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Cross out the leads on your dmm, what impedance does it read? Now take a reading on the coils, any difference?

Found this on another site: Sounds easy enough, go down to radioshack and get a relay lol or you can use a single pole double throw (spdt) toggle switch from radioshack if you want to switch it.

Trying to play dvd's while driving... ahh. Not sure how the sensor works, perhaps it has voltage when the parking brake is on or vice versa. OP I'm not sure what the sensor wiring looks like or how it connects to the pioneer, so I'm just going off a guess, but you might be able to to hook up a dmm and see when it has power. Then depending on if the circuit is complete (power) with the parking brake on / off you could tell if you could just leave it disconnected or route the wire (pioneer parking sensor wire or what ever) from the headunit to the headunit +12v to trick it. Just a guess here though, I've never messed with double dins and parking sensors Thanx for the response and everything I have read and watched has used a Relay Then why not use a relay?

Trying to play dvd's while driving... ahh. Not sure how the sensor works, perhaps it has voltage when the parking brake is on or vice versa. OP I'm not sure what the sensor wiring looks like or how it connects to the pioneer, so I'm just going off a guess, but you might be able to to hook up a dmm and see when it has power. Then depending on if the circuit is complete (power) with the parking brake on / off you could tell if you could just leave it disconnected or route the wire (pioneer parking sensor wire or what ever) from the headunit to the headunit +12v to trick it. Just a guess here though, I've never messed with double dins and parking sensors

What are you trying to do exactly?

Not everyone has the mids you have. But yea, 63/80 should work fine. What mids do you have bro? And I'll try it, once I do a new enclosure. Ported 3.0 cuft at 32hz Bravox CS60CF AA Carbons are a nice set as well. The bravox are nice too, either way OP you can't go wrong

Confined area being anything other than open air "free space". A lot of people downplay the importance of certain modeled or predicted performance characteristics because the modeling programs can only model performance in basically open air without any close boundaries. This is true for certain performance characteristics such as frequency response. Others are going to be consistent for the most part regardless of the air space the system is playing in. any recommendations for me to try? This will be in quite the open air environment, all subs and port will be facing up, and its a hatchback with an open area to the entire car. It will be more open verse a confined trunk, but the cabin itself is not the same as a open air environment, otherwise there wouldn't be ridiculous amounts of cabin gain

Not everyone has the mids you have. But yea, 63/80 should work fine. What mids do you have bro? And I'll try it, once I do a new enclosure. Ported 3.0 cuft at 32hz If you got decent mids I'd cross the subs lower then 80hz, as both Dvalue and Bassahaulic have attested to. May wanna look into some AA carbon mids, there pretty sweet, tons of xmax too

That's definitely not going to cut it if you plan on running 2500 watts. The amp will get past the alternator voltage and go down to batt voltage pretty easily. So if you're wanting to limit voltage drop, you either need to beef up your alt or get a couple of batts to put near the amp. If you run that amp hard with the kind of electrical, I can easily see you dipping down to the 10's. how do you wire them? was also wondering bout the port measurements r what everHow to wire additional batteries in the rear? If your adding the same type of battery to the rear that's in the front then you can run some 0/1 gauge wire or what ever from the positive terminal on starting battery to the positive terminal on the rear battery, then ground the negative terminal on the rear battery to the chassis like you would an amp. If the rear batts are different then the starting battery then some people add solenoids so the voltage difference between the batteries doesn't cause them to drain each other. Also, solenoids can allow you to play the stereo with the vehicle off and only drain power from the rear batts so you don't kill your starting battery.

Curbs and imports haha. Looks fun. I don't see why a blow through would lower tuning

That's definitely not going to cut it if you plan on running 2500 watts. The amp will get past the alternator voltage and go down to batt voltage pretty easily. So if you're wanting to limit voltage drop, you either need to beef up your alt or get a couple of batts to put near the amp. If you run that amp hard with the kind of electrical, I can easily see you dipping down to the 10's.

Not agreeing or disagreeing this statement since I don't remember the initial post in this thread, but the xcons sound great and get loud doing it. (personally heard) And I just happen to have a saz1500d for sale Any how just throwing that out there, not trying to convince you one way or another.

Exactly. Lights dim due to voltage drop, even if the voltage drop in itself isn't bad (dropping from 15v to 14.5v) the lights will go from being brighter on 15v to lesser on 14.v What you could do is get HIDs. They look cool, their way brighter, you can get bulbs in almost any temp so you can have a normal stock looking color if you don't want some ricey shit, and your lights shouldn't dim. HIDs use a ballast and I don't believe they are effected by voltage drop.

heh, I was thinking of the power input to the amp like it takes xxx amp at 14v to produce xxx watts but since the efficiency of the amp is not 100%, it would require more amperage. Instead of the output power, being final imp at amp with a target wattage(more of a guess) to find voltage. So yeah, makes sense.

You came to the right place my man Nice to hear a little background about yourself, most people that join (including me) never go into detail about themselves except "Hi I'm so and so, and I like bass" For an 8" driver, the sa8s are great, a pair of those wouldn't take up too much room and they'd have a very nice wow factor. My guess is you'll want to run under a 1000watts so you don't need to upgrade your battery / add a battery to the rear / upgrade to a better alternator. Any how, surf around the forum, use the search function (you'll find tons of information, an answer to almost everything hah), and make posts See ya around.

I know, but it's still funny to see. Yeah, only way I'd use it is if I was at 149.9 lol

Transfer to Davis-Monthan AFB later

And don't forget to duct tape around the sub. Hey now, that can actually gain a couple tenths, worth it if you compete in serious shit

Looks cool, plus you can make it the exact length from amp to amp if strapping and with no excess wire hanging around it looks super clean.

Paint the port with flames, automatically adds 3dBs (I don't know how it works, but it does.)

Did you not just read everything Imp typed out?

He could make for a politician

Quite the handful Imp, if you keep replying to all his statements your gonna have carpal tunnel lol

Sound good! Those Dayton binding posts are the ones Andrew from argent audio uses

What's your budget like? And electrical? Shouldn't have any problems fitting a 18" driver in. Comes down to budget. I'd get that used btl posted above or a new n2. 2 12s would have a little less cone area than an 18, but more motor force. Single driver is certainly cheaper too