abmoore

What would be a good way of going about the build process? Like how strong of an enclosure should I be building to house that much midbass, and how much would on and off axis matter with these drivers? I guess I should use some birch wood and clay, then use some deadener and foam? I think I asked this earlier but would anything else need to be done to the sheet metal or panels?

Sorry, I use TA now, I thought he meant TA for all of the mids, not just between each side, so if I needed to do that I would need four amp channels not two, but now I see I can run them in parallel, I was just confused with what he said.

I think I am going to try that now, that idea does sound sick. So I would need something for time correction between the two midbass drivers but I only have a three way active crossover so I guess I would need to upgrade that. I hope that would be some monster midbass though, that's insane xmax, plus I wouldn't need to destroy my door panel for that. And no I never called aura sound because I decided I would keep looking around and look at that option last, I still might though but this option is so far my favorite, although I like the 18s drivers too. You will be happy with the dual setup. Definetly easier to install also. Aura wanted 200 ea plus shipping so I would ONLY do that if you REALLY want them. And yes I did get the last two out of three where I got em'. I knew it!!! Yeah, I should be pretty happy with this, will get the money together and hopefully then some pics. Need to pic a different amp now because those are 8 ohm I believe.

I think I am going to try that now, that idea does sound sick. So I would need something for time correction between the two midbass drivers but I only have a three way active crossover so I guess I would need to upgrade that. I hope that would be some monster midbass though, that's insane xmax, plus I wouldn't need to destroy my door panel for that. And no I never called aura sound because I decided I would keep looking around and look at that option last, I still might though but this option is so far my favorite, although I like the 18s drivers too.

Think it depends if you know them all ready. Repeat business actually stems good customer service, and while that unfortunately cannot be a luxury for many people, it works for me. I have never had a problem so I can't comment on their CS from that standpoint, but I have heard my fair share of stories.

Tie for me, Snakes on a Plane, Napoleon Dynamite, and some movie with DMX thats about 10 years old but can't remember the name. Now SOAP was one of the most entertaining, and ND for the god awful quotes it has blessed us with.

Haven't heard the new Q but the last model Q>IDMAX v.3, the q gets down and loud, and obviously way cheaper, but it does need a lot of box volume for ported. The new q is more customizable, like the btl, about all I know though.

Haven't heard the new Q but the last model Q>IDMAX v.3, the q gets down and loud, and obviously way cheaper, but it does need a lot of box volume for ported.

Haven't heard the new Q but the last model Q>IDMAX v.3, the q gets down and loud, and obviously way cheaper

Are those going to also be an output compromise, I guess the midbass will be better than what I have so maybe ill try more fidelity in the midrange.

I looked at the all of those and kind of took a liking to the 18S. I also looked at the eminence alpha 10A and 8A, HAT L8 (I know you aren't fond of those haha), and the Morel CAW 938 Morel CAW, although the TS specs didn't match up, I think the Qts was higher than those other drivers mentioned. I was just looking at those because I have heard the L8, and because the specs on the other seem to be pretty good. I don't know if the freq response on the L8 would work, hoping you guys have experience with the others. If those wouldn't work I guess I will keep trying to get that Aura Sound 10 or go with the 18s.

Oh and do you believe the whole rear speaker arguement yet? Just curious. I am saving up for a new front stage and couldn't spend any money but still wanted a quick fix to help my quality. I kept my same front components, bridged my amp to them, took out the rears and sold them, cranked the gain all the way down, changed the mounting locations, and made my car sound 10 times better. Not only did I not spend anything, I made money. So trust me, these guys are good at what they do. OH, and I had to read many deadener links multiple times just to realize how little I now know about it. So like M5 is saying, keep reading.

Just like your test for rears, you again completely missed the point. It ISN'T the speakers that make anything an SQ setup, but the installation. Exactly why your front / rear test failed. Look up cancellation, interference on wiki. Read it. Make sure it is in reference to waves. Then ask a logical question regarding the interaction of the fronts and rears WHEN THEY PLAY THE SAME FREQUENCIES. If you truly read it, I doubt you'll even need clarification, but I guess you probably won't believe it either. After all it is just simple Physics. Read the deadener page that was linked earlier as well. Hell read it 3x. Don't ask another deadening question or for clarification until you do. When you do ask, CITE what you don't understand or need more clarification on. You will be surprised at how much more helpful the answers will become when you spend 5 minutes doing some quick research first. That btw is the appropriate way to ask questions on a forum. If you really want to know how I feel, try to join www.corner-carvers.com. READ their terms and conditions. A light bulb should go off on how to actually get help on a forum. That one is by far the best run forum thread wise I have ever been on. Haha. I was waiting for that post to come.

Ok, well I will sacrifice some output and maybe cross the sub a little higher. What driver should I try then, just a pro audio 8?

Well, would a three way be too hard, I mean I need to learn somepoint and I'm getting a pxa-h701, other wise ill just give up the midbass

Well, would a three way be too hard, I mean I need to learn somepoint and I'm getting a pxa-h701, other wise ill just give up the midbass

Actually think 63 is about as high as I want to go.

Duke, live 5 mins from the school and my school isn't in it this year (damnit NC State).

Duke, live 5 mins from the school and my school isn't in it this year (damnit NC State).

How would you compare it to a fully loaded BTL, I guess they are different but output wise, still it depends on his goal.

They do get loud for sure, I personally like more low end spl, that's only my preference though, and I feel like the BTL gets lower. I could be wrong. Also depends what options you add I guess.

I coated my last box in fiberglass on top of doubled up mdf, seemed to make stronger, harder at least. That box was pretty much indestructable with the top also getting a coat of truck liner haha. Weighed about 375 by itself, kind of a downside.

Alpine or eclipse are great for SQ, I wouldn't go with that 6100, put a 4100 in my friends truck and it was a huge SQ step down from his previous alpine. And the MKII would be fine, you will never see 8V, only on a pure high frequency test tone at full volume of the deck. It is crazy hard to use though, it is definately not the most user friendly.

Definately get a stronger alternator. You gotta be straining the hell out of yours with 4 extra batts. And x100 on buying another BTL before 2 L7s, I personally think they sound like poop, and not as loud.

Well my new box is tuned to 28 Hz. So I could cross it at 63 probably at the highest. Those av.2s are low end monsters but not really much response over 63 I have found. I have a box tuned at 38 Hz too that was better but the SQ was no where near this one. is that high enough or would 80 be required? Another 10 option would always be cool though.