j-roadtatts

X pucking 2 I need to buy a saw so I can cut my own wood from now on since Home Depot didnt do all the cuts precise (I guess if you want it done right you do it yourself). Theres a reason them jackasses work at Home Depot, they can't fuckin' hang on a job site, same with all the stupid building inspectors out there...... Its not home depot's job to cut it right, it says right there on the saw it is not for precision cuts. Why even get out of bed if you are going to do something half ass. Do it right or don't do it at all......

i like it alot, for some reason i like the model i have better than the 07-08...i leased one and those are just too bulky for me, so the SE i have now is the perfect size with just enough beast in it Thats funny, the Xterras are the other way around. My friend has an 05 and its more like a car and I couldn't own one.

The book says the codes on 95 and newer hondas need an OBD ll scan tool or factory PGM tester. that sucks, the older ones only required a jumper wire installed and the check engine light blinked out the codes like morse code. If the light is an amplimeter, and not voltmeter, the amps could be out of the lights exceptable range scale.

I have a code book, let me dig it out and see what it says.....

HA, HA now I think I know where you got your handle, I use to ride ArticCat M5. I rode the M7 after that but I'm 200 lbs so I liked the lower M5 more. Nope. Never owned a ditch pickle. I'm 220lbs, but like my stuff to last. Polaris all the way. My avatar should be a dead giveaway on why my handle is M5...considering it is my car. I hope thier sleds are better than thier 4wheelers, the sportsmans are junk.LOL Ha Ha actually the RMK was my second pick back then, havent road in a few years. I was closer to 250 then also, The m5 handled nice for my fat ass.... I got a 660 Grizzly now.....hold the fuck on.

X pucking 2 I need to buy a saw so I can cut my own wood from now on since Home Depot didnt do all the cuts precise (I guess if you want it done right you do it yourself). Theres a reason them jackasses work at Home Depot, they can't fuckin' hang on a job site, same with all the stupid building inspectors out there......

I don't understand how this is posible, Mine was hard to the touch in about an hour at 20 degrees with no sun and alot of cold wind. I used the max recommened hardener and thats it. Next time you do fiberglass feel how hot the resin gets......

Like I said this is my own personal experince not something I heard. I was only thinking about your heater/AC vents stinking forever. Good luck!

Lookin' GOOD, I'm tuned in. How do you like your Pathfinder? I have a 2006 Nissian Xterra.

Welcome to SSA. I'm glad to see people that aren't afraid to get thier hands dirty. I will be tuned in. Fiberglass hardens through chemical reaction and has nothing to heat because Resin produces its own heat. I did some a couple weeks ago outside at 20 degress with no sun and used the max recommended hardener. The fiberglass still hardened in about an hour.

I have three options for the tweeters. I can leave them where they are now, I can put them back in the A-pillars or up against the winshield firing straight up, refrecting off the winshield. I have tried the tweeters I have now in all three spots. against the winsheild definetly had the highest sound stage naturally, the A pillars ONLY sounded good IF I leaned forward so the a-pillars could probly sound pretty good with on axis pods, I have an extra set of A-pillars with a hole already in them. THe tweeters in the doors where they are now definetly gives the most detail and I can make the on axis if wanted . All spots required different att. to match the levels so the closer proximty of the doors requires less power. I do have the polarity switched on the tweeter right now because was out of phase in the door. They where like BARK, BARK. THe midrange is as good as its probably gonna get afar as location and on-axis short of running 3 1/2's or 4 1/2's in the A-pillar, and with time alinment they are pretty good distance wise. The midbass can go behind the midrange, in the back door, or under the front seats. I don't have a golden ear so 3db shift is probably an understatement.

The problem with the 9886 and H100 is once the H100 is used I only get the 3 RCA channel's. My next option is Y the mid channel and use the crossovers in the amps for the midbass--midrange since I won't be adjusting this point much. This will leave the HU crossover's for sub--midbass and midrange--tweeter points with no passive crossovers. If I do this I will use a third smaller amp for the tweeters. I have a RF punch 301 amp I will use for the tweeters. You should now by now Sean that I will put in ALL the EFFORT it take's to make myself happy. I LOVE to build things with my hands, quit smoking 3 years ago, quit drinking 1 1/2 ago, and have a SHIT LOAD of extra Energy and spare time on my hands. I will build and re-build until I am happy with the results and learn alot along the way. My next post will be a picture and options.

I know install is 75% of the sound stage, I will start with the door pod's I have now for the 6.5 and the tweeter in the spot I have them know. I will place the 6x9 under the armrest behind the midrange. I can make them on axis also. I will move the tweeter's around with velcro if I can't get them to sound good mounted flat in the door. I can make pods for the tweters to put the on axis. I will NOT put speakers's in the kick pod's as I live in Colorado and they would get destroyed. Damn you type to fast M5, I will anwser the next post now.

I have placed the tweeters I have now in the door, a-piilar and in the factory location against the winshield. I understand I will have to work with placement to achieve a good sound stage, but every setup and speaker is different. The XS crossover has ALOT of adjustment for tweeter placement ALSO. I know I can raise the sound stage with a little EQ if needed. The passenger midrange in my car is on axis with me and the driver's side is less than 30 degrees from the use of door pod's.

HA, HA now I think I know where you got your handle, I use to ride ArticCat M5. I rode the M7 after that but I'm 200 lbs so I liked the lower M5 more.

