cobra93

Just tell them the guy (recipient) is a vet and he's checking it for worms.

You need to ask them some specific questions on what you'll be getting for $400.00. The website has some nice looking enclosures, but that really doesn't mean anything. Most of what I see on loslabs.com are fiberglass enclosures, but I can't tell how well built they are from pics. You need to know exactly what he's doing for you cash. Applying resin to mdf doesn't make it stronger. It can be used to seal the seams, but bracing will make it studier. Higher resonant frequency.

Well some people are more responsible than others. Some people just can't be trusted with a potato gun, way too much responsibility.

Thanks jay-cee! I do appreciate you input. I'm still toying with this idea. My big problem is I'm high passing my mids about 60hz. and they're lacking as well on the same material, so I've got more then one choice to make. Three actually.

All electronics are installed in my car Heaunit & Amps. I will build some enclosures for the fronts and place them on the front footwell (like kickpanels) 1 for driver side, 1 for passenger side. with enough lenght of speaker wires to be tap on the amps inside my car. then I will place the SA-8 (with box) in their trunk again with enough lenght of cables to tap the sub on the amp inside my car. Finally the customer will give his favorite cd, insert it in the heaunit in my car, play it. Then customer will sit inside his car CLOSE his eyes and listened to the sound. In this manner they will have close glimpse on what its like in their car. rather than inviting them to sit in mine. ITS GOING TO BE A Sundown SA-8 Challenge "Listened before you buy" I glad to see you didn't run away screaming as your thread went a little off topic. People are trying to make sure there isn't any misinformation, that's all. I don't think the sub portion will be hard to implement, but the front speakers may not be so easy to aim correctly. Good luck with this I hope it goes as well as you think it will. I believe this has already been asked, but what is your motivation for all this, selling installs or products?

All electronics are installed in my car Heaunit & Amps. I will build some enclosures for the fronts and place them on the front footwell (like kickpanels) 1 for driver side, 1 for passenger side. with enough lenght of speaker wires to be tap on the amps inside my car. then I will place the SA-8 (with box) in their trunk again with enough lenght of cables to tap the sub on the amp inside my car. Finally the customer will give his favorite cd, insert it in the heaunit in my car, play it. Then customer will sit inside his car CLOSE his eyes and listened to the sound. In this manner they will have close glimpse on what its like in their car. rather than inviting them to sit in mine. ITS GOING TO BE A Sundown SA-8 Challenge "Listened before you buy" I think stated somewhere earlier in this post, alot of concentration to the front stage is needed if your going for "true SQ" ... rather than just good sub stage ... just a suggestion bro ... I don't think cydacoustics is looking for an competition quality sound, just a good clean, compact system that others can hear. "Try before you buy" , but he doesn't want people in his car.

Thanks for all the responses! jay-cee> you have me puzzled. If it works so well and you like it so much, why would you be looking to sell it? cheese20323> good to hear it works for you! Tirefryr> I don't think it's just a parametric eq., but there is that thing called marketing hype, so maybe it is. _______ I have a 5 band adj. parametric eq. in my head unit now, I'll try it again, but I don't think the mid bass/ bass sounds "correct" any more when my mids start to get louder. They sound muddy/pushed to hard. ________ I may be at there limit already. I have not tried the eq on the sub, it only goes down to a 63 hertz center freq.. Skullz> I've heard of Audacity before, but never used it. I'll do some research on it tonight. todd.brust> That is exactly why I started this thread. Does this work as they say or is it hype. What bothers me, a little, is why do I need a gain knob. If it does it's job properly, I wouldn't think a knob wouldn't be necessary. __________ I believe most people wouldn't buy it without a gain knob, just like most people I've run across want bass boost on there amp, I've never needed to use it. ///M5> I don't know where I'd put them. I could try using the "cone of confusion" and play with some larger mids behind me,in addition to the (4) sls's in the doors, but I'm running out of room. ______If I could figure out how to protect them, I'd pull the (4) 6-12" sls's out of the doors and try (4) 8" mids in the floor right in front of the seats. The trucks frame runs right down the center of both footwells, I could put two 8's in the floor on each side, but I don't know if I could keep ______ water, dirt and snow of my shoes/boots from accumulating on the cones over time and destroying the mids.

