j-roadtatts

What is the bridged output? Beautiful work as usaul Jacob!! I shall give you alot of my money someday....

I just pulled the trigger on the last available Aura!!! Shipping from Canada is a MoFo. 40 bucks for the one driver. Now I just need to level match the gains better and not drive them so hard and clip them with boosted sounding music. If I can't find any pre built sealed pod inserts I will just have to build my own, but will like the increased power handling and thicker midbass.

Here's a good read on passive crossovers if anyone has some time to kill. http://sound.westhost.com/lr-passive.htm

The passive definetly takes alot of the tuning work out of it for you, I think they usaully have the circuitry to smooth out the FR also.

I vote all in if you've got the cake, simply because you will be happier with the results and the equipment will retain value better.

The one with the Alpine was a pre built enclosure. I just put a few spacers on the back of the box (1x4 across top and bottom) and put a false back wall on the box, this made running and hidding wires easy also. I was always going to use these boards as a template for a cleaner false wall but never was quite happy everything SO it just became temperary. I DID NOT use any foam with this setup, just really tight fits around the front. the box had a 2x4 under the back edge and a 1x4 under the front to get it level in the trunk and as tall as the opening. I cut the 2x4 the width of the trunk and screwed it to the bottom of the box before put the box in the trunk. This made screwing the box to the trunk floor real easy and gave me a leadger along the bottom to screw my false wall to. I just creased the original floor so it hindged along the back of the box. On the BTL, thats a whole nother story.....check out my build log, its long though so just skim the pictures.

Do you guys know if anyone makes these for a 10"?

The funny thing is 80% of the Hondas in America where built on american soil. I wonder where your Silverado was built, oh wait, I already know, MEXICO......

I was raised a Ford guy, but I love all classic iron. I think IF I had the choice of any post 60's car it would be a 'Cuda. Anyways heres a Dart I came across the other day, Who doesn't love old skool Mopar.

There is a forest fire about 10 miles from me thats been burning for about a week. I wake up this morning and the smoke has really settled in the valley. Smells like aspen trees.

WooHoo, I bet your happy to finally hear them beasts!!

The Truck is lookin' sickly brotha'!!

You just need a 455 Super Duty!!

After several days of listening to the Aura in the different alignments I will have to say I was lying when I said there was little difference. I am pretty impressed with the Aura in the .25 cu ft box, the midbass is nice and thick. I could almost go without a sub, ALMOST. I have been searching for a driver that models similiar to the Aura but has more xmax, I found this one but want you speaker guru's opinions. This driver models very well but I want to make sure I am not overlooking something. http://www.solen.ca/pdf/css/sdx10.pdf

Make sure you don't get resin in the threads though, that would be really bad.

That isn't really because they are "Long throw" in as much as the long throw typically requires a longer coil in the gap. Most manufacturers tend to use the overhung coil, which is a long coil one that extends beyond both ends of the gap, as it maintains a pretty linear BL, and it also increases powerhandling. But the downside is this longer coil raises the inductance of the driver and driver speed is pretty much dependent upon it's inductance. Here is a white paper on the subject... although it may be a bit over your head, you may gather some information on how a driver's function is affected by it's inductance. http://adireaudio.co...WooferSpeed.pdf The W0s are not actually "crisper" drivers, they are actually more distorted drivers... That is they have less linear BL (motor force) and less linear CMS (suspension compliance), creating distortions that are actually pleasing to many listeners. I know a lot of people like to rag on the W7, but it is actually a pretty impressive driver, with regards to innovative design and linearity. Like I said in the other thread, most people actually like distortions in the subbass and midbass regions. A couple quick (no pun intended) additional points to mention; Subbass frequencies are not "quick" frequencies. True subbass is not going to be "tight" and "crisp". It is, by it's very nature, slow and thick. When people attribute a subwoofer as being "tight" and "punchy", it's typically going to be because the subwoofer lacks sufficient low frequency extension/capabilities and/or a peak in the lower midbass frequencies giving it the appearance of being "quick". You can't make a 30hz note tight and crisp, properly reproduced it's simply not that type of tone. This is probably one of the reasons why you noted the "crispness" of the W0 in relation to the W7; The W7 has far more capability to reproduce the lower notes properly compared to the W0, so it was more correctly/strongly reproducing those slow, thick notes that the W0 probably lacked. And/or the W0 may have been a little more peaky in the lower midbass making it seem more tight and crisp simply as a function of it's frequency response. If a subwoofer has a peak in the lower octaves then those tight/quick midbass frequencies are going to have comparatively less output which will make the driver seem less snappy, again simply as a function of it's frequency response. It's not that the driver lacks adequate output in the lower midbass, it's just overwhelmed by the amount of lower subbass output. This is a typical problem with the long-throw supersubs that have no problem reproducing the frequencies in the lower register. People use an enclosure designed for a low anechoic F3 which, when placed in a car, become extremely bottom-heavy. There was a lot of talk about drivers like the old Brahma lacking upper frequency response when the simple matter of fact was that there was no physical or electrical reason for this to be the case. The users were simply installing the drivers in an enclosure that overemphasised the low frequencies so that the upper bass was comparatively much lower in volume. If you are noticing a trend, the issue is normally one of frequency response and not one of the actual ability to reproduce the tight/snappy/crisp frequencies. This same problem can be carried forward into midbass drivers. It could be that these long throw drivers are comparatively louder at lower frequencies where the lower-throw drivers weren't as capable which is making the snap/punch seem more subdued on the long-throw drivers. Also, Andy from JBL recently mentioned on DIYMA that snappy, punchy midbass depends also on flat response between 1kh - 4khz. This wasn't really something I had thought about before, but since reading that I've been spending more time really listening in my stereo and came to realize......he was right! If you look at that graph posted earlier you can see that the harmonics on many of the "snap" producing instruments extend into the several kilohertz range. You have a way with words Brad. You summed up everything I have learned about FR in the last few weeks in this one post.

