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SO yea, (2) 12" Ascendant Audio Mayhems on a Sundown 4500D running a 1Ohm load, .5ohm for comps , or (2) 12" Fi BTLs running on a Sundown 3500D at 1Ohm, .5 for comps?

Ok I am planning on getting 2 Fi BTLs Dual 1Ohm, and running them to a Sundown 3500D, but I seen the Mayhems and started thinking, I know you cant really hear the difference, but Im looking for the most, should I get two Dual 1 and run them to a 4500D? the box will be 2.5^3, 32-34hz IDEALLY. Electrical will be big 3, not sure if I 1 or 2 XS3100s, should run around 13+V(you get the point), 220A HO alt. Budget : $7500, gotta love the army bonuses.

how would you build a box like this for a BTL?

By no means am I pro, but Im gonna guess the more air that you can allow in the more bass? So go with the one that allows more air flow, probably over the box. But like I said, not a pro, just trying to help more than that other guy lol

well yea but Id hate to just have this thing sitting around taking up space you know? plus I could always make another.. but I guess since I cant find it and you guys wont tell me I have no choice lol

guess not...

Short and sweet, dont need it anymore. Cant continue with audio anymore And I cant figure out how to remove this dang thing..

Im trying to figure it out because if I do test with a multimeter then I can just double check and Id apply it when installing my amps and batteries and what not If you are trying to simply figure out what voltage you should have when you adjust your gain with a DMM you do the calculation below.... V^2 = P x I^2 Where V = voltage, P = power, I = impedance An example would be.... You have a 4ohm DVC sub that is 500w RMS that you wire to a 2 ohm load. You also have an amp that is 500w RMS @ 2 ohms. You would do the formula... V = sqrt( 500w x 2 ohms ) = 31.6 volts So you would set the voltage to 31.6 volts using your DMM. Edit: JL Audio Guide That is some very interesting info.. I just like knowing stuff like that, so when I do get my stuff I can tune it perfectly and help my friends whos systems are lets say lacking a bit.. also I just did the math and a BTL ran at 2ohm(DVC 1ohm) @2000wrms would equal a voltage of 63.25volts? Does that even seem right?

also check out the newer ecplise HU 8volts CD7200 mkII deadhead

Im trying to figure it out because if I do test with a multimeter then I can just double check and Id apply it when installing my amps and batteries and what not

Im just curious, I like to know everything.. So how do you measure eff? and if I do just test the outputs do I just hook the DMM up to the speakers + and - or where?

so even if I know the input voltage, and the battery supply voltage theres no way to figure out the voltage output of the amp other than a DMM? And I know there are some way to get amperage through calculation.. Im just not 100% sure how. current and ohms calculated here

To each their own I guess. Good luck with that! Honestly whats wrong with Hifonics? Ive never used one but everyone says they arent the best.. POR QUE!? lol

I am just wondering, how do you calculate the voltage output of an amp? Also how do you calculate the amperage output?

Not to sound retarded on this already horribly derailed topic but is there a real mathematical equation for figuring excursion from watts? Also I thought anything lower than 75w would mess up a sub? like the amplifier would start sending a DC signal because the lack of power draw and you guys know better than I do that DC messes up subs faster than AC.. But yea equation? There is. But it doesn't only have to do with power. Box size, tuning frequency, frequency of the note played, etc., all come into play when figuring out excursion with a given power input. Download a frequency response program that has an excursion plot and you'll get it. winISD is the one I'm familiar with. But I don't know the formula. As for less than 75 watts, that's just, well, absurd. What about subs that are only rated for 50 watts RMS? But I'll answer your question with a question- How many watts do you think your amplifier is putting out when your head unit is on volume 1 and you can barely hear the sub if at all? Is the sub getting messed up then? As for thread jacking, I'm not sorry. This was ridiculous in the first place. Ah touche good sir, and I never thought about a sub rated for like 50watts.. would that even be considered a sub?

Another question, If i don't get a secondary battery or new alt, and i have to get the dual 1 ohm sub and wire it to 2 ohms getting the said to be 1700w rms (probably 1500w) do you think it'll still pound? I was going to go with a jl audio 13w7 but i was convinced these were better subs and much louder, my goal is to beat my buddy in a db drag, hes got a stock alt, stock battery, 0 gauge wires, a rockford t1500.1bd amp and its powering 2 13w7s he said hes hitting 143's on the termlab. well since he has two and you have one and hes running about as much if not more power then hes gonna have you, but if you go big3 then another battery I think you can be right there next to him and easily beat him

p.s. as much as you want to you cant capitalize numbers, sorry lol

just need your guess nothing more.

816 or 806 depending on how you do your math..

hey, if they do change, thats more reason for you to be cooler, you got one of the old school BTLs :-) touche.. Goin old school.. lol

Not to sound retarded on this already horribly derailed topic but is there a real mathematical equation for figuring excursion from watts? Also I thought anything lower than 75w would mess up a sub? like the amplifier would start sending a DC signal because the lack of power draw and you guys know better than I do that DC messes up subs faster than AC.. But yea equation?

-1 rep for you, lets try some civility next time eh? I dont think he deserved that -1, read the very first post.. the guy asked to be called a dumbass.

haha I thought so.. either way oh well if it does I guess

Oh holy crap, didnt even think about lookin at a different amp....

Just a random question, Im thinkin about holding off to see but I figured Id ask the people that know best. So are there going to be any significant changes within a year or am I safe to order now?