks! edit: just looked up woofer tester and these things look expensive? at least $100? and i would have to completely remove the speakers to test each individually? wow? im trying to get help. and m5 is really nice enough to spend time and answer my questions. please can you stop these petty comments. contribute something positive or go elsewhere

So in other words you have no idea what phase is.

Of course you can't. You seem to be confused thoroughly on everything audio. Google cancellation and don't just read but think for once. Eureka moment should happen, if not think harder.

Perhaps or perhaps not. Fixed it may not be. I have NEVER had a car where having both mids and both tweeters in phase (ie wired as described from the speaker manufacturer) sounded best. Trying to swap the +/- for all 4 of the drivers independently can yield monstrous benefits in the frequency response.

Multimeter checks resistance and voltage, not impedance. It can be helpful in trouble shooting but let's start with your ear. Play a 2500Hz sine wave on your stereo (Funcgen on your phone or other wave generators work). See how that sounds between the two tweeters. When something follows the driver, I'd expect it but your description of what has happened is a bit hard to follow. Using tones will help highlight the differences.

Dude, you are set. Take your time, especially with the screwdriver near the speaker. Mucho important. If it where me, I would start by removing what you need to gain access. Then inspect the wiring. It is possible you will find a pinched or partially sliced wire. If not that, then I would plan on swapping and testing the tweeter and crossovers next. Would suck to get the new one and have the same problem. Testing will set your mind at ease, one way or the other. You will be confident in knowing what to do next. The pic suggestion would be to reference how the wires are hooked up. If there are connectors like the ones in the pic, then taking a pic might not help much. But there may be a white line on one wire, in each set. In which case reference from that. One way or the other, just make sure you are comfortable knowing where the wires hook back up, BEFORE disconnecting. Label them, etc.

It still could make contact with each other and or metal somewhere if you just cut it. Make sure you tape any wires that are not connected to anything on one end

Always good to have some extra electrical tape around. And its cheap

Being direct is helpful in getting good answers.

I don't want to recommend you do it with the wires hot...but what you described is what I would do. There are a tons of possibilities of accidentally doing something though so I really have to recommend you pull the fuse or disconnect the neg terminal of the battery.

Half the time it's not the buildhouse but the companies who will choose between higher quality parts vs lower quality parts to put in their amps to control cost.

Just cut the end of the wire off so there is no metal sticking out of the coating and you want even have to tape it. You can always take off some coating when you go to wire it back up.

You say I act like a teen but you where the one who got bent out of shape because I didn't take your opinion as fact. And it isn't just me you are a pucking smartass to almost anyone who comes on here. Hell I was reading a old post where you mouthed off to tony D'Amore and that guy is a engineer so that says a lot about you. And as far as disliking post you where giving me bad rep for liking a ssa product so it's only fair I give it right back. I think the problem is your German you guys think yourself better then everyone but we all know what nazi's really are.

Honestly that just sounds like cheap amps with a huge noise floor. I some how doudt it's the alpine I have used their stuff for years and always got great sound from them. I did have one go bad after 11 years and about 4 vehicles but even it still played and sounded good all but the CD player that stopped reading disks which might have just been dirty from a decade of dusty mountain roads. I would try by passing those NVX amps and hook one directly to the head unit and see how it sounds.

Could the wires maybe be backwards on the crossover?

Yea then it does sound like the amp though. I would try a tweet on your head unit and see if it still sounds bad if it does you know it's the tweeters and not the amp but honestly it sounds just like a cheap amp turned up to high. I hate that for you I know I always hate when I have system problems is so frustrating. Usually I have to just step back and think about the problem for a while then I can figure it out. Good luck.

Can't see how reversing the polarity and running the speaker backwards is gonna help the sound in a small car.

I know what phase is smartass I'm just saying in a car audio environment I don't see how running all your speakers out of phase is going to help anything. I'm almost positive he is getting no cancelation from speakers that are at different distances from his ears how could he.

What are you running in that M5 a house stereo? You got 5.1 Dolby surround in your Saab?

Trust me man you ain't gonna get no help from Shawn. And have you checked all your head unit settings if so sounds like a bad speaker and or crossover. If their willing to send you a new one I would give that a go and if that doesn't help its one more thing you can rule out. Buying high dollar equipment to test cheap blown speakers ain't gonna help you.

Ow trust me I tried that. If you will remember correctly I wasn't even in this conversation until he brought up my name and claimed I was giving him bad rep. Funny thing is I do but you can only give 20 a day and he is getting 30-40 a day so seems I'm not the only one who doesn't like his attitude.

Dude was giving me bad rep for being nice and saying I liked installs or ssa products so heck yes I'm gonna give it right back to him. Go look for yourself you will see. And to be fair I just hadn't commented on anything of his and he was still running his ?icksucker about me so yea I'm gonna do to him what he was already doing to me. Go and find one post where I have had anything but nice things to say about anyone or anything except this ahole you want find any.

There is no better. Every install is different. Plain and simple. Now for high voltage, Brazillian will be better as I dont think the other companies make them.

Definitely no relation to the location, but to the ones who specify the amps. Tons of great amps made everywhere and tons of crap.

The truth to the rumors are, they are subjective opinion. Take them with a grain of salt as they are someone else's opinion, not the gospel. The fact is there is no magic components that make one amp better than another, or one magical source where the best are made. The quality and performance of an amp, are a product of using higher end components in the internal of the amp. To answer your next question, yes they send high end components to all build houses. No it does not matter where the components are built, as long as they used adequate material and are built to specs. It is the customer that chooses the inside components of the amp, not the build house. A hypothetical example would be sundown having to switch to a build house in Brazil (hypothetically all the Korean factories are shut down lol). Sundown would send them the same blueprint the othe factory used, and the amp would perform the same. Why you may ask. Because it is the level of components used to build the amp, not a magical location. So reality is whichever amp has the better components and design, will perform better. Period.

Funny thing is I was comparing prices and sonic electronics and ssa where exactly the same except this amp which now is a $100 more all of a sudden. But like I said it's a perfectly fine amp it's not like opening the box changed anything so I was just curious why they didn't just leave the price as is and sell it. And I agree Arron and mark are great at helping people and selling this stuff as cheap as anyone I just can't figure out why the need to juke the price on a open box amp.

Everybody hear answered your questions and we all do as long as they are able to be answered. You just cant stop with the pettiness, even when a thread is on the right track you always find a way to derail it with nonsense. Why keep asking questions if nobody anwers them?

Couldn't help but notice the price was raised by a $100 to offset the $100 discount which makes it the exact same price as before, which is fine since it's new and only been used to take pics, but why the need to make it look like a deal when it reality, it's the exact same price as before, or am I missing something here? And I'm not trying to be a ?ick just curious?