ssh

Generally you will always have distortion to some degree, normally if it's inaudible then it's likely not hurting anything, technically it all comes down power... You can download some sine waves off the internet, load them into audio program, clip them, and play the files back to back. If your dustcap gets hot pretty quickly and you start smelling coil, these are good indicators that your gain needs to be backed off. I normally just play a mix of my daily tunes and set the gain to where it doesn't get any louder, starts to sound distorted, back it off, play some more music, and go from there. It's not like all music is recorded at the same level, that's what the volume knob and headroom comes in handy. I'm talking about daily setups, not competing, that's completely different.

Or you can just use your ears.

I wasnt too sure how that would work out but figured I'd give it a shot. But after I got the reminder about the tweeter level adjustment on my xover it seems to have solved my problem. Thanks guys. Simple fix for the win!

Sweetness

Might check out Cuisinart too, http://www.cuisinart.com/products/food_processors.html

If you are talking about where the arm rest is on the back seats, yes it does now, a long while back i had cut out the section for it. And i am working on a box that will be porting through that section. Good stuff.

yep, my buget is around the 200 mark I could be wrong but I think you'll have to go used at that price point. At least for Hertz im cool with that as long as they aint beat to hell. Just one thing worth mentioning, there a lot of fake hertz drivers being sold online, especially ebay. If you find some used speakers, ask the person where they bought them from.

Haven't heard them before, I think there a Scandinavian company, not that that means much. SQ is relative, what have you heard in the past? What did you like, dislike? What's your budget? Goals? Mounting depth restrictions, speaker size?

No, passive. I was simply gonna remove the current one's, install the new ones and run them on the existing xover since it's not an issue of the frequencies they play, rather the harshness of them at full tilt. I feel like a total noob though, totally forgot about the level adjustment on the xover for them, it's got -3, 0, 3...it was on 0, just flipped it to -3 but won't be able to test it until tomorrow. Haha, thanks man. Swapping the tweeters out and using the existing crossover network will likely yield bad results.

Did this a while back: The other day: Messing around in photoshop.

But doesn't a sealed enclosure have a much flatter response then ported?

Purely out of curiosity, I know this will depend on tuning but how large is the bandpass? I know usually you would tune fairly high what would be the usable frequency and most efficient? You can model it up in winisd.

Justin, does the beamer have a ski pass?

yea the amp's fine, i had it running minutes before i tried setting them, was running on about half on each gain level, i just wanted to fine tune them cos i had the time. i'm an electronics technician so i understand how it all works, there wasn't a chance of an error there cos i made double and triple sure everything was as it should be. and as i said, i've set many gains on many amps with this meter without a problem, it's just this amp that's being weird. if it helps i can make a short video showing what's happening. Then you should understand that those speaker outputs MUST be circulating a/c current or else your speakers wouldn't be playing any music. There is nothing magical about the amplifier, either your method of testing or your multimeter is faulty. What happens if you try to read the voltage with the speakers connected? Is the voltage still shown as zero?

I blinged out my icon:

I might try and take some more when I have more space and time.

1920*1080 wallpaper one 1920*1080 wallpaper two Pictures a bit grungy / grainy, I don't have space at the moment to take proper photos.

Shit Teo. I did that once with my jeep, luckily it wasn't at night, and the tailgate was unlocked so I was able to open that and crawl through.

Shogen, you do understand why your voltage is low at idle, and that unless you can spin the alternator faster at idle, nothing you do will fix it, correct? Im not trying to sound condescending, or anything, but I just keep you talking about trying different things, which can certainly help stabilize your voltage, but it wont fix your situation. The alt needs to be spun at a certain rpm to turn on and actually work, but your car idles below this turn on speed. So your alt is running when your driving down the road and you see 14v or whatever, but once your stopped and idling, the alt turns off and produces zero amperage, and your voltage drops to your batteries floating voltage. Once you take off again, rpm goes up, alt kicks on, and wallah 14v Just trying to make the problem more clear if you didn't understand

So your suggesting that those of us with high output alternators that charge at 14.9-15v need to have our charging voltage lowered? Thanks for response Nathan.

Yep, the road was all clear. They showed me the axle and the end with all the grooves, the last half inch broke off. I've cornered hard into this turn for months now, so I guess it finally caught up to me and bit me in the ass.

Oh and I picked up the volvo today. I broke the axle, a small bit of it was broken in the tranny, but after a few hours they were able to fish it out and save me the cost of a new tranny. So now I know, I shouldn't drive my volvo like a sports car.

Sure is. I got the package and it had a big ass lump on the side. Opened it up and the driver was pitched to one side, thankfully everything looks good. If ever I decide to get stupid loud again I can just order another.

I certainly wouldn't let the 8ohm config steer you away, 4ohm and 8ohm would allow for various setups such as one per door, or some nut with 50 per door. From the initial reading and posts, I'm guessing high sensitivity, so even with an 8ohm config they'll still get loud. Now midbass output, that's completely different (regardless of coil config). Correct me if I'm wrong Jacob.