Adrian_D

First of all you don't measure without a load. What happens is when you wire a load the maximum voltage output drops (a lot, depending on the actual impedance) and the "settings" are not going to be worth anything. Are you sure you are measuring the outputs right ? IE measuring across the plus and minus terminal:)

I had 6 feet of 16ga and changed to 3 feet of 10ga. How far away do you keep the amps from the subs if you need that much wire ?

Big plus that you vented the midrange pods, those things like large enclosures Keep up the good work

All this bike talk really makes me go out and ride but my bike is too smal. Need to find a replacement and get myself into shape.

Needs more rubber Are those 31's ? Or 33's ? They are 34x10.5's, I will probably put 39's or 40's but maybe only 37's We will see. The first part was to built the "beast" SO it could handle that big of meats!!! i.e. 1-Ton axles, but still need lower gears. Right now the springs are only 4" lift, but I made custom spring mounts SO its closer to 6" right now. ALSO there is NO body lift BUT I cut the bottom 6 inches off of the body is the reason IT lOoks so tall. I need to build tube nerf bars. I plan on installing little flater and longer and softer front and rear leaf springs probably first (the reason for the custom adjustable spring mounts), then I will see what Tire fits best. Wow, the body sure makes the tyres look small No body lift is the way to go ! What kind of 1-ton axles ? Front looks like a D60 Chevy...+ 14bolt rear ? your on it. Yes the front is D60 Chevy and 14 bolt full float w/detroit in thr rear, the gear ratio is only 4.10s. Fuck, this thing is a money pit. SO fun to drive though, its a convertable, a hot-rod and a 4-wheel drive all in one. I'd love some full-width's under the Cherokee Or even an old Bronco for fun.

No bov ? Can't imagine such compressor surge on a modern race car.

Do something about the shackle angles too

Needs more rubber Are those 31's ? Or 33's ? They are 34x10.5's, I will probably put 39's or 40's but maybe only 37's We will see. The first part was to built the "beast" SO it could handle that big of meats!!! i.e. 1-Ton axles, but still need lower gears. Right now the springs are only 4" lift, but I made custom spring mounts SO its closer to 6" right now. ALSO there is NO body lift BUT I cut the bottom 6 inches off of the body is the reason IT lOoks so tall. I need to build tube nerf bars. I plan on installing little flater and longer and softer front and rear leaf springs probably first (the reason for the custom adjustable spring mounts), then I will see what Tire fits best. Wow, the body sure makes the tyres look small No body lift is the way to go ! What kind of 1-ton axles ? Front looks like a D60 Chevy...+ 14bolt rear ?

Needs more rubber Are those 31's ? Or 33's ?

SIngle sub setup, 60A measured current, going from 16ga to 10 ga for each terminal and saw zero gain. The cable runs are generally short. IMO don't bother with dual 8ga per terminal.

Yay for progress ! How big are the dash pods ?

Off to wash the car. I really need to find some time for clay bar and polish

I love people making claims by eyeing up a product

I'd LOVE a 6+ liter diesel in the Jeep. Would probably twist the unibody at the first go-pedal

In the f250 I drove long distance in we averaged 21mpg on a trip to Chicago and back. A fair amount of city included. This was stock, no tune and no engine mods. Maybe an exhaust but I don't think so. We calculated with paper and miles on the odo. I drove steady and never gunned it though. Never pulled from a stop fast. Just gentle large truck econ driving. It was one a mix of regular deisel and some home brew bio. There is literally hundreds of HP and TQ hidden under the "green" parts put onto those Ford engines. 'Tis the beauty of Diesel. Need more power? Crank in more fuel. Works up to a point, need to be careful with the EGT's since diesels are opposite of petrol. The more fuel, the higher the EGT's. On my engine for instance fuel delivery is governed by boost pressure. Add more boost and you have more fuel too. Can't wait to get all the parts in for oil cooling, after-run cooling and the heat wrap so I can add more boost safely Matt2, on some diesels the EGR is useful in handling temperature spikes. 30MPG seems a lot, I think I can get 27-28MPG in the Jeep if I get smaller high-way tires but it's a lot lighter than a Ford truck

Welcome ! And x2 on the pics .

Summitracing can go screw themselves, I've found connectors for WAY cheaper than their connectors. And they should ship soon Just need to change 5-6 wires on the backhoe, change the burnt connectors and I'm done with the electrical system.

Let's keep eDuh out of the discussion. Even if the products are worth their weight in gold I'm not supoorting a company with bad rep.

You are a brave man for going with 10's in doors. It's going to be WILD

How come some people are so stupid ? Some guy is selling a Zapco 750 on ebay, it's missing the mosfet clips the idiot said he ran it like that and didn't get hot. DUH, no heat transfer from the mosfets to the radiator.

If you take out the EGR you can get a heck of a lot more out of it too. Amazing how much power is locked up in those things. I may or may not know someone who runs his deisel on used hydrolic fluid that he gets for free from someone else too. gets about 21mpg too. Some diesels work ok without the EGR, some don't But there is a lot of power / liter to be made from modern diesels.

^That^ brings back memories Nice work guys !

6" port is too small for a single 15. Go for 2 or even 3, IMO. Agreed that it's easier to test and tune with an external aero. Too bad you are so far away. I'd send you a pair of 8 inch flares Personally, for the xxx I'd build bigger boxes. 4+ cubes in your case. My personal best with an xxx 18 was 147.9dB, 6cf and 12 inch aero. Couldn't fit a bigger box and have it work right in the car.

12 feet of the ground.......... The only sure way keeping fat chicks out

If the fan holes are visible after it's installed, they would look better painted black.