RE XXXv3

Edit: I suppose I'd have to make this thing to find out. It works the same for 2 12's, 2 15s, etc. If using 1" MDF and 1" spacing, 2 12's would be 87" of port area which is about 2.75 cf3 each with 16 sq.in. of port per cube.

The port is the blue area. It's a free-floating box inside a box, held by 12 bolts. The port is 1" wide x 123" long, it wraps around the front of the box. It's like having two slot ports, only there are 4, top/bottom & both sides. Besides the width being more than the height, the top & side views would be the same: ____________________________________ | _________port______________________ | || | || | (bolt) (bolt) mag/VC/surround || | || | || | __________________________________|| |___________port______________________

If you can afford it, 2 12" BTL's on the AQ2200D would probably be the loudest, more cone, efficiency, and motorforce. Power compression wouldn't be as much and they'd last a lot longer, but you'd need like 5.36 cubes total.

Posted Today, 07:07 PM - the universe is telling you to go sealed lol. There's a large difference in efficiency between a BL & BTL, even on 1000W the BTL should be louder than the BL, and the +50 sq.in. of cone area going to 2 12" BL's probably won't make up for the loss. You can put more power to a BTL. Can you make your space any bigger for a BTL 18 in 6 cubes @ 35hz on 3k? Don't forget that the lower you tune the louder it'll be to the ear, big difference between 150 @ 45hz & 147 @ 30hz. You should have said your fav. frequency, if I missed it. I'd bet a Soundstream XXX 15 in 4 cubes on 10k would be the loudest.

I'll never do this, it's for 2 SMD 18's in 8 cubes with 15.375 sq. in. of port per cube. Would it work, the port wrapped around the box? It's 1*123, so 123" of port area. Would there be port noise, not enough back pressure, or crappy air movement? I forgot the brace for the bolt. If the port was 1:4 it would be tuned around 30hz, says a port calculator.

2 Fi BL 12's in 4.5 cubes @ 37hz on 2000w.

Jesus, nevermind, I can't fit *55... gotta do 50.65 x 25.65 x 18.7 for 1.25 cubes each, not inverted. That leaves like .8" of space so the cone's don't get wrecked, but without space inbetween the subs, how the hell do I secure the box in place?

Than I won't invert. How do I secure the box in place? There is 1" between each sub. I'm thinking three 1" diameter black straps?

The only high output alt I can find is 270A for about $400, will that suffice? I think the stock is 120A. What'll happen if the pole vent is covered on two of the subs? In the pics it doesn't look like there's a pole vent. How do I secure the box in place?

What'll happen if the pole vent is covered on two of them (two will be touching the front seats)? What's the depth of the mounting ring, 1"? It should be 7.5" from the MDF. I just don't want the rear windows (the door windows) to flex badly and break, I'm not concearned about the back window. I don't have the space to port 8 12's so they're going in sealed. I want a sealed box so I can safely play with test tones 20-40hz. I'm not trying to get loud because I'm sure it will, it's a daily setup, and my last setup was a ported 05 RE XXX 12 on 1500W in 2.2 cubes, as long as it's louder I'll be happy. I won't be going to many SPL comps but I want to seal it up for extra db's when I do and I'll take it down to see out of the back window while driving. I don't care about 150db @ 42hz as much as 145 @ 25. I want a lot of cone area instead of high power because I don't want it to be weighed down with 3-5 extra batteries at 80lbs each. The sub & box should weigh 200lbs if the box weighs 40lbs, less than I do, so I'm okay with that. I'm going to use a Hifonics BXI2408D (2400W RMS @ 1ohm) because it's really cheap. 600W to 2 6.5's, 2 tweets, 2 mids, so 3000W total, running off one battery under the hood, I want the trunk space. When I want an SPL setup I'll get a BTL 18 and make an 8-10 cube ported wall @ 40hz running on the same amp.

I'm doing a temporary half-wall so I can still see out of the back window. How many dbs could be gained by sealing it all up? Does the magnet have a hole in the bottom? Is 6.5" mounting depth not including the depth of the mounting ring? What's the depth of the mounting ring? Would there be a problem inverting the dcon? Would I have to phase it? The box will be pretty close to but not touching the rear windows, would that be a problem?

2 15's in 5 cubes each @ 30hz on 2k. Try an SSA Icon.

