j-roadtatts

ATV TOP.

YeaH!!!!!! Tis the season to to go ATVing!!!And I got the day off too, So off I go!!!!

thats to big, the fuse will be the last thing to burn up. Either match the fuse to the wire size as the "MAX" or match the equipment on end of the wire as the "MIN" size.

I wouldn't worry about it on a factory alternator, BUT if you feel safer installing one then I would fuse to what the alternator is rated.

I never have fused mine, always factory alts, but others do. I would say fuse to the amperage of your alt and or size wire. Like OldSkool said, Don't worry about a fuse if you only have a factory alternator and factory battery. I ONLY recommend a fuse if its a HO alternator, and the fuse is there to protect your investment if something go's wrong. some HO alternators put out alot of amps. BTW Its still not nessacery even with a HO, just another safety measure for ppl that like overkill.(like me)

Yes, on the carpet. I would atleast give it a listen, If it sounds the best then who cares where they are at. Right? That close to you will require you to move the jumpers down to like -6 or -7 on the crossover before they will sound good. I listen after i move the jumper, If the tweeter is still to loud, move it again, once you hear the 6.5's over the tweeters move the jumper back up +1 until you find the sweet spot and call it good.

I have everything I need to finish my doors and dash, other than time. Today I got a little time so I started on one of the doors. First I installed butryl rope inbetween the outer door skin and the cross support tubes inside the door, there was some here factory but not very much, the drivers door is even worse. Here is the before pic.... and heres with the rope installed. then I did a layer of Damplifier Pro inside the door on the outer door skin. Here is an inside the door view. Next I used some 12ga aluminum I had laying around to cover the holes in the inner door skin. heres a side view of the aluminum plate. Heres a pic of the whole door with the holes covered. A close up of the back piece. This is the front part of the door, you can see the foam tape I wrapperd the wires inside the door with, you can also see the rubber hose I used to cover the sharp edges. Then I covered the inner skin with the Damplifier Pro. I rolled the damplifier into the new speaker hole SO theres NO sharp edges. Next I will install a layer of Luxury Liner Pro and then the door panel and door pods!!!!!!

I finally got to work on the doors today!!!!!! pics in a few, stay tuned.

definetly try anywhere you can, it won't hurt and you will get more famillair with your equipment. Theres this guy in europe that has the tweeters mounted to the front of his seat firing staight up, the guys name is Oki Mueller, if you want to look him up. I just keep moving them closer to me because when they were in the A-pillars I would lean forward and they would sound SOOO much better I would want to cream myself. They sounded good on the dash , but I wanted them on-axis once I heard them that way. I HONESTLY wouldn't even hesitate to see how they sound behind the door handle and as high as you can get them, I think you will be suprized. I would do them horizanal along the top, instead of stacked, better on the path lenghts if you go that far back. Stacked would probably be better in front of the handle though. The only reason I can think of to only run one set of tweeters is if they sound like two seperate sound sources, but if you get them right next to each other, you should be good.

BTW each spot will require a different "jumper setting" on the x-over. I had mine set to "0" with them on the dash firing up, I had them on "-3 or -4" on the A-pillars, AND right now I have them in the top front corner of the door and the setting are drivers side "-6" and the passangers at "-5". You might also want to see what it sounds like with only one set of tweeters going, you never know until you try. Also you will want to try different phase combinations between the tweeters and woofers until you find the one with the smoothest sound. I think right now I have the drivers side tweeter out of phase from the rest of the front drivers. once again you will never know until you try, I usually change the phase on a certian driver if it sounds real "out of place".

Why not on the black piece in front of the handle? Seriously Bro, you REALLY should listen to the tweeters in different spots before cutting any holes. I recommend after each time you move them, you listen while you are driving. Move them around to see what sound best in your particular ride. I suggest trying on the dash firing straight up and reflecting off the windshield, then try the A-pillars, then try along the top of the door and then try WAAAAAAAY down by the 6.5s. You will never know which spot will sound the best, BUT you owe to yourself to find out.

ya what they said, that looks like where the dash go's? Like I said, you should get some velcro and test the different mounting options before drilling anything.

