Adrian_D

I got the 1 point I needed to pass a class. 1 more year of free college

Very impressive !

Sounds like my kind of fun FTL ! After 10-15 burps over 145 during testing in my car I was acting like someone brainwashed me. Got any pictures of this setup ? I'm going to start something in my Cherokee and want to get in the 150+ club

Mothertrucker ! I scored 26 at the exam yesterday and 27 was the minimum to pass. Just sent the prof an email basically begging him to find an extra point. Fingers crossed, he's one of the most absurd prof's untill now

Turned out awesome ! And Happy Birthday !

that kinda saddens me. They're actually good amps

Buy one first. Go from there

Offtopic.

Quick review : Atomic 5000.1 = almost the same thing as the AB 500.1 (minor diffrences in the pre-amp section) And the AB 500.1 is exactly the same thing as the IA 40.1 and a generation of the Hifonics Goliath (can't remember which) There also is the AB 700.1 which is similar to the Atomic 7000.1 Before going off on the "my buddy said this amp is crap" routine start doing a bit of reaserch.

No worries I thought about those but I forgot to mention them

AB amps are temperamental when they blow I would replace all diodes and all of the small tranzistors in that area. That way you make sure there isn't a faulty piece somewhere to give you a hard time

They look the same. Might be from the protection circuitry. I remember some of the diodes from the protection circuits blew on my home amp.

I was waiting on this Sorry sir, but the Directed is a very stout amp. Just like the amps it shares boards with. Directed 2400d: Viper D2500.1: Memphis 2000D : JBL BPx 2200.1 : Same thing (minor diffrences in N-fet and P-fet count on the BPx). If you want, I've got the schematic handy and I can email it to you to convince yourself Solid 2500w I still regret I sold my Viper. You can run them all at 1 ohm with a bit of cooling help.

Nice score bro !

If the volvo is that spl car you've been working on, then ok. If not, that's not so safe dude... Yes, it's that spl car... I'd never run without a fuse in a daily driver. Haven't worked on it since the beggining of the summer vacation. Transmission broke down coming home from a competition (~100mi away from home, at 1 am). Cleared out all the gear, called a friend who lived nearby and left the car where it broke untill we found something to bring it back home with After that I started to seriously consider building something smaller to put in the Jeep strictly for spl use...

Ab 500.1 = almost the same thing as the Atomic 5000.1. The 7000.1 is a totally diffrent beast.

After blowing one fuse on the Volvo, I decided to ditch them completely in that car

If you want to run the Orion at 0.5 you will be spending a fair amount on getting a good electrical system. Even the Directed is going to need quite a bit of juice. I'm going with Jim on this one. Get the Orion and run it at 2 ohms. Less risk of failure and less strain on the electrical system

Thaks guys I'll look for more pictures worhty of posting

damn! that amp is a beast what eclipse amp u got? j/w EA4000 75wpc at 4 ohms.

Just received an empty email from [email protected], subject : [No subject]

Time to sell my Eclipse 4ch and buy this: http://icondealerservice.com/catalog/index...mp;productId=29 I can't believe it's $1k off !

I'll have to agree with 95Honda. Copper is copper. Can't go wrong with welding cable

When measuring the amp output, just connect the alligator clip to one output terminal and the probe to the other. Shouldn't matter if you connect the clip to positive or negative in this case. Good luck finding a resistive load that can handle high power For setting gains, use the speaker, don't use a resistive load.

Sorry LB but you fail. That comment wasn't directed at you. Lighten up. Absolutely no need to repost a bajilion pics and start active defensive. And your ss xxx doesn't use XBL^2