I've been looking at the audio control epicenter. I would like to put some Iron Maiden, Judas Priest, Molly hatchet and so on in the cd player and actually have some bass. I know there are a few different bass restoration processors out there and I have a basic understanding of how they work. I've been searching this topic for better then a week now, but the info. I like to know doesn't seem to be easy to find. I see videos where a turn of the knob makes your subs start "doing work". Most of the topics I run across are either useless videos or "my subs are blown up". What I can't find is are they worth it? Yes there may be more output at the turn of a knob, but does it sound "correct", as if it was recorded today? 25-30 years ago there didn't seem to much info below 50-60 hz. in the recordings possibly due to the equipment available to reproduce it. I like to hear from people that have actually heard one in use.

I only have experience with the TB w3 bamboo drivers and the fountek FR88ex's. I'm using the FR88ex's high passed at 200 hertz, 12db per oct., driven by a jl 300/2 . I'm not going easy on them, power wise. I don't know if the w3- 1878's are more like the w3-1364sa's or the FR88ex's as far as off axis response, but I'm using the FR88's at ~ 15 degrees off axis(in reference to both speakers) and I'm mostly happy with the top end. I assume this is the difference between a speaker with a dustcap (dome) and a phase plug, I don't really know, but the w3-1964sa's definitely lost more top end off axis then the FR88's. I looked at the w3-1878's and they have a very different, to me ,phase plug. I'm curious to know how they perform off axis, on the top end, if you wind up trying them I'd love to hear your opinion of them. In fact I'd like to hear your opinion of any wide-banders you try out.

cydacoustics> After I was disappointed with my first enclosure,4-sa-8's in a 3.2 cf net. tuned to 32 hertz. I put 2 sa-8's in a .75 c.f. enclosure tuned to 32 hz., this was much more to my liking. It had a much flatter response in my ranger. Something that hasn't been addressed yet, I understand what you're trying to accomplish, but how is my question. Do you plan on using the radio or trying to start two cds at the same time in two different cars or just put the sub in the other car and let it play?

///M5 is stating that his enclosures overall outside dimensions adds up to 3 c.f. , which is the gross volume dimension. Small enclosures require a very long port to achieve a low (~30hz.) tuning. If you're using an external port, it's still part of the enclosure and your .8 c.f. gross is not accurate. Net volume is the chamber the speaker resides in after subtracting any bracing and the speaker displacement. Gross volume includes the port, if vented, and is the outside volume displacement. It doesn't matter if the port is internal or external, it's still part of the system and must be considered part of the total (gross) enclosure volume. It doesn't matter what one or two people call something, but what is accepted as fact. People interchange the description: "wheel cover" and "hub cap", but they aren't the same thing.

Do you mean the 1878's? Just curious.

Everything is looking great so far! That is an interesting workbench you have there. A ranger perhaps? Keep up the good work!

While I'm no expert by any means and I owe thanks to ///M5 as well as others for helping me complete my project. I went the WB/ mid bass route in my ranger. The logs are in my sig. I paired them with (4) peerles sls's #830946 and the system sounds great to my ears, however I wish I could have made room for some 8's instead of the 6-1/2's. I tried the tang band w3's and the fountek FR88's on the dash and I'm very happy with the FR88's. The FR88's seemed to handle being pushed harder while staying cleaner than the W3's. I may try adding a tweeter in the spring, not sure if it's the 88's or my ears, but cymbals don't seem "airy" as I'd like. The 88's do roll off on the top end, but still sound amazing for only 3". I need to change out my HU first. In my limited experience this is one hell of a great front stage, especially for the amount of money I have in all 6 drivers, ~$230.00.

If you mean you had the speaker wires hooked up backwards on the amp( pos. to neg. and neg. to pos.) no it wouldn't cause any damage. You should have tried the sub wired both ways to see which way had more bass, less cancellation, but no damage would result from this. If you had the coils wire opposite of each other the sub wouldn't have done much but heat up the coil.

This doesn't help either, but do you ever feel like telling them to get out and walk or is it just me.

Your vehicle's resonate frequency is where it's loudest, a ported box is loudest a few db above port tuning. You try to have one help the other so you have turbo bass at a certain frequency. Jeezy - Air Force is around 40hz Thank you! Sorry I was unclear, but turbo bass is what I am looking for lol. So since that song is really loud in my car, Tune to 37hz or 43hz? If you're looking for the one song and loud at 40 hertz on that one song, then 37hz., not 43hz. louder, slightly above tuning freq. of the enclosure. Make sure you raise the sub/infrasonic filter to compensate.

Well from you last statement you're looking for a specific freq. to tune you enclosure to, not necessarily you resonant freq.. Yes/ no?

