abmoore

Ok thanks for the help guys. That's all I needed to know. I think I might try aero ports this time, see how it works out. Just for shits n giggles though, better numbers come from the massive port areas and large boxes right, at a low tuning frequency, generally. Dumb question, think I know what's coming.

I would think passively, active seems to make sense, having midbass, midrange, then highs all seperate. Just need to know what you are doing to tune it. Anyway that's what I have gathered from my past threads where I was advised against it.

Sorry, made that post on my phone and was going to get more into the question as it progressed. I was kind of going for how multiple ports vs single ports, round vs slot, and different port areas affect SQ vs SPL and port speed. I should have probably put this under general technical and definately made it more clear. Just thought since it was an Fi product specifically it would be ok here. And this isn't really goal orientated, just to help myself, as well as others, to decide what design to incorporate. Also, what's wrong with Audioque? Thought it had a pretty proven track record.

Its fine haha, I have read that 362 sounds much better active. I honestly don't feel that the pxa-100 is the most flexible, its paraEQ is a 5 band, +/- 6 dBs, with Qs 1, 1.5, and 3. I thought that with a 5 band parametric I should be able to tune anything efficiently with correct mounting locations. Oh and I have not yet purchased my SDS CCF or MLV from Don so keep that in mind. I will in the next week though. I mean isn't the pxa-100 kind of inderior to the 701? So the cuts are not what they need to be?

Oh and an update, I have a friend who is willing to sell his beloved Brahma 15, might have to snag that. Would probably fit in better with the SQ side of things. Says he wants it a couple months more so he can afford to get the XCON I talked him into getting

Ciao. Benvenuto qui!

To what frequency is your box going to be tuned? Size etc...

Am I allowed to do a bump for my man Mr.

I would take it

OHHHH, he's delusional. It makes sense now. Your excessive generalized "facts" show your true intelligence and skewed perception of the world. OP Congrats man! Hopefully I will be that lucky, love my new little cousins. *Edit* Oh, and why would he need a forum if he is psychic, seems he should be able to figure out what is wrong with his current set up or if he will like his next one

Would you recommend multiple ports are a large single port for 2 Q 18 D1s with cooling and the extra spider on an AudioQue AQ2200d, in 20 cubes after displacement tuned to 28 Hz? Car is a 2004 Tahoe with the max box dimension limits being about 27 H x 49.5 W x 36.5 D. I had a few designs floating around, I think one was with 4 8.5" round ports, one with two slots along the bottom of the box, and one was a rectangle in the center measuring 15.5 H x 19 W, so 294 in^2s area and was 22.35 in. long. The dimension limits leave about 7-9 inches between the box and the rear, 7 at the top and 9 at the bottom. I was thinking the large port might not have enough port speed, but hey no chuffing lol. Maybe I should try designing one large port across the bottom?

Sweet deals! Especially the 3500d

No they are passive, it's a three way so I don't have the capability to do 4 way active with the pxa-100.

Peaks are around 2.5 khz, 5 khz, and around 12.5 khz, the 2.5khz distortion might be the aluminum so I have read. There are dips in the mid bass and around 10 khz, which seems odd. I can normally eq out some of it with expense of one or two of the other problems. I normally need a dip across the midrange frequencies to have less fatiguing. I have used sweeps but not warbles.

Well I had them in the doors in the stock position at first, then put the mid and tweeter more on axis, actually I think you gave me that advice and it helped. That improved the high end response substantially and made EQing easier. It doesn't cause the fatigue nearly as fast at lower levels, but I like it louder than that, and its rather annoying listening to music quietly just to be able to enjoy it for long periods of time you know? And I have spent plenty of time trying to EQ out the bad frequencies but always had a peak or a dip somewhere.

That should be sick. It will sound pretty badass too, not to mention HTs.