I was wondering about that, but with out the file it is impossible to rotate the design to see the rest of the box. The box I built is like this also PLUS I extended the false side wall of the port into the box SO I could calculate end correction. I wonder sometimes about the "trapped air" and it effects on the sound????? any ideas?

Matching amps are a BEAUTIFUL THANG!!! But as stated above So hurry up and get some already.

Damn Bangin' that grey carpet looks clean as fuck. YOu did a great job of keeping it simple. Are you ready for me to send you my pair of R's so you can do three sets in there. hehe. I can't wait to hear your thoughts on how it sounds, I also debated adding a second pair before going to the 10"s. One pair sounds good, So two should sound even better without sounding strained. Are you going to test the different tweeter locations before you install them? Do you think you are going to run both sets of tweeters or just one? Keep up the good work.

I have heard them and they are worth every penny, they make the Focal K2 components look silly, and that stuff costs 1899.00. The Focal 6 inch has a Fs of like 79 Hz and if you look at their response curves they roll off below the 90 dB reference line around 145 Hz.. The Blues 6.5 has a Fs of 41 Hz or less, they are saying 41 but if you go to their site and look at the LMS graphs they show the Fs is more like 37 Hz.. The Blues will play loudly and cleanly too, most other SQ drivers fall apart at high volumes. The Focal three way set up can not cover the same musical range as the Blues either. The Blues 6.5 has a very smooth midrange and does not need a midrange driver to cover that area. I got to hear one system today in a chevy truck at a show in Fordice Ark., and I and everyone else thought the subwoofer was on, the guy just had the two way system playing and it was ungodly the low bass that came out of those doors and he still had excellent midrange too. He played 45, 40, even 35 Hz test tones and those 6.5s took every bit of it, and he wasn't ashamed to use the volume control. He also played music with organ notes and music and it did not take away form the upper frequencies for those 6.5s to make the low freqs too. They sound very dynamic and natural, and they are doing it in their vehicles without ANY DTA, processors, suround sound or anything, even showed us all that the eq was off and the radio was in bypass mode. My buddy went to jackson Ms a couple weeks ago and heard 3 or 4 vehicles with the Blues stuff in it, he used to be a car stereo dealer and he says the same thing about the Blues stuff. Hell, ask Todd Crowder what he thought he was there and it blew him away from what I saw. Mike the judge that judged the guys truck asked him how in the world are you getting that kind of midrange out of a woofer that can go so low. I think the guys name was Richard that had the truck, he was from somewhere in Missouri. Oh yeah, and god when he turns the subwoofer on! It is a true subwoofer, he had it crossed at less than 50 Hz, and it would go to any low freq you wanted it to, it shook the truck and could go so low on some notes that you couldnt hear it but felt it. I know I'm buying a set as soon as they release them! I talked to Ray at Linear Power and the Blues sight will have more information as time goes by, they were being asked to put info up about the product and this is just the start of the site. I wouldn't laught to hard at these guys, they seem to be on top of what they are doing. way to go SQ_MGB!!!hehe.

I would love to hear more real life experiences with the glass, as thats about as scientific as its gonna get. I on the other hand do NOT want to be reposible for mis-information, SO i will admit I have VERY LITTLE experience on the subject. I can think of pro's and con's BUT have no real knowledge, SO I will STFU now.