I am almost done with my sub-stage and Sound deadening So its time to start planning my front set-up. I want a midbass in the front door with my midrange and tweeter Now that I will no longer have rear's. I had been thinking of a round misbass but have heard such great things about the XS-69's and know they are same SD as an 8". I am also VERY interrested in the XS-65 comps for the mids and tweeters, but honestly have never heard any of them. I like the speaker's specs, ID customer service, and want to give my money to an American company. I will be driving 200 miles to Denver to hear them for myself before making any final decision. I am after flat response, Good sound stage, and good imaging. Dare I use the "SQ" term? I know ALOT of these things's will be achieved through tuning and placement. I am a patient guy and know that I will be tuning and adjusting for a few months after installation. NOT a problem. I will be using the 3-way mode on my PXA-H100 for the crossover, sub--midbass--midrange and tweeter. The XS-65 midrange has a natural roll-off and the crossover that come's in the comp set adjust's the tweeter ONLY. I plan on running 2 MRP-F600 amp's bridged. One for the midbass and the other for the mid's and tweeter's. both set's of speaker's are rated at 225 watt's and Eric Stevens the ID tech says these are good for 300 watt's with a CLEAN signal and SMART user plus I like ALOT of overhead because 60 year's of different studio recording style's leaves's ALOT to be desired sometime's. Like I said in the title I am ONLY planning at this point, I aleady have front comp's installed to get me by for now. I am open to suggetion's and will consider raw drivers if someone want's to take the time to help me pick them, I get a headache trying to go through all the options at Parts Express and Madi-Sound.

x2 through Fi's website...only thing, i never left Hey x3 for Fi website.....How did I end up there? "my eye" of course. I had been looking at RE, TREO, Memphis, Matts, and any other high powered name brand sub I could when I found Fi on youtube.

I only filled the seat rail part. What you see in the picture is just what came out the holes. I am debating filling the bottom door jam and a-b pillars because I think they all connect together and noise travels through them like a cave or tunnel. this will be VERY LAST thing I do if at all. Probly make the car not crumple like it's suppose to in a wreck though? I glued the LLP right to the damplifier, I think the glue is important because otherwise theres open space under and noise can travel easier. also connects all layers to create one thick layer.(metal,damplifier,CCF,MLV) The foam does not possess the force to bent the steel. I think the foam would not expand all the way before bending 18-16ga steel. I am REALLY excited to do around the box because this will encase most of the rear wheel wells with the foam. I think the foam is very effective in holding a panel from resonating.

Ordered 4 more sheets of LLP and another 40 sq ft of Damplifier. I also ordered 15 more feet of power wire from knu konceptz, should be enough wire to finish all the power. I got the car put back together also. GOD I should be close to installing the box. You know what the say: 7 P's= Prior Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Peformance...... Ya I do nice work, just not very much of it.

M5 nailed it on the head. If you are going to attemp sound deadening I suggest understanding the science behind what you are trying to accomplish. A car will NEVER be dead silent or free of resonation, but can become ALOT quieter than they came from the factory. This is why you must understand what the end result will be and NOT expect the car to be DEAD silent but alot quieter. Mass loaded vinyl not only blocks outside noises but will also trap the sound of my stereo inside the car, WHERE I WANT IT.

Yes damener is to stop panel resonantion. Do People NEED dampener under the CCF or MLV on the floor, Probly not but I went the extra little bit beacuse I DON'T plan on ever removing again!!! Dampener is like holding your finger in the middle of a resonating panel, This is why you want the Mass of the dampener in the middle of big panels acting as your finger. I will only be biulding up mass on the centers of the front doors everything else will only be the single layer. The only other place I can think of needing mass is the middle of the roof, once again the last thing I will do. Yes the ideal coverage of CCF and MLV would be EVERYWHERE and unbroken, unfortunately this is not possible in a car(humps, curves, shifter, pedal rods, steering column, opening doors, glass, where the trim and bolts go) so we do the best we can and live with it. If I ever do another car I will try doing the layers seperate, not because I don't like LLP beause I do, just to see for myself what is easier and what works better. I love to learn SO I am learning and hopefully so is someone else. I did 2-3 pieces of foil tape on all edges and seems,unless you are goint to glue EVERY edge perfect I still recommend the tape. I bought my tape at wal-mart ant it was VERY sticky and RIGID. Let me know if you have any questions, I am glad to share. Good luck getting the upholstery back in if you use the carpet pad.....

Ground loop is when voltage changes from different points in the car due to resistance in the paths of current. This can be measured with a DMM, don't waste your time though. Just make sure all the audio grounds are hooked to the same spot. If this doesn't work, run a small wire from the battery ground to the ground point then you know you have no voltage drop. This wire only has to be 14-12ga. and does NOT need a fuse.

Whine is usaully from poor ground wiring or ground loop. So make sure all the audio grounds are hooked to a good spot, and you can even run a small wire from the battery for ground loop. Hook ALL Audio grounds to the SAME spot if possible.

It should, same application really Lead sheeting works in the car too, but it isn't so cost effective. Might add on just a couple more pounds too, just a couple. Which is also the goal. Yes weight and mass are good things, just not to much or in the WRONG places.

Both tweeters look pretty good, the Vifi has a little smoother response. I wanna try a textile tweeter someday. Either one plays pretty low, definetly good for active. I can't wait to see how you like em'. Is this your first active set-up? I drive to SoCal 3-4 times a year with the familly in my honda, I might have to find a show when I'm there, otherwise I will probly find one here in colorado on the Eastern Slope. My biggest problem is I work weekends, F*cks my schedule all up........