What would be the most important factors involved in the installation of the line array that "will make or break things"? So as long as the drivers are as vertical as possible in the line array, then the SQ will be there? this is the caveat that will "make or break" if its SQ I assume. I am starting to wonder if I am capable of doing this properly. I have been way over my head before and it is not fun and the results are only marginally better, sometimes worse. This line array sounds real cool, and I wouldn't mind trying it as long as you think it is the most economical and relatively easiet set-ups, and remember, this is my first active set-up. The more variables, the harder to figure out, thinking I should start simple, like a simple 1 inch or oversized tweeter, unsure of placement, and then the 7-8 inch mid, something with enough midbass and a more natural sound (guessing paper cone). I could be wrong, and as always I don't mind being corrected, like you said j-roadtatts haha. I am also looking to avoid much listening fatigue, if that has any affect on the drivers chosen, or is that mainly install / combo of the two? You definitely should NOT do it. You should do a setup that you expect to change a few months after you do it. Really understanding your goals both short and long term is the next step here. At the moment I have NO idea what you are trying to accomplish. I will try and make some clear goals here, I have been very sporadic throughout my threads and posts. Mainly because after more and more reading, I am understanding how much there is to know. So here they are. 1. I am now trying to work within a budget. Before that was not much of an issue but I am moving and need money for the new house. So for mid and high drivers, as well as another amp to go along with my Arc, I am willing to spend 700, and that is more than I need to do but I see it happening anyway. 2. I want to do a system less focused on sheer output, and more on SQ. When I say more on SQ, I guess I am still looking for some extra levels near the low end of the spectrum, but overall, I am looking for a flatter response than I was striving to achieve. A little extra midbass and more natural at all levels than my set up right now. I have the Eclipse SC8365 and have been working with it for a longggg time. They are all aluminum drivers and I develop listening fatigue after just a few minutes. Although they do sound rather nice and lively at first, I am guessing that is distortion. 3. I would like to run active and want to focus on developing better installation skills, I have hopes and dreams of being a successful DIYer ::. Those would be my main goals for this install. I have had the same thing for what seems like forever and I am dying for a change. This is at the moment a short term project, and I plan to experiment more down the road to build experience.' So I hope that helps a little with what I want to do. Let me know if I need to give anymore info. Thanks

What would be the most important factors involved in the installation of the line array that "will make or break things"? So as long as the drivers are as vertical as possible in the line array, then the SQ will be there? this is the caveat that will "make or break" if its SQ I assume. I am starting to wonder if I am capable of doing this properly. I have been way over my head before and it is not fun and the results are only marginally better, sometimes worse. This line array sounds real cool, and I wouldn't mind trying it as long as you think it is the most economical and relatively easiet set-ups, and remember, this is my first active set-up. The more variables, the harder to figure out, thinking I should start simple, like a simple 1 inch or oversized tweeter, unsure of placement, and then the 7-8 inch mid, something with enough midbass and a more natural sound (guessing paper cone). I could be wrong, and as always I don't mind being corrected, like you said j-roadtatts haha. I am also looking to avoid much listening fatigue, if that has any affect on the drivers chosen, or is that mainly install / combo of the two?

The line array wouldn't be as much of an SQ approach would it? The A pillar would work here and I'm sure I could fit 4 almost vertically, pretty high too.

Apologies for the massive mid thread post. Long winded almost doesn't give it justice lol. I was thinking maybe a 1'', maybe a radiating tweeter, or the rs28f, even though many of them have a lot of HD under or around 2-2.5 khz. Maybe also starting off with a 7 or 8 inch paper coned woofer or something similar, since all of the mids I have used were aluminum it seems. Just to get a different sound then be able to have a more educated pick down the road, a driver that better suits my needs. Should I focus more on low non linear distortion than linear? Seems to be what I have gotten out of some different readings, but I have also read otherwise...

Or should I start a new thread?