You got a weak stomach M5?

My last set-up I just mounted the box to the trunk floor and then made side panels that screwed to the side of the box. I also had to make a filler along the bottom of the box. I wraped the filler panels with matching felt and called it good. My setup now I did about the same thing only I used the expanding foam. IF you are just trying it out I woundn't do any foam, just get the box and side panels as tight as possible. DON"T waste any sound deadener on it. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

I like the way enclosure carpet/felt looks on pods, otherwise some of that shag stuff they use in europe.

Always alittle sexy, in twisted kind of way.....

This is my first active setup is why i went with the 2-way. Once I feel I completely understand what I am doing in respect to tuning, I will probably switch to a 3-way. I debate the kick pods for a 5.25 or 6.5 and a tweeter. Otherwise I will just rework the door panel. No way I am going to get a 4" and tweeter on axis on the dash. At the present moument I am going to order another Aura and stick with the 2-way for a few more months. I will keep looking at midbass drivers and modeling them to see IF i can find another one to try. SO I am still open to suggestions.

Maybe for my next time around I will use dual Anarchys, I hope to buy them soon. Should I be looking more at a mid range driver and just let the sub do the bottom?

I tryed keeping my post short and to the point, but so much to go over. SO one more thing to add. I prefered the sound of the midbass in the door. I also played with the EQ in the 63 and 80 band while testing and it also confirmed I am happy with the Aura's sound in the door more than the sealed pod. I liked hearing the guitars so much clear and cleaner and feel the BTL is handling the lower midbass with ease.

I forgot to add that I am happy with the output when the car is sitting still. I have conquered ALL road noise from the rear, sides and floor. I am starting on the firewall and front fender wells next, I am also going to fill the bottom of the a-pillars and the running board with foam because I think alot of the road noise is inside the open body cavitys.

I started testing Q alignments with the one living Aura yesterday. I removed the fuse from the sub amp, effectively disarming the sub. Next I turned the Full rangers down quit a bit. I first listened to the Sony xplods I have in the doors temporary, I won't go into how bad they sound, BUT they did give my ears bias of what I DON'T want. I only have one Aura So I mounted her in the passangers door and diconnected the other door. I first listened to Tool Undertow, Right away I could hear the difference. The Aura came to life with clarity and definition!! Only the "bottom" sounded a little distant. Next I listened to AC/DC Back in Black. Once again the Aura sounded so smooth, with only the kick drum sounding distant. Third I listen to the Beach Boys, I only listened to song Kokomo and Good Vibrations, always good for the quartet of male vocals and easily picked out bass guitar. Once again VERY smooth and only alitttle light in the "boom" and "kick". Lastly I listened to some test tones. the 63hz was down 5db I would guess and 80hz was only about 3db down (once again only a guess) and everything from 100hz up was pretty level other than a 2-3db peak a 200hz. The Aura plays up to around 630hz with my 400hz @12db xover point setting, and rolls off easy on the ears. Next I mounted the Aura in my .6 cu ft test box and sat the box in the passengers floorboard. I listened with the same list of music followed by the test tones. I honestly heard little difference. Third I put volume compensators in my test box to bring the volume down to around .25 cu ft and once again listened to the same line up. once again little difference to my ear. NOT enough to justify sealing up my door pods. IF you guys don't remember, which I don't expect you to. MY doors are sealed with aluminum plate over the holes, butyl rope between the door cross supports and outer skin, then completely covered in Damplifier Pro on both panels, then I have a layer of LLP. My pods are mounted to the plastic panel BUT I have 3- 1/4" bolts going through the MDF ring in the pod all the way through to the door metal. Put it this way THE DOORS ARE SOLID. Next I redownloaded WinISD Pro Alpha. I ran the Aura through the program and it said everything I had already done on paper and heard by ear. That a Qtc of .707 was in a .6 cu ft box, and I was at around .5 in my current door enclosure. AND that there was a peak at 200hz. I then ran the Peerless someone suggested earlier in the thread, and it graghed high down low but lost everything past like 200-250 hz. Then I ran the Dayton HO but not the HF model. same as the Peerless only in alot smaller box. then I ran anDcon and Icon just for giggles. Same as the Dayton, only they wanted like .1 cu ft. haha. Anyways long story short I was honestly pretty happy with the way the Aura's sounded, other than maybe output. I like how easily they reach up high, and add so much warmth. The Aura's sound so clear and smooth I don't know that I am going to find much better. The BTL sub plays the kick drum like its going out of style and fills ALL the void that is missing. In fact The BTL and mids where blended so well that I though all that kick was coming from the Aura's. I want to add again that the living Aura coil is hardly dis-colored, Mostly still copper colored. I ASSUME I had the gains set different for one to burn up and the other to hardly touched????? I only ask this because I want confirmation. ALSO the surround was contacting the grill on long excursion. (disussed in the end of my build log) SO I am debating ordering another Aura and setting the gains right and not driving them so hard this time or ????? I am trying to find a speaker that models about the same as the Aura in my 2.5 cu ft, BUT one that has more RMS and Xmax. Please give me suggetions for different drivers to model that may fit my needs. I wouldn't mind ordering the one Aura and another set of drivers of the same caliber to try out and sell if I don't like them.