Somebody correct me or elaborate on my response, but I believe you need to measure the sub outside the car first. Then measure it inside the car and compare the two. I believe the tuning/response of the box can/will skew the the results of a test done only in the car. You said you only have your ears and a DMM, but I'd think a cheap RTA would do what you need it to. I remember reading about this in the past, but I don't remember the details, sorry. I believe you'd need to have a flat in car response first, good luck with that, to only use your ears or allot of testing. Someone smarter then I will chime in soon enough I'd think. Also: You said you want spl not a fart box, but if your tuning to your resonant freq. I believe you will end up with a high tuned fart box, so I'd be more specific as to your goals and you'll get "better" answers.

Huh?? Why wouldn't you want to use Pro Mode, that is the whole point with that HU. Perhaps I am misreading your comment, but I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish if I am reading it right. Apparently with the 8533, unlike the other eclipse H.U.'s you don't choose a mode. You have the bal/fad/low/mid and high adjustments like any other radio. When you go to the T.A. or Para E.Q. you are in Pro mode and both are active at the same time, I can deal with that. I don't , however , like the fact that it will send full range signal through the front/ rear or high/ mid rca's only when the sub/ low rca's are turned off. As soon as you turn on the sub/ low rca's the H.U. automatically high passes the front/ rear rca's somewhere around 80 - 100 hertz, there's no way to stop this. When I turn on the sub in the speaker menu it really kills the low end from the sls's. I'll be happier when I put a H.U. that isn't fighting with me over crossover points.

:slayer: :slayer: :slayer: :slayer: You have no idea, well maybe you do! :woot: :woot: I just can't figure out how to mount his doors on my truck!!!! If I do J will will not need keys to get in his car the next morning! where are my doors? Sorry brother.

LMAO......it's hilarious you noticed that as it drives my dad crazy. He's constantly giving my crap about the squeaky hinge. I went over to use his garage Sunday to finish up, and as soon as I was parked in the garage he came out with the can in-hand, stated "I'm tired of listening to this pucking door" and coated it with the grease. Dads are good for that sort of thing.

That is the information I was looking for. Thanks for you quick response! I'll check some dimensions and make my decision.

Ha Ha. You give me way too much credit man. No way in hell did I make those covers. Amazon.com baby! hey were easy as fawk to put on. I used to chew Copenhagen, but got tired of driving all over town trying to find a can with a good date on it. Been rolling with the Grizz for a few years now. I wasn't assuming you made the covers, but that you installed them. I have seem enough shows where new vinyl/leather was installed on seats to make me think it was not worth the effort, not enough patients on my part, great job!

I have looked at the chart you have posted many times and in the end I guess it leaves me confused. I understand that using one battery for the vehicle will have less reserve for the stereo system as opposed to multiple batteries. My understanding is that the battery is there as a, "buffer", for lack of a better term. It is my understanding that the battery will deliver amps "quicker" than the alternator can react, which is why more batteries can stabilize voltage with a heavy amp draw. I understand that the chart posted is very general in terms of what battery can support "XXX" amount of wattage. What I'd like to know before making a decision on which battery I may need by looking at the chart, would be what are the parameters your using to make the chart? Are you looking at maintaining a certain voltage at a specific amp draw? If so what voltage are you considering to be acceptable? I know that if your alternator can only produce 100 amps and the system can demand more than the alt. is capable of producing you will not "solve" the problem of decreased voltage output and an eventually have a dead alt. I realize you are only providing a larger reserve to draw amps from until the battery(s)/alternator is overwhelmed. At the moment I have a 2000 ford ranger. I have 4 runs of 1/0 (2 pos., 2 neg.) devoted to the stereo system. I have a 200 amp alternator and have upgraded the alt. to battery cable to 1/0 as well. I have no grounds using the frame of the vehicle, all connections are to and from the battery terminals. At the moment I am powering 1> jl 300/2, 1> sax125.2 @ 2ohms and 1> saz 2000d @ 1 ohm. I haven't measured my actual voltage drop yet, but the factory voltage gauge can drop pretty low with sustained bass output. I know that music is dynamic and that the possible amp draw is more than the alt is able to produce if I were driving around playing tones, but I don't. The current battery is a cheap 550 cca battery and is the only battery in the truck at the moment. I am undecided as to add another battery or build a new tray for the largest battery I can fit under the hood. I look forward to your response so I can make my own informed decision, not just to keep adding batteries until the problem is overcome. Thanks for your time.