abmoore

Definately tune higher, 18 Hz is waaayy to low. That tuning is only loud in something with room or cabin gain, which there is none outside. Look into some pro audio drivers on www.parts-express.com. A lot of tuning I see seems to be centered around high 60s to low 70s for outdoor use.

Drool, upgrading! Sick wheels man. Never noticed the taillights, similar to mine, did you paint or tint?

I might just have to stick with the XCONs then for my next build like you said on your thread, and whenever I can put a little money out there, I will try the low tuning idea. I think I really did want to go for the cool factor... well the cool "feeling" factor. Those low test tones and some songs just have that unexplainable feeling I love, but it never moves as much air that I would like it to move. May not be the best musically and I know that, never argued that point lol. But thanks for the support and I will be sure to let you know if I ever go forth with it.

The Rl-p doesn't use the LMS though does it? And there is always the IB3 for HT, can't throw that out.

that crescendo apparently looks a lot better in person, not as gold as the pictures make it out to be. I vote that or the MB Quarts, I picked up a 4x80 and a 4x125, both shipped for combined 280.

I started a topic a while back, here it is 2 Exodus Maelstrom M-21"s - SSA Car Audio Forum If it wouldn't be too much of a hassle to run some plots that would be great. I have also considered BTLs and XCONs. Problem is, this would be my daily driver so I would have to get some pretty badass midbass to keep up down low. Oh yeah, I was going to say more pictures, but looks like you already did. Like the toggle switch idea!

dude I was working out a deal with Kevin for 6 21" Maelstrom-X's, first 4... 2 in the house and 2 in the car, 15Hz tune, then 4 in the car...but not enough port area. We couldn't agree on the deal though. I've been tuning 20Hz and lower for 6 years, all of them but 1 turned out awesome. I did a 4th order bandpass but must have made a mistake. It blew a lot of air but it wasn't audible, wasn't even tactile like the other sub20Hz tunes. Either you can listen to them and do what everyone else does, or, you can experience what they will never ever understand... cuz theyve never actually DONE it. What did he estimate the FR and cabin gain to be?

dammmmmnnnn! That really is going to sound bad (in a good way haha, us kids and our lingo). Did that BTL really bring out the best in metal and rock over your last set up? I don't want to copy your set up but you are making it reallll hard for me Pods look sic too

Eastern N. Carolina's biggest show of the year is this weekend in Greenville Covered By Drop Jaw : Saturday, April 24 - 25, 2010 : Slamsession This is NC's Premier Car & Truck Show now for 17 years. Over 100 classes, FREE camping, original night events (held AT THE FAIRGROUNDS!), extreme hydro contest, burnout contest. $1000 best overall, $500 best car, $500 best truck & $100 for each best of award. All night registration on Friday night. NSPL 3x event More Information Email 753-3203 If you are close to Greenville I have a Termlab. You contact me at Tekno Sound & Security (252)-215-0900 ask for Charles Where in Greenville are you located? I had previous engagements this weekend so I couldn't make it down there, but I probably go down once or twice a month for a visit, I have a few friends that live down there.

No im looking to sell mine and im trying to find what they are selling for online new since I know Im going to be losing a lot but I need it sold. I cant find much online. The places that used to sell it are out of stock and there is nothing on e-bay. What would be a good asking price??? Is it new or used? I might buy it if it is in good working condition, dont really care about the cosmetics. Which means my opinion of what to sell it might be biased lol. But I bought mine refurbed for 600, new they still go for up to 2 grand on some sites, but that is going to be tough to get. PM me if you would like

I don't know why I haven't checked this thread before.... I have been SERIOUSLY missing out. Sweet idea man, everyone has told me my idea of doing 2 maelstrom 21s tuned to 24 Hz would be too low :: You might have inspired to me to go ahead and do it . Once I get the money somehow haha. So you have dont other builds with sub 30 Hz tuning? How did they turn out, I love the feeling from mine, and its only 28Hz.

I believe it is... just what I heard though, there is a vlx- something coming, I guess to take it's place. supposed to be 4000+, again all hear say. Are you thinking of purchasing one?

I'm fine, hope you are too my friend. Yeah, I called the eclipse guy I know, dave something.. he said that 63 is a low cross for those, the FR might be F3, -3dB or F10, -10dB. Either way, we can agree they may not be the best drivers . By the way, your smileys must be wasted, but aside from that... Thanks ryan for clearing that up for us, its always good to have mediator. Also, can't remember if I said, but I changed the phase on my sub as well as a steeper low pass. It actually increased mid bass, or at least the way it is perceived, seemed to sound more like a fluid driver than a localized sub!! As for the tens I don't see how it would hurt to try something like that. Could learn a thing or two. But would I incorporate that with a new component set?

