Randal Johnson

And that is an asinine statement. On axis, off axis and aiming are all very install and driver dependent. Knowing nothing about either means you cannot comment. Of course you are running poor car audio drivers that are compromised to perform (or at least they should be if not, ouch) off axis. Don't draw your conclusions from what you have... See the difference here ... If someone done this to you, how would you feel ?? Same subject ... and this was given only a suggestion ... btw, you have never heard MY (in my vehicle, not the brand) drivers, why would you make such a bold statement in this thread ???

You are certainly entitled to your opinion, so I'm not "arguing" per say, just offering a different point of view. (I like to play devils advocate) If you try to optimize the stereo for both seats in an automobile, you are necessarily going to have to make sacrifices to the sound for both seats as well. It's a trade-off, you can't have the best of both worlds. You can't optimize performance at both listening positions. On the other hand, if you optimize for a single seat you can reduce the number of sacrifices you are going to have to make to the sound at that one listening position. Sure, one of the trade-offs is that it sounds like monkey butt from the passenger seat.....but if that means better sound in the drivers seat, where most of us involved in car audio sit....than many consider that a beneficial trade-off. Good sound in two seats, or better sound in one seat. At this point, Impious made great conversation and a different experience from what I was use to in Car audio ... VERY PROFESSIONAL !!!

In keeping this on topic to the thread, simply I wouldn't bother with T/A until I changed out the drivers completely. So what you are saying here is that Drew has shitty components and needs to be replaced, And the most dedicated moderator in SSA refuses to give advice on a proper install with what the op has to work with ??? I never said that. Please read for once without emotion. The thread was about T/A, you asked what I would do in his shoes, I simply answered that I wouldn't bother with T/A. Why are you so fricking bitter? I was only trying to help out the op and things were going great, and instead of discussing the differences like Impious did. you acused me of not knowing what I was doing. I just gave suggestions, thats all. If I was wrong on anything, lets discuss it so maybe we all can learn something in stead of pointing out the stuff we don't know ...

In keeping this on topic to the thread, simply I wouldn't bother with T/A until I changed out the drivers completely. So what you are saying here is that Drew has shitty components and needs to be replaced, And the most dedicated moderator in SSA refuses to give advice on a proper install with what the op has to work with ???

Awesome !!!

Sorry for jumping back into this thread but I would like to know that if there is a cut out hole between the enclosure and the door pannel ?? like where the stock speaker use to be ... or something ?? Have you measured that door / area for what we talked about ?? will they fit with a slight diagonal direction, kinda like how they are now ??

Anyone notice the title of this thread ?? ... mainly the sub title ... Thats better ... Carry on guys ...

yes sir ... ok ... if you say so ... was there a theory ? i was just sayin it looks cheap for the price and no .... i wouldnt buy a sub with no motor even if 1000 folks would say how good it sounds btw. good luck with your gear and competitions I understand bro ... I tried out my subs before I bought them. I think everyone should do the same ... Every product, not just subs ... and thank you, I need all the luck I can get ...

Let me guess ... If you've seen one sub, you've seen them all. or maybe if its not a pure 10 in. "monster" SPL sub, its not worth a krap ... huh ... Sir, I believe in your theory here about as much as I would believe that the chick on M5///'s signature would actually have anything to do with him ...

to SSA Bro ... Awesome looking enclosure !!!

M5, sir would you please tell us, If it was your ride, how would you set it up ??? Bassahaulic, I give up bro ... I gave my suggestions, I hope it helps a little. Thanks, Randal ... I just wanted the say thank you again for these kind words. If you need me, you know where to find me. oh yea ... M5///, if you must point out my mistakes, you could atleast spell my name correctly (its on every one of my post) ...

Awesome Pics !!! Very nice Ride !!!

to SSA !!!

I have a set of the CS60CF's What do you think about em?

Don't tear it up before i get to hear it again ... Awesome Bro !!!

up until this post, this thread was very professional ... I can't believe you can't believe this. REALLY simple to look at the t/s and figure out what is going to happen. One quick question for you that should clear this up. How do you think they do it at concerts? If you've NEVER heard a vehicle that can then you should find someone who actually knows how to do an install and listen to their system. Now you are getting somewhere, however that is going to mean changing ALL of your front stage...unless of course you give us more of an insight as to what "decent staging" is to you. My definition says there is not way in hell with your doors as they are you are even getting close. No electronics can solve that many issues. Height has NOTHING to do with the amount of midbass. Two completely different things there. The only advantage of raising your mids up are to raise your stage. I agree on the bold, but this is a car with a ton of compromises. Need is subjective, but it will help when applied correctly. And that is an asinine statement. On axis, off axis and aiming are all very install and driver dependent. Knowing nothing about either means you cannot comment. Of course you are running poor car audio drivers that are compromised to perform (or at least they should be if not, ouch) off axis. Don't draw your conclusions from what you have... What happened here ??? M5///, I had a conversation with Drew at world finals this year. I only spoke on comments we had already talked about ...

Height has NOTHING to do with the amount of midbass. Two completely different things there. The only advantage of raising your mids up are to raise your stage. I thought that this (bringing the stage up) was the reason why the thread was here ... I NEVER said having the 6.5s as high as possible in the doors has ANYTHING to do with the amount of midbass thats in that vehicle ... I said that it helps to enhance the stage by bringing the drivers closer to the tweeters for a better seemless stage ... BIG DIFFERENCE here ... But having 2 6.5s in each door should be ALOT of midbass, don't you think ?? and if needed extra, referr back to the post you quoted me on ... And that is an asinine statement. On axis, off axis and aiming are all very install and driver dependent. Knowing nothing about either means you cannot comment. Of course you are running poor car audio drivers that are compromised to perform (or at least they should be if not, ouch) off axis. Don't draw your conclusions from what you have... At what point in this entire thread, let alone this post, did I say ANYTHING about my vehicle ??? Drew is running RD drivers. This has NOTHING to do with anything that is in my vehicle ... At what point in this thread did I reccomend ANY product, let alone the drivers that I run, to Drew in this thread ??? I apologise to SSA and Drew (bassahaulic) for ranting on this, But M5///, you were way out of line here ...

best of luck with your build !!!

Awesome !!!

Awesome ...

6.5s ... My recomendation ... well ... check out the links on my sig ...