socialstealth

where would you cross over those midbass drivers with these tweets: http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/09/DDT.asp ? Think they're a good pair?

http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/09/DDT.asp http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1600 what do you guys think I should cross these tweets and middrivers over at? Are they a good pair for eachother? SEAS Prestige CA22RNX (H1288) 8" Coated Paper Cone's are said to play 30hz-3000hz the ddt tweets say 2000hz-22000hz

m5 could this be used to go active with a 3 way setup? it says it has preset crossover points but i'm not really sure what they're capable of... http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1616XSG/AudioControl-6XS-Gray.html?tp=117&tab=detailed_info

if you don't plan on getting an amp, i'd suggest going for infinity references or infinity kappas (you can get them on ebay for VERY cheap!) I think I saw some used references for sale for like $20 shipped. If you plan on getting an amp, a sundown SAX 50.4 might suit you well. That and some nice cheap components, you'll even be able to run active with them.

they say they play up to 3k hz, what do you suggest crossing them over at? what should i look to cross a pair of tweeters at? (2 way system) http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1600 SEAS Prestige CA22RNX (H1288) 8" Coated Paper Cone

soo....does that mean the tweets are for sale? to do what you speak of is called running 'active', you would need to have the midbass connected to 1 set of channels, and the tweeters connected to another, thus using all 4 channels of the amp for your rear speakers. its actually better than using 'passive' crossovers (the ones that come with your component set). if your interested, I have a pair of 6x9 JL evolution vr690 cxi coaxils for sale. you cannot run coaxils active, only component sets.

No matter where you put those tweeters they are going to sound like ass. You are also going to have NO midbass which completely is the opposite of an SQ setup. I really don't at all understand your driver choices as they surely don't come anywhere close to meeting your suggested goals. what tweeter do you use m5? and what others have you used? which ones were bad and which are good? I want to sound like you when I grow up lol, subjective. What I am running right now is in my sig, but I have a bunch of other tweets in the house. Better to describe needs and ask for assistance choosing than what is bad/good. I need something to be paired with my 8'' seas driver (that i'm going to get) for a active 2 way. the seas driver goes up to 3000 hz so idk where I should cross over the tweets at. what tweets do you have for sale that are good?

You just email him and he will either give you pricing or recommend you to a dealer

the lvl 4's are worth about $100 over the lvl 3's each. I got a like new dc lvl 4 12'' with custom dust cap for 240$ shipped, which I believe was a great deal. he had 4 of them and they sold quick! are the lvl 3's // lvl 4's used or new? condition of them? how old are they?

do you think a fan will be necessary for 1200rms for a few hours daily?

No matter where you put those tweeters they are going to sound like ass. You are also going to have NO midbass which completely is the opposite of an SQ setup. I really don't at all understand your driver choices as they surely don't come anywhere close to meeting your suggested goals. what tweeter do you use m5? and what others have you used? which ones were bad and which are good? I want to sound like you when I grow up

well it seems to me that they're 'giving away' things, like the free upgrade option. this could be a method of depleting their old stock so they can release a new product. Maybe they're upgrading the upgrade and getting rid of the old ones.

I went to homedepot today to get my mdf board and they had a huge sign saying 'only APPROXIMATE cuts, no grantee of accuracy' My dad works at home depot (in the tool rental section), so he warned me that they would probably do a terrible job cutting it. I added an extra inch to the dimensions I told them to cut so I could cut it when I got home. I just had them cut the 4x8 board into 36'' // 32'' // remainder. Just so I could fit it in my car.... Is a sphere the perfect shape for an enclosure? I have a machine that can make spheres // oval shaped spheres so I've been thinking I could make an enclosure for my midbass woofers in my custom door pods and make it a sphere for super sq do tweeters need an enclosure?

Eh I just bought a used DC sub. Maybe if you give me an Fi for free, It'll make me into an fi-for-life (FFL) customer and hey, if you give me one for free, i'll even make a custom grill for the front of my car that says fi car audio on it, so ppl know what they hearin' when I stroll up into the parking lot.

Are these blank cds? How many MB/GB of space are used on them? (lol) my guess = 514 cds

how do you tell that a fuel pump has gone bad?

where>?

bump, want to buy materials tomorrow. I probably wont do the kerfed idea, i've heard there is no 'audioable' difference, and this is NOT for competitions, just for daily driving so... Does the design look good to you guys?

What do you guys think of the design? Its for a DC lvl 4 12'' sub How would I factor in a kerfed port to the design??? If the kerf is secured as an external portion of the port, will it affect tuning or require a change in design anywhere? Specs come to: -2 cubic feet before subs displacement -32.5hz tuning -36.25 sq inches of port area

Can you tell me how to get the port area and how to plug it into this forumula (Lv = [(14630000 x R^2) / (Fb^2 x Vb)] - 1.463 x R) using this as an example http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5149/175cubes32hz26sqin2rg.png

if i get a pioneer prs 880 with a TA mic, will this solve my problem of a 3 way system having different sources? would the fact that i will need 8 channels, and the hu only has 6, so i will have to have 1 channel running out of another amp cause a problem with the TA?

I think I'd like to tune it to 30 hz. I want to make a double kerfed slotted box with all 45 degree angles inside. whats the displacement of a 12'' DC lvl 4? what should the diameter of the port be? This is going to be the first box I've ever built any tips will be greatly appreciated!

The height of what X the width of what? How do I figure out the port area? is the the height X the width of the entire box? I found this formula: Lv = [(14630000 x R^2) / (Fb^2 x Vb)] - 1.463 x R it says R (radius of port) = sq rt area / Pi I assume it means the port area...which if I can figure out how to find that, I'll be golden Is it bad if the port height is smaller than the rest of the box's height?

I want the vibrations to rattle my chest, does that mean I want it to be tuned low? I figure lower frequencies cause more vibrations, right? Is the lvl 4 DC sub capable of being tuned to 30 hz? or would it damage it? If I can I'd like to have some slight angles in my box, is there a formula for figuring out the tuning frequency for a slotted port? is it relative to length? to cubic feet inside the port?

What goals are there for your system? Do you want a daily ground pounder or do you want an all out SPL system? Give us more infor to help you out, you know the rules. Sorry I thought I mentioned it earlier, its for a daily driver. I don't do any competitions at all. I simply want to feel the bass inside me If I tune it @ 35 hz, does that mean anything BELOW 35 hz will sound like crap? I've heard 32-33 hz is best for a lvl 4 dc sub. I want to design my own box really.... how do I know how big to make the port? (i want a double kerfed slotted port)