Thanks, I just didn't like the lmao thing I guess. And for voting, just figured it out lol, I'm new to forums, funny thing is I voted you up yesterday when you were very helpful. Now that's behind us, yeah, I probably should have continued on the last topic, my goals changed as well as my budget so I thought I would start this one. I played around with my phase some more (I actually took your advice during that altercation haha) and improved it more. I want to have some more natural sounding highs and more midbass, as well as increased sesnitivity. I have heard others I like much better and there is only so much I can do with these. Plus I like a change every now and then, switch the sound up a little and more experience with different companies. I already have people that want these too, I can buy a set from the profit on these. Glad we got past that tiff, this is much more productive on both of our parts.

Subwoofer Sensitivity - SSA Car Audio Forum There is the formula for sensitivity. What will happen when Fs decreases? Sensitivity will decrease, not increase. Same with Vas. Sensitivity will move in the same direction of those two terms. If one of those two go up, so does SPL. If one of those two go down, so does sensitivity. Sensitivity is inversely correlated to Qes...as Qes increases, sensitivity will decrease. It's all a basic consequence of Hoffman's Law. If you want low frequency extension in a small enclosure (low'ish Fs, small'ish Vas, higher Qes) sensitivity will necessarily be sacrificed. Cool, I just worked out some more senarios. Thank you this has been very helpful, dare I say eye opening. This will definately lead to more educated decisions when deciding what drivers to use and when to use them.

9 if you count the seat for your twin babies in the back. I checked I have a little more space right now than the XL with the third row in, so I should be able to decrease the height and increase the depth, then do vertical slots, or one center vertical slot with more square port area, tune it to 30 Hz, and still have room for batts and amps!!!! Now for a design....

Ohhh you have your third seat in. I have 41.5" basically depth wise. What is yours tuned to. I was thinking 30 Hz with more on the large side of port area.

You are making little sense and you are still wrong, in fact my gain is less than 1/6th. Gain, as I said does not limit the output of the amplifer, given you have the preout V necessary, just the volume where you reach the power... Why would you think that at 1/6th speakers start becoming mechanically limited anyway, gains are set mostly by ear or with a RTA if you have one. And they don't sound horrible... For 200 by the way. I said I do hear the speakers bottoming out... That happens when they are supposed to be high passed 100Hz and instead they are at 63 at 24 db/oct. I KNEW this would cause a dilemma. I didn't care because I knew I was changing soon. By the way, your last sentence was just a tid bit contradicting. Oh, and again, excess power does not blow speakers, clipping does. Headroom is used by many people.

I will go ahead and say it. Spend more on the install than the speakers, the difference between a 300 dollar component set and a 900 dollar set won't matter with an improper install. Where do you want to mount them? Do you have deadening yet? After that, we can reccommend a good set. And are your subs ported or sealed.

Your build log is amazing!!! It is really going to help with all of the detailed, quality, step by step pictures and descriptions. I wanted to see someone fiberglass those doors and fit an 8 in there :: That box does look really good, do the ports along the bottom affect the sound since it is so close to the back, it almost seems like it would act as another port lol. What are the dimensions of that box again? 49.5 x looks to be 28 x whats the depth, yes that was an odd way of asking. The reason I ask is because I would need to fit my batts in front of the box, behind the seat, as well as my amps, unless I use the space to the sides to hold some of that. Wonder if I could just slightly change it by changing the horizontal to vertical slot ports and what effect that would have, I would at least have a spot for my amp rack and batteries.

Gain doesn't control wattage, it is used to match the desired max output of your amp and match that with other amps, and you can't do the math like that. There are many other variables, like that amp is capable of far over 320 watts, and the speaker does not work up to 100 watts, then just blow... They are bottoming out because they are rated for a 100 Hz highpass, my sub stage is crossed so low I have to compromise and risk them bottoming out. Plus, only at full volume does a head unit put out the closest it will come to maximizing pre out voltage. Not to mention music is dynamic, that 100 watts is not actually what the speakers see.... LMAO? Really? Make sure you don't say something that ignorant before you LMAO..... Maybe you should research instead of falsely patronizing people. I know I am not all knowing, I am not even close, but at least I do not try and mock someone based on asking for help. That's what this forum is for. And even worse, people who are trying to learn that read this thread might believe what you said and go spread it around, or worse, implement that in their system. Who's laughing now...

I have plenty of edead on my sheet metal and framing, although I hear that was a waste, and some ccf. All I am missing is the ccf and mlv, will that help midbass any more than the deadener?

I wouldn't mind giving them a little extra, I don't like pushing amps all the way, I like headroom also just wanting to see what they do at .5, there are some results out there just wanted to verify. My electrical wouldn't like that very much, one ohm sounds good.

Why should my gain be set at 1/6th, it depends on what my attentuation in my eq is set to as well as how it matches up with my sub, I am turning it up to 26 and my maximum volume is 35, so I would say that is pretty good. But the phasing page was helpful, I never thought of doing it with a passive set before. My left tweeter has a huge dip in it compared to my right, I will change that first and see how that goes. I still would like to try another set, the midbass is really not up to par in these IMO. But if I can experiment enough with these and get good results, I might hold on to them.