Of course try your current box but if you're not happy, what do you have to compare to? With a great sub you might as well skip to a new box to get all of it's potential. You have 25 sq.in. of port area and need at the minimum 40 to be inbetween (if aeros are more efficient) a better 14-16 per, so shoot for the minumum rec. slot port port area and you'll get better results. Unless aeroports cut the needed port area in half (no), you need more port area. Don't bother choking it, but how are you supposed to know if you are? Do a slot port with 4 cubes & 64 sq. in. of port area for a better result.

Go bigger, you have about 7.38 square inches of port area per cubic foot and it calls for 12-16. They don't need 1750W but it'd be a little louder with more power so shoot for 1500-2000w if you can afford a new amp. 1200W @ 1ohm is enough power. There's a big difference between an Atlas on 300W and an Xcon on 1200W. Try the recommended 4 cubes @ 26-33hz with 64 square inches of port area (16 per).

Pretty show vehicles suck, they're reminders that most can't afford them. Any vehicle with 4+ of these subs is a real daily show car and by the looks of it they're all in the customers hands and there's more of them =). If you build something with quality above other brands it'll sell by word of mouth easily.

For the average daily setup 1 aftermarket battery is enough because they're heavy so 2k to a ported 18" and a 1k front stage is great. If it's a sealed 10" on 2K, well that's pointless. I like seeing high power walls just because walls shine with output, I like efficiency. While I do listen to whatever as loud as it can go for most of the time, if I don't like the sound of the sub's cone or it's response than it's garbage to my ears. The sound of my APX was getting annoying. If you could imagine 4 ported/walled 18's with 1200W total, that'd be a great setup in an SUV for me.

Both are 2" coils. Thumperr told me, I think based upon 4 ported 10" Icons doing something like 143 @ 25hz and 147 @ 35hz, that SW8000's wouldn't do that. I know they're uber different (no sealed for Eclipse) but it makes me wonder why Eclipse couldn't make something better for half the cost like the Dcon. I compare subs with price and output, not t/s.

Zukini vs coconuts I still want to see it. I don't like hearing that my purpose built sub will get owned by a smaller one that's half the cost, what a great sub.

That's what I wanted to know, that should be in the product info so the buyer knows it's high quality.

Higher quality than 128, double kicks can get muddy, I think 192 has better transitions or maybe it's just the timing. More information in a song means the sub will know exactly when to start & stop, which sounds like it can add to the SQ of a bunch of quick double kicks. Should get louder with less distortion. What's CD quality?

Get some vids of Dcons in sealed boxes playing tones 20-45hz. I still don't believe they get lower & louder than an Eclipse SW8200 that handles the lowlows with ease (LMS, 38mm x-max, 670W).

Try Pantera for double bass, download the 192kbs though.

You want to pound 20-25hz without losing 30-35hz, why don't you try a sealed box for a flat response? Buy a huge LMS driver like the Audiopulse or a bunch of Eclipse's, TC's, etc.

Still havn't seen a comparison. If you have two BTL 15's and one SMD 15 and they have equal output at all frequencies in the same box, it's like having "two BTL's in one", obviously that and every other driver ever is "ssoooooo" different. Why would people be quoted differently? How is it possible that it takes 10x the time to build an SMD when there's not that much more material in it besides a double stacked motor? What's all this hand-built sales jargon? I'd rather let a precise robot build my stuff. "... and for what it is and how much time and effort that has went into developing it", that shouldn't be the customers concearn. The price should drop once the loans are paid. If the raw material cost is going up than it's going to rise, but how much? Why would anyone buy a juggernaut now?

Both will get coins jumping but the 2-15's will be the setup that'll shove air out the window and make it hard to breathe. 1 12 on 2k in a good ported box is way too loud for most people, your rearview can fall off and you can't spark a lighter. How much space can you use? Measure it, you'll need like 7 cubes at the minimum for 2 15's and try 2.5 cubes @ 35 for the SSX. Almost no difference between 1600W & 2000W. $450 is a lot and both being D2's you can wire the 15's at two-4-ohm loads or .5 ohms in parallel, so that's more power than a 1600/2000W amp @ 1ohm will do. You might as well try the SSX, Treo's are amazing and you can wire it down to 1 ohm to use 2000w.