The BTL truely is a loooooow end monster, I know its box dependent, BUT this beast LOVES to play the low notes. the last set-up was a single type-r 12" on 600 watts RMS, The type-r did NOT play the lows very well,and was NOT very efficent @ 85db@1m. I had the type-R crossed @ 80hz lpf, 18db slope, ssf 30hz. that was in a prefabed box that claimed 32hz tuning and 2cf. net. vol. I had to use bass boost to get the old set-up knockin' in the low notes and I couldn't get it to blend any lower than 80. I have to admit the biggest reason was I had the rear 6x9's, but I quit listening to metal. I would LOVE to kick the guy in the balls that started putting rear speakers in sedans back decks, doors maybe, but nothing good will ever come from speakers that high up behind you. On to the new set-up, The BTL is a VERY EFFICENT subwoofer @ 93db@1m, SO it sounds amazing even turned WAAAAAY down, infact the SQ is UNBELIEVABLE at any volume. The BTL is seeing right around 2000 watts RMS and is crossed @50hz lpf, 18db slope, ssf @30hz. in my custom box tuned @ 32hz. in 5cf net. The BTL gives the lowest octave presents like I have never FELT before.hehe. BUT doesn't like to play above 50hz in my enclosure. As far as the metal and rock sounding better, the BTL does everything its asked with ease. The other BIGGEST reason metal sounds better now is NO REARS. the less drivers the better for the true SQ sound of rock and roll and To many drivers with metal just has to much destructive destortion. The Aura midbass driver is one BMF, and I have to thank NCSU and M5 for the great choice in MIDBASS drivrers.hehe. I can only hope to have them installed soon.

ya, nothing to exciting. A bunch of kids toys, and a TON of dishes and other resturant stuff. I made over a hundred bucks which wasn't bad for a bunch of 25 cent items.

I just spent 6 hours tattooing two dog portraits, Then I did a couple piercings, Now I am ready to call it a day and go home.

I had a yard sale this morning before I came to work, and I sold a ton of shit.

BTW I can think of good and bad reasons to use fiberglass in a sub enclosure, Is why I am asking your thoughts. AS far as me saying that it makes the MDF weaker is because thats what I was told to believe SO I thought of reasons why BUT like I said I can think of reasons both ways. YOU sound like YOU have more experience than others SO PLEASE give us more info from your experiences, SO WE ALL CAN LEARN.

And where were you and the guy that requested you when I was posting the first topic? All jokes aside, What benifits do you, ibaneder, see from using fiberglass inside an enclosure for daily use????? I know your reason for a comp box, but want to hear if you personally think its worth it for a Daily Driver that not pushed to it limits every time its used? SO MAYBE who ever requested your presents could request it again.

I agree that MDF is not layerd like plywood, but the resin created a top layer that seperated VERY easy. IN my case, When I routered my sub opening , drilled holes for my t-nuts, or added any screws through the MDF, the to top 1/8-1/16 of MDF was VERY brittle and DID INFACT seperate. The resin did soak in to the MDF 1/8-1/16 inch in my case. I DON"T compete SO I can't vouch for the DB gain but, I CAN agree that the fiberglass made the box peakier sounding SO i believe that would make higher DBs. I am no expert, and can only assume that alot of different factors go into each exsample. for exsample I store the MDF and resin near a heat source up to the minute I use it, maybe opening the MDF pores up some, plus the resin is VERY runny when warm. I will dis-agree that resin can be poped back off, The resin will take the top layer it created with it. If you are rating perforance by a meter, than maybe i could agree that nothing is lost. In everyday use I think nothing is gained from fiberglassing the inside of the enclosure, only money lost from using it. I think if the resin is whats sealing a box you should make better cuts or use wood glue. Like I said before if you are not competing than don't waste your time. IF YOU ARE COMPETING that all reasoning is out the window because you guys are INSANE with the things you will do to gain a little on the meter. SO I will admit that I have only done the one enclosure with resin, and am no expert on the subject, but will give my thoughts and ALSO want to hear about other peoples experiences on the matter. Please don't think I am arguing with you or acting like a know-it-all, As I am here to learn like everybody else.

Those are pretty cool woofers, I noticed the funny adapter ring first thing on them in sq_mgb and cableguys trucks, but didn't relize what wuz lurking inside. I like nostalgic shit so they are cool.