Old thread, yes I know, but I was advised against starting a new thread even with different goals. So please try and look past the fact that this is a continuation, I will consider all help as usual, and thanks to all that have attempted to help many times before. My budget has changed drastically recently so I am in the middle of selling all of my equipment and starting over with something less expensive. I have gotten about $2200 so far and still have more to sell, but don't necessarily need to spend all of it. For the new sub stage, I am getting 2 Fi Q 15s or 18s, and a AQ2200d, still considering the tuning based on what else I decide on. So that sets me back about $1000. I have an Arc Audio FD 4150, so I might keep that being it is a pretty solid amp. For processing, I am keeping the Alpine W505 and the PXA-100. I would still like something a little strong on the midbass side and still want a warmer sound from the tweets, as well as warm overall. The main goal I am changing is the high output. I wouldn't mind be able to reach levels high enough to tailgate with some friends, but not much is needed for that due to the close proximity. So I guess the goal has shifted more to the SQ side of things. I still tend to listen to mostly newer rock, blues, and older rock, occasionally dipping into rap/hip-hop, but I found the better I got everything to sound, the more types of music I listened to. The vehicle is still a 2004 Tahoe, and for mounting locations kickpanels I am guessing are ideal, depending on the midbass I decide on. I guess if I decide on an 8, the doors might work a bit better. Active is back in the picture, because passive might not reach my goals. So I want a budget, most likely with less than what I will make through the sales of old equipment. I will probably end up making about 1200 more, conservative yet practical estimate, and I am already dropping the 1000 on the sub stage. I will need another amp most likely for the highs, I would like to keep the Arc amp for the midbass (~360x2 at 4, or ~190x2 at 8, little underrated). But first I need to decide on some drivers, a midbass and something for the highs. Earlier in the thread there was a decision on horns and they would fit, but I was advised to use the ultras from the guys at ID. Those being too expensive, is there any reason that the CD1es wouldn't work. They never gave me a reason why they wouldn't. I still think that kicks on axis with a 7 or 6.5 and a oversize tweet will work best, maybe tweet in the a-pillar, but would put those a little off axis, around 20-30 degrees to meet in between the passenger and driver position. I am also buying a XS Power 3400d which is $240, possibly a 1200d as a secondary if the primary isn't enough for an extra 180. Also will be buying some SDS MLV and CCF, not sure of price. So I guess for less than 700 maybe, will need drivers and an amp. So thanks for all the help so far and any extra will be greatly appreciated. Oh I did research more on zaphs site, just need some suggestions to see what I need to be working with.

Just wondering what you guys think the best programs for simulatiing frequency response, SPL, and similar things, especially for in car or in room calculations. I have WINisd now, alpha and beta, but they both yield problems on my computer for some reason and I can't seem to figure it out. The programs seem pretty easy to use, maybe I just haven't explored these enough. What do you use, does it cost anything, ease of use, knowledge required, different features....

The BTL truely is a loooooow end monster, I know its box dependent, BUT this beast LOVES to play the low notes. the last set-up was a single type-r 12" on 600 watts RMS, The type-r did NOT play the lows very well,and was NOT very efficent @ 85db@1m. I had the type-R crossed @ 80hz lpf, 18db slope, ssf 30hz. that was in a prefabed box that claimed 32hz tuning and 2cf. net. vol. I had to use bass boost to get the old set-up knockin' in the low notes and I couldn't get it to blend any lower than 80. I have to admit the biggest reason was I had the rear 6x9's, but I quit listening to metal. I would LOVE to kick the guy in the balls that started putting rear speakers in sedans back decks, doors maybe, but nothing good will ever come from speakers that high up behind you. On to the new set-up, The BTL is a VERY EFFICENT subwoofer @ 93db@1m, SO it sounds amazing even turned WAAAAAY down, infact the SQ is UNBELIEVABLE at any volume. The BTL is seeing right around 2000 watts RMS and is crossed @50hz lpf, 18db slope, ssf @30hz. in my custom box tuned @ 32hz. in 5cf net. The BTL gives the lowest octave presents like I have never FELT before.hehe. BUT doesn't like to play above 50hz in my enclosure. As far as the metal and rock sounding better, the BTL does everything its asked with ease. The other BIGGEST reason metal sounds better now is NO REARS. the less drivers the better for the true SQ sound of rock and roll and To many drivers with metal just has to much destructive destortion. The Aura midbass driver is one BMF, and I have to thank NCSU and M5 for the great choice in MIDBASS drivrers.hehe. I can only hope to have them installed soon. Lol, I don't know how much credit I can take over M5..... Hope he sees that.

^ hehe