ssh

Your formula doesn't take into account amplifier efficiency, and your voltage will vary from frequency to frequency, and music is dynamic. You could set the gain to that target voltage and give it a listen and do some tweaking by ear. It's not as hard as everyone makes it out to be...

If your ordering some, get these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245 You'll love them

I believe it would be the later since that's the actual impedance at the amp, but setting the gain using that formula is just a rough guestimate at best. Use your ears instead, turn the gain all the way down, turn your head unit volume up to max listening level. Turn gain up until it sounds distorted, you may have to take a step back from the vehicle to tell, then back it down til it sounds clear.

Order from highest conductivity to lowest. Material ρ [Ω·m] at 20 °C σ [s/m] at 20 °C Temperature coefficient[note 1] [K−1] Reference Silver 1.59×10−8 6.30×107 0.0038 [1][2] Copper 1.68×10−8 5.96 × 107 0.0039 [2] Annealed Copper[note 2] 5.80 × 107 [citation needed] Gold[note 3] 2.44×10−8 4.52 × 107 0.0034 [1] Aluminium[note 4] 2.82×10−8 3.5 × 107 0.0039 [1] Calcium 3.36x10−8 0.0041 Tungsten 5.60×10−8 0.0045 [1] Zinc 5.90×10−8 0.0037 [3] Nickel 6.99×10−8 0.006 Iron 1.0×10−7 0.005 [1] Platinum 1.06×10−7 0.00392 [1] Tin 1.09×10−7 0.0045 Lead 2.2×10−7 0.0039 [1] Titanium So if copper is hard to find, try aluminum, etc

Yes you can, I don't remember off hand which is more conductive steel or aluminum, copper would be best. Have you see the binding posts from parts express? There very nice, no big plastic cutout BS. But you'd obviously have to order that and wouldnt work now.

Turning it off would be completely counter clockwise. I'd just set it around 20hz. So sealed box for 2 sa15s would be 5cubes, and you got 7.5cubes. You shouldnt have any problems just use some common sense when setting the gain.

I think you'll be surprised, sealed boxes generally give a snappier or tighter feeling of bass. Not sure what amp your using but remember it's 600watt rms or whatever will be lower in a large box. I don't know sundowns specs for enclosure volumes for the sa15 off hand, mind posting it? I'm on iPad... I'd turn the ssf down to 20hz, you could go lower but most music doesn't go anywhere near that low so to me it would be pointless

Shouldn't be an issue, just less power handling for the most part, just set the gain and make sure there's no over excursion at full tilt.

I'm digging option one

Happy Birthday.

Come on Bro, that P&S was shit and you know it. Was hanging off and flimsy as fuck. x2, OP, that shit smell up your car at all? What was the adhesive composed of? butyl? asphalt/tar?

^^This. Very sad situation.

what a ghetto fucking mess.

Why? Toggle on the subs I can understand. Toggle on the tweeters with wideband midrange I can sort of understand. But why would you want to kill the midrange or midbass drivers? You have to understand this is the same guy that was going to trade his van for a ford excursion limo for a daily driver. Kryptonitewhite, your videos are awesome don't get me wrong, keep it up

I agree on the above, great driver, great price, should suit you well. You can wire it to 2ohms which is perfect for your amp. But I'd still post dimensions just to make sure you have the volume, and your electrical as you may need to upgrade it, and budget. As to the skar comment, the Fi BTL is a superior driver in itself, but having four skar 12s would have greater cone area, likely greater output, but it will cost more and you may not have the volume for the box

nice. they do bump pretty hard but they are dual 4s so i only get like 6 apiece. there are just so many options with these fi its just deciding what to get. Tough tough.

Yeah, sounds like you could sell it and get something with traditional recones.

You come across as sounding like a dick when the FIRST thing you say is you wanna rattle peoples houses as you drive by. Sure I play my stereo at full tilt almost all the time, but a lot of us try to respect others as well. turning it down in neighborhoods, parking lots, intersections, etc, but you don't need some bass lesson from me lol Perhaps if you would have said some crazy windshield flex or of the sort, then people wouldn't get a bad impression. Any how, want to post some pics of your hatch / cargo area with dimensions. Whats your electrical like? stock? any extra batteries, high output alts? Whats your total budget for this endeavor? And the Fi drivers WILL make you a believer

they are also documented just as well as this build. currently got 11000 views on one of my other forums. its all legal as far as california is concerned... on riu? And the rest of the build looks awesome. So many pictures.

They were fucktarded. Coming from the same person that would say "your wasting a Ferrari if your not driving it over 160." I have a pair of xcons that will be on a 1500watt amp, that's 750watts before imp rise to each driver that is rated for 1750.

What thickness is the top panel going to be? 1" as well? , 3/4"? If you do 1" panel and 3/4" or 1" for the flush mount, I'd say the mounting panel is rigid enough, but you must add internal bracing, whether it be 45s in the corners, steel bars, wooden dowels, etc.

Just because someone bought the same driver as you doesn't mean their putting it in the exact same box and car as you. What your asking isn't dependent on the specific driver as far as sub placement and port placement. Most people in SUV vehicles do subs up and port back. I'm not going to say it's the best or loudest way, but in most suv scenarios it works well. Tuning depends on what you listen to? classic rock? rap? dubstep/electronica? country? It's country isn't? I suggest you start your own topic to get some more help, instead of saying "I don't want thread-jack, but I'm going to any ways"

Tight dude, no ones going to help you cause your a prick.

Only monoblock amp(s) I have owned are saz1500ds, never had any problems. But since I haven't owned anything else, I honestly can't compare it to anything, or in this case a DD amp.