j-roadtatts

Looking good my man!!! I actually loaded that sub into WinISD and modeled for you, but didn't make it back to post the results. Let me know if you need me to check anything for you dude.

The purple one.

We got four days of snow in a row last week. There is bunches left on the mountaintops. Pretty sure we have at least one ski slope getting ready to open.

I don't normally bore you guys with my art, but wanted to show of my painting! LOL My fat ass for size referance. Hopefully get it clear coated tomorrow! Woot!

Hock your brains, pack your bags and head out west.

I have a set I have been enjoying in ported boxes, playing down to about 45hz. Hopefully will have a set installed in some kick panels in the near future. To answer your question about the midbass, IMO these fall right in the middle. They are not absolute midbass monsters, but are not weak either. That’s running them side-by-side next to quite a few other 6 1/2 I have laying around. The modeling program says about the same. What makes them or any good speaker better than average. It’s all in the motor design. That’s where the magic happens. The rest is just parts. As stated above these were designed for a special niche. I think where they really shine is they cover a broad spectrum of that niche. They are VERY flexible. They’re just as at home in an SPL rig with the sub covering a little more ground, as they are in an SQ vehicle with the gains dialed back and the crossovers set lower. Same goes for the top end. they have decent reach that could be used to your advantage in an SPL vehicle to save the tweeters. Why the Evil’s? Anyone that knows Aaron and Mark knows their heart and souls go into their products. They would rather make one good product that they are pleased to hand to their friends, then have a slew of mediocre models just to make a profit. The Evil’s are a premium driver, at a working man’s price. These guys take care of people. That’s why. Beyond that simple physics apply. A speaker with a heavier cone should have better midbass, IF the motor design can maintain motor force throughout the majority of the cones travel. That and sound displacement....Surface area x Xmas. Surface area and the weight of that larger cone being what you are lacking. If you have any tuning capability you should be able to at least get what you have sounding good. You won’t have the midbass output of a 6 1/2, but you should be able to get things to sound right.

That’s why they call it “relative” humidity. LOL Seriously though. When I was out there once It got below about 80° it was 100%.

The cold makes the bones ache anymore. I use to run around in shorts almost all winter.

Sitting on the dock of the bay...

I’m right at 6,000ft elevation. Low landers struggle to breathe here when visiting. Especially if they go for a hike. your telling me Mikey! The humidity was right around 90 percent when I visited the south this summer. Sweat rashes all over the place.

Got that thing drained and the spriklers blow out too. We usually get our first freeze before the end of October.

Shit I don’t even have A/C. Is so dry here most just have swamp coolers. (Evaporate cooler for you non-Coloradoan’s)

I will pass this info onto him. Thanks Neal.

I’m pretty sure I have a little more padding on my bones the you do. Lmao Had to air up everybody’s car tires this morning also, was not one of them over 30 psi.

Had to turn the furnace on today.

...Or she starts dating a guy that details rides.

My hopeful future son-in-law started detailing vehicles on the side recently. I was showing him the ones you whipped out. Turns out quite a few people have asked him about doing ceramics.

You are pretty much married to every dimension other than Height. Perhaps a little play front to back if you don’t mind them hanging out from under the seat like the one you posted. If it were my vehicle I would build/mock-up the bottom and sides of the box. Then figure out how tall it needed to be to get the correct volume and port.

Can’t go wrong with anything in the SSA lineup. I own several and I’m very happy with them. Same goes for the evil mids and tweets. Phenomenal performance for the price point.

Oh good God!!!

That design will work great! I have seen guys do the bottom out of fiberglass so that it is molded to the floor. Then build the rest out of wood. Just know the final enclosure volume needs to be closer to about 2.75ft.³ One cube per, then .22 ft.³ for the volume that the subwoofers will displace. I am not near a modeling program right now but would estimate the port will take up at least .4 ft.³ also realize that is the internal volume and the three-quarter inch walls will also require space.

There will not be an audible difference for a daily driver no matter which way you face the port. If you were competing and chasing that last single decibel then having a test box and trying different directions may pay off. I would do what is going to be easiest to build personally. You should be good on power with that amp. The smaller the enclosure the more power the subs will handle. SO if the box ends up a little undersized you’ll be OK. You’ll easily be able to push the subs to their mechanical limits, which is the most output your going to get from the cone moving. The smaller box will not hurt you also in the fact that it will make the tuning frequency have a little more output out of the port. Basically a narrower response but with a higher peak. Here is an example of how one gentleman on here did his port side firing.

Down firing under the seat, ports forward would be a sweet setup. I would recommend a flared tube port such as this. https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-6-flared-port-tube-kit--268-354?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIge66tdPv3QIVRdbACh1bZgHnEAQYAiABEgL_V_D_BwE Without doing the calculations I imagine you will need two ports, to keep the port Length from getting too long. The one I posted is a 6 inch but that was just an example. Let me know if you need help figuring out the tuning. I could get your close and then you can change the lenght of those ports very easily to fine tune to your taste.

Looks great guys!!! Feels like walking into a new casino!

I personally would do them both in the same box, but just for simplicity of building. The other reason is you would want the two enclosures to be relatively matched if you did them separate. Keep in mind that the port itself will consume some of the volume. If you could run external ports, that would help keep the airspace.