Leaderboard

So the install was not ideal then...

187 Series 10 Sealed .5 cubes - 1.0 cubes Ported 1.4 cubes - 2 cubes, 15 - 20 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz 187 Series 12 Sealed 1.0 cubes - 1.4 cubes Ported 2 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 20 - 30 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz 187 Series 15 Sealed 1.4 cubes - 2.0 cubes Ported 2.5 cubes - 3.5 cubes, 30 - 45 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Lethal Injection Series 10 Sealed .6 cubes - 1.0 cubes Ported .9 cubes - 1.5 cubes, 12 - 25 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Average: 1.25 cubes, 18 inches, 28-35 Hz Lethal Injection Series 12 Sealed .8 cubes - 1.4 cubes Ported 1.75 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 25 - 40 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Average: 2.00 cubes, 30 inches, 28-35 Hz Lethal Injection Series 15 Sealed 1.5 cubes - 2.0 cubes Ported 3.0 cubes - 4 cubes, 40 - 60 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Average: 3.5 cubes, 50 inches, 28-35 Hz Death Row Series 12 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 1.8 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 20 - 48 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 2.20 cubes, 32 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Row Series 15 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 2.75 cubes - 4.0 cubes, 36 - 64 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 3.25 cubes, 50 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Row Series 18 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 5.0 cubes - 8.0 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 12 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 1.8 cubes - 3.0 cubes, 20 - 48 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 2.5 cubes, 35 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 15 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 3.0 cubes - 5.0 cubes, 36 - 80 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 4.0 cubes, 55 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 18 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 5.0 cubes - 7.5 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 21 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 7.5 cubes - 10.0 cubes, 90 - 160 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 8.5 cubes, 120 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 12 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 1.8 cubes - 3.0 cubes, 20 - 48 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 2.5 cubes, 35 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 15 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 3.0 cubes - 5.0 cubes, 36 - 80 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 4.0 cubes, 55 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 18 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 5.0 cubes - 7.5 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 21 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 7.5 cubes - 10.0 cubes, 90 - 160 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 8.5 cubes, 120 inches, 32-37 Hz

I hope everyone understands, the Evil6.5 is not a rebadge/copy or a basic car audio or PA style driver. They are MY approach to a sound quality mid that is flexible for both home and car, that can hang with drivers double the price.

That is awesome to hear!

And here is exactly what I'm talking about. ^ He always has to toss in the little insult "uneducated", of course we where uneducated we where kids, where you born with a PHD nope you where not. Let me ask you a question M5 can you take a blue print and build a bridge from the river bottom up because I can and does it make you ignorant because you don't hold a degree in every field out there like bridge design? Now would I be polite calling you ignorant because of this fact no I wouldn't cause nobody knows everything unless he walked on water and is named Jesus.

You left out the word uneducated in front of the kids. I competed with home audio drivers in the 80's. As for your last question about audio shops, that answer is simple. They are typically full of uneducated people who have zero idea about audio and are paid to make a quick sale and not actually help a customer.

nice work Neal.

You can be petty and mark me negative all you want, you need grow up. Exactly what I suspected, no proper install so what do you expect?

All final inspections have been completed! It is nice to be complimented by the code guys for all my hard work and being transparent on every inspection.

That is because the Canadians don't give a shit. Otherwise the Polish would be 2nd. Lol

The eyes are the portal to the vagina!

They are awesome to me.

Your right everyone here is very helpful except one person, and I refuse to be nice while someone talks down to me, and makes little snide remarks. I have no problem with someone correcting me, or having their own opinion, but it's the insults, and condescending talk I can't tolerate. I'm a very easy going person and polite until you piss me off.

The initial question was very generalized and got great generalized answers imo. Was like who makes better cars, Japan, Germany or the US? What is the difference between high voltage brand Y design and normal voltage brand X and Z, Is more akin to whats the diff between a Porsche spider, Nissan Titan and Ford F-150. Depending on perspective all are great answers, and contained good knowledge. Thus the fun of great debates!! If I just want to argue, I would go hang out with my wife. We are all here to learn, and help others learn. More imopantly is we are grow men and enjoy being such here on SSA. I personally show great respect to the people on this site and the SSA site regardless whether I agree with others perspectives and opinions. Is the least I can do to contribute, and show graditude for things I have learned audio and non audio related here on SSA. Everyone here has great knowledge in something and has knowledge to contribute. If there is a misunderstanding I can humbly move on. if someone corrects me(which happens a lot) I am grateful and am humble enough to show gratitude. Let's keep things cool! Please and thank you my friends.

