Adrian_D

Yep, that's right, Transylvania http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-5791PT/ Now to find them local and / or cheaper.

Kragens, Checkers won't work. I'm on the other side of the globe Local electric shops are clueless. Only version I found online (that I can order) is something small, for 18ga. I need up to 12ga.

Any ideas where I can find such a connector ? I need both male and female Tried searching online but came up with either too small versions (under 5A) or too big (over 50A)

That's driver's door open, sensor in the passenger side kick ? For shits and giggles I'll measure as soon as I have the TL back

And now, see the amazing Adrian D go for 160!!! I wish We'll see how it does with way more power at the competition in may.

I agree. It's got the grill of an old gullwing, which I think looks dumb If that's what they were trying for, then they succeeded... Blasphemy, nothing from a 300SL looks dumb. Aaron, you beat me to it with the pics. Saw them a few mins ago on Yahoo and wanted to post them.

Its not rocket science, BUT does require ashit load of patience. Just replace one wire at a time until every wire is fixed, this way you don't get confused. IF you don't have the patience find someone who does. I do have the patience. And the service manual Took it all out today and layed out on the floor it doesn't look half bad. I'm going tomorrow to see an identical machine and take pics of whatever part of the wiring that was burnt beyond recognition.

If you can afford to replace, then thats always quicker. I Personally like working on electrical, SO depending on the logistics of fixing I might just get to repairing. time VS. money I guess. Maybe after it's all out it'll look easier to fix. Seems like the us harness is different. If that's true, fixing is my only option.

Fixing the electrical system after the fire is going to be fun Couldn't get the whole harness out today. Stil debating on fix vs change it completely.

My headlights are hella !

Well, talked to the dealer and he's coming to pick up the sub tomorrow. I'll lay out the details for him and letting the sub as it is now, don't want to glue it and get blamed if it fails because of the spacing problem.

bumpy I'm thinking about gluing the spider and then pressing the cone untill the surround surface is where it needs to be. Yay ? Nay ? Or new recone ?

depends, in all honesty, one tiny air leak isn't going to make any audible difference. Let alone several tiny air leaks. None of that is audible. I strongly disagree. Have you ever even heard a leaky sealed enclosure? Yes, but we're not talking about a sealed enclosure are we? Also, Richard Clark must be a moron then. Also, I don't give a flying fuck about Richard Clark. I suspect you don't know who the guy is then. Mellow out Duran On sealed enclosures the only time I could hear leaks was either on music and sitting right next to the enclosure or playing test tones trying to find the leaks.

x2 x3. When that thing dries, it's one tough material. Much better than caulk.

That was an ugly injury

Thanks Don Ganso To be honest, I didn't calculate actual tuning, just tested untill the score dropped. Should be very close to 50hz.

Happy Easter guys !

That's what you get for buying a btl 12 I'm struggling the same every time but I'm lucky to have the port opening right next to the sub.

Result of friday's testing : Same conditions as the 149.3 and verified 3 times in 30 minutes, so it's not a fluke. I'm expecting close to 151 with a good battery and engine on. Haven't resined the box yet

Go for the umbrella idea. I've even seen it done from wire mesh then deadened to actually act as an umbrella. Get creative

If the baffle is only 3/4" thick you could put the sub in slanted and wired. If not, you will probably have to connect the wires after the sub is in the box. Another option is to have somebody hold the sub, magnet in the box and wire it then.

Finally had some time to do the measurements. I measured from the bottom of the former to the spider - former joint, to the spider mounting surface and to the surround mounting surface. All measurements in inches. Drawing is here, easier to understand than some random numbers Seems like on the new one the spider sits lower and the cone sits higher but the spider is very saggy on the old one. Should I go forward with the recone or stop and ask for a new one ?

No consequences in facing the subs up. Suspensions are stiff enough to not worry about sagging. If you are careful and listen to what the sub tells you, the Xcon should be ok with the RF 1500. In a real-world application you are never going to see such power actually applied to the sub. Mostly because of musical content and because of the impedance function.

Maybe I should have put a disclaimer on that statment ,I was simply trying to make a point, I would not recommend someone run a Flatlyne on 2k + I really hope this would not cause someone to put 3X the power to there FL's this would not be my intention . I was just pointing out. A disclaimer like your last post is much better

So is "impossible"