ppiflat10s

I have 10 guage wiring the coils together and to the terminal, and 8 guage from amp to terminal. I am pretty sure 8 guage is overkill, but it isnt much more than 10 or 12, so why not go with 8. wonder if well ever see something like knukoncepstz twisted 4 guage speaker wire... after both sets of insulation that crap would thicker than 4/0 power I bet.

its call of duty 6, and I guess it comes out november 10th apparently

retail cd, blank cdr, and full cdr weigh the same on my scale. it only weighs in 5g increments because its a shipping scale but 10 is 150, 8 is 120, and 5 is 75. so 15g is about what all 3 weigh.

with the weights on that site, if they use the same motor, wouldnt the larger basket as well as the larger soft parts add more than just an additional 3 pounds from a 10 to an 18? if so I wonder if thats the shipping weight and they just pack the 10 better? because shipping weight is only 3 pounds different. and that is more cone, more basket, more etc.. as well as more box and more packing materials. Im getting a little more optimistic with my guess after reading some of these posts, still doubt i won though.

how loud do you plan on listening to this to and how often? 100 amp alt to power the vehicle plus a setup that can draw well over 200 amps might be pushing it depending on your listening habits. plus as voltage starts to drop the amp will start to pull even more current which will further worsen the problem.

where were you able to find the fi Q weight listed? I couldnt find it and just had to guess. lol only thing I could find was someone claiming a 18" Q at 32 lbs which seemed light, but its all I had to go on, and I just hoped that the Q dropped weight in the same increments the XCON so I said 27 lbs. and my scale said ~ 13.7g / cd. oh well, guess Im gonna have to buy a Q now if I want one.

I got my pioneer premier 600UB for 132 bucks. its not the best but I like it. and as for rear fill, I always used to just fade the deck all the way front to get an idea what all front sounded like, then go all rear, back to center and then usually 1 or 2 back towards front (just to the point where I couldnt hear anything from the rear. just finished up the latest install and I have about 70 watts per side (infinity reference) going to a set of 40 dollar audiobahn 6.5 comps with absolutely no rear speakers and I love the way it sounds, and have been complimented on the sound many times. Ive sat in the back and blasted it and didnt miss the speakers right behind my head. I know it isnt great and there are areas I wish were better, but those have nothing to do with ditching the rear coax's, because what I do feel Im missing, my current comps do better than any 6.5 coax Ive owned.

isnt 0 guage the same as 1/0? then 00 is 2/0 and 000 is 3/0

can we go past 25 yrs? VW 1600 AC. those things never die and you never get stuck anywhere with one. I dont think they are the best, most reliable engines (or powerful!) but Ive gotten stuck at the side of the road a few time, but could always rig something within 15 minutes and a few tools to get home. not hard to trouble shoot, theres only abut 5 wires on the engine. plus anything you can have out of the car and on the table getting torn down in 5-10 minutes is just awesome. Im a fan of the B series, and the K series from honda. Im gonna put a F20B in my accord when it comes time though. destroked H22, iron liners, tighter bottom end, 8200RPM redline, 200HP. less torque than the H22a, but the trans always comes LSD equipped, closer gearing, and the engine revs much higher. the JDM F20C makes 247HP out of a 2 liter N/A ~123/liter B18C 197HP/1.8 ~109/liter B16B 185HP/1.6 ~115/liter K20A 220HP/2.0 ~110/liter (ive heard of a 240HP version but havent seen it)

http://realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm

you dont have 25 posts, says that in the first post, as well as someone posted about deleting posts where posters didnt have 25 posts. they do that so nobody can just open 50 accounts and guess a bunch of times.

where in AZ?

well thats only 6 ft^3 sealed after sub displacement. if you try adding enough port area and a long enough port inside that box youll be just about right for only one sub ported. so youre basically stuck going sealed.

wonder what time tonight they'll announce that it was 885 and ask me where I want that bad boy sent?

I dont think you should watch tv while driving your car.

If youre stuck shopping at best buy then get the type r's, I havent heard a RF P3, but out of the RF stuff I have heard (stage 2 12, punch HX2 12, punch HE 10) I have liked the type r's the most. the HX2 was louder, but I think the type r wasnt too far behind, and I think sounded better. of course every sub was in a different box, all were ported though. and the amp you should get depends on the subs you get, does best buy carry the D2 and D4 type r's? if not and your getting a pair of subs, then get the RF for the D4's and the alpine for the D2's.

I think Im going back to beats the nail or liquid nails on my next box. I have built probably 14 boxes using the stuff with no problems, used glue on the last box. works perfectly fine, but with the liquid nails stuff, say you cut one peice just a little too small or let the material get away from the fence for a second and gouge the edge. liquid nails not only glues the box together but it fills that void and seals the box at the same time. glue couldnt fill that gap because it will just run out before it dries. gorilla glue might fill the gap better than tite bond, but ive never used the stuff before. also, on a ported box, I use to have the port walls held back to sit behind the front of the box, and then I would have to cut a rectangular opening in the front to try and match perfect to the port. not terriibly difficult, but if you cut the top and bottom peices to the overall size of the box, and then run the one side and the inner port wall all the way to the outside edge of the bottom, and then but the front into the port wall, then the top finishes off the port and theres no trying to match openings. and if you need 2 identical peices you could use a router and a flush trim bit. I rip everything at one time for each different size needed, say all peices that will be something by 13.5, I rip all of them to 13.5 so I know they are all exaclty the same. I use a skil saw to rough cut, table saw to rip to the final dimension(if the table saw had a bigger table I could skip the skil saw step), chop saw for length, and then 2 drills, one to predrill/countersink and the other to drive the screws.

thats a weird port length for that box. box is 14.5" deep inside, so you obviously cant do in one straight run because if you do it would be closer to the back wall than the width of the port, but if you want to bend it, the length of the first portion is 14.1" (16" - .75 for the back wall - 1.15 for half the port width) so now you only need 1.4" more port, and since you measure down the middle of the port when bending it, you only make the next wall 1.4" minus half the port width (which is 1.15") so now you only turn the corner .25", but the material itself is .75" so just running your port to 2.3" from the back wall is theoretically a 16" port. I am not smart enough to know whether or not it actually works like that when a port wall is only .75", wheres shizz?

his fosgate is a 2 channel, but Im a little curious to what the two different mono amps are for? only thing I could think of is the alpine on some beastly midbass drivers, but youd want them in stereo wouldnt you.

yeah, the port is tuned to the volume of air inside the box, and both the port itself and the driver takes away from that airspace. as the net volume of the box gets bigger, the port length can actually shorten as long as you are keeping the same port area, and if keeping the same net volume but making the port area larger then the port is going to be longer. so one of the ways you can get more usable airspace in the same overall box size would be to run your port area on the lower end of the scale. anywhere between 12-16 in^2 per cube is generally recommended.

I type too slow, all my answers I gave are already posted above me.

yes it does, if you wire the front left and rear left, and then the front right and rear right. to the left and right channels, then you still have your setup in stereo. but if you wire the fronts to the left channel and rights to the rear channel for example, not anything that would normally only come out of the left side, is now gonna be coming out of left and right, but only from the front, and anything that would normally only come out the right speakers will now come out of both but in the rear.

nice, I was gonna do the math when I got home and now I dont have to.

still gotta take the port displacement out of the equation, because the air in the port doesnt count as box volume.

been using gucci mane - murder was the case - trap money to show off mine since I got it all installed. also these two Ludacris - red light district - get back or blueberry yum yum are also a couple good ones I got in the car. Im sure theres much better but so far these are a few of the best in my car