Ok, I am not sure where this topic got so far off track or why. But please keep in mind that I was roughly explaining on the very basics of general design methodology of most amplifiers from those respective countries as that is what I was figuring was the over riding question. There is no one best type of country of origin for a specific need. As the market has really shifted away from just pure SPL burps to more sustained high output on music (read: I only demo bro). I have seen a number of competitors or demo trucks stick with or move back to Korean style amplifiers due to the voltage drops from these long demos, and due to the extreme heat levels with cooling aided by the much larger heat sinks. More research and info is needed past my post, before making an amplifier selection for a certain install need. Two little side notes: 1. My name has two A's 2. Don't ever take anything Meade says seriously, I'll leave it at that. Sean, though he may come across a little harsh to some, is an engineer with a physics background and is always dealing with highly advanced testing equipment. So even if you don't like how he answers your question, he is a valuable resource when it comes to the knowledge base here. Which is saying a lot as SSA and DIYma are the two remaining active forums that are really worth it when it comes to correct and well backed up information in terms of high end audio.

Having some fun and making some grins with these! Still tweaking and tuning.

My wife is more brunette, but she has blonde highlights.....So I will pick both. Very good question. I ask myself this often, I do lots of important work and engineering, but that child in myself never goes away. For example I will be going tonight to watch TMNT! Been excided about it for awhile. So like in the last post I will pick both.

If you're buying a Warden, chances are... you don't need help on the enclosure.

Sounds like you speak of just opinions and not experiences. I been using raw drivers made for home audio as well for years and better than their car audio counterparts.

We like to call it constructive criticism around here

His threads always do,one reason I dont apply any input here anymore

Personally I wouldn't use one of those. And yes, the I-outputs are lame. Just as a reference though, there is absolutely no need for a 5v deck.

In particular if you have no deck.

"Possible" sure. Personally I would always want a volume control or mute in between the device and the amp. I don't fucking trust digital stuff and in particular apple things to do what I want them to.

Lord is Apple stuff ridiculously expensive

Lord is Apple stuff ridiculously expensiveI agree that Apple products are expensive but justified. The Pure I-20 is a iPhone/iPod dock with built-in DAC including coaxial, optical, RCA and video output connections for $90 shipped through Amazon. IMO that isn't expensive. You could connect any Apple audio/video device to it with an optional cable. Also there is the Bluetooth option with the 6to8. I haven't researched the playback quality going this route. A $3 cable and any generic USB audio device with an Android does the same. Just shocked that they need $90 to create a digital signal from a digital signal.

Yep, completely pointless. As with anything audio focusing on only one spec or two will make you draw the wrong conclusion. On subs you won't even here 10% thd, so...

So, we now know that you want to "confirm data wires" and this is leading you to buy a scope? I wouldn't bother for that.

Instead of buying tools to pretend to know what you are doing, buy a book and read. Loudspeaker cookbook would be a start.

Meade's tool is basically useless as well.

Understatement. I used to sell electronic loads and power supplies used for all sorts of testing including amplifiers. Just the load & power supply to do so with reasonable accuracy would set manufacturers back over $50k. Moved onto acoustic and vibe equipment which is equally as expensive.

Options are endless, but pc's are WAY easier, better & cheaper than a mac. I'd personally never buy a 360.3. First step is to decide what processing you need. Can't shop until you know that.

Perhaps re-reading would help. What processing do you need?

Because there are about 800 different ways to do it and the one that is best is what you need. If you don't know why you need an eq it won't make your system sound better. Sounds to me like you don't need anything atm.

You need to start out more simple. If you want crossovers buying a comp set is stupid. Running a midbass with a comp set makes no sense as well. Asking for "eq" doesn't clear anything up. I'd rethink everything else first.

Headunit causing distortion is NEVER related to your amplifier setting at all. Both can be sources and in that they are completely independent.* *unless of course you exceed the input stage levels of the amp Exactly. Setting at max anywhere is idiotic. It does mean though if you aren't smart and listen you can break something, but it will give you the capability to adjust for recordings which is 1000% necessary. Using a DMM is a TERRIBLE idea. In particular for you. STOP. Redo everything. 0.4v is rather low. Even still most headunits can't hit their stated voltage anyways so setting anywhere near a limit is a mistake. Of course if you set by ear this is really obvious.

And you believe it'll do 4.0? ...and doesn't matter either way anyways.

0dB sine tones don't count

There literally must be a 1000 threads on it. What are you looking for? Better comes down to installation, nothing else.