ssh

This is one of those epic rare logs, everything done right, no cutting corners, father & son work, every detail perfect. Definitely cool to watch from the beginning to finish, and additions here and there

I'd just use 0/1 gauge for power and grounds. 12gauge for speaker wire.

Yep, just added one run of 0/1 welding wire from output stud on stock alt to positive terminal on battery, no additional ground wires. It should be enough to get me by for a few months until DC can make an alt for my car

Welding is continuous power, way more than any car audio application.... Not to mention all the welding wire I've ordered from welding supply.com is all copper, not CCA.

idk wich wud b loudr, port up or port back, it depends on da car, evry1 is diff. a 280 dc alt along wit a few gud batts shud b fine.

Okay I'm bad at build logs... I installed some hertz coaxial 5 1/4" speakers in the doors yesterday, sound pretty good, obviously not going to keep up with the sub stage but that's okay at this point Also installed stinger volt gauge in my dash, voltage at idle with radio, ac, etc all off, was ~12.2volts. Driving at 2k rpm was about 13.5v Added some wire from the output stud on stock alt to front battery... yes it's calibrated. Now well just see how it does with the saz1500d

If you can't find a decent local box builder, there's always Argent Audio here on the forum

Haven't looked at your build in a while, nice to come back and see all the progress I'm curious to see how the front dash area comes out

Between the 250amp h/o alt, whatever starting battery, and a large xspower or kinetik, or even some deka 9a31s you should be good. Not sure about using an optima battery, I've read they don't like being charged at 14.9v+, that they don't last very long. To give you an idea, I ran a saz1500d at 1ohm with a 230amp alt and no extra batteries, full tilt voltage wouldn't drop below ~13.8

Skar 12 has a much lower Fs, lower motor force, triple stack vs double stack, different inductance, looser suspension, and isn't as loud. So no, they aren't "almost identical". Then I've heard wrong, good thing you posted.

My son is currently running 2 Pioneer 12s in a 4'cu ft box tuned at 35hz.Goals.....he wants everyone to go "wow".I say....hair trick....but we need more cone area for that.Will there be a big difference from the Pionner subs to either of the sa12s or Skar 12s? Not to be a dick, but the last time I checked pioneer made more then one model. Is that ap1800 amp 1ohm stable? Willing to upgrade electrical? Extra battery at the least Pioneer subs came from Walmart....TS-W303R.....no offense taken.Yes amp is 1 ohm stable.I want to make sure that I am able to run the SA12s or Skars @ 1 ohm to use all available power. I figured we were gonna have to do a extra battery.Will 4 gauge power and ground be enough? Either the sa12 or skars will be a big upgrade from those pioneers. The sa12s should be fine on that amp at 1ohm. Depending on the extra battery and how long it'll be playing at full tilt, you should be fine without a h/o alt. 4gauge isn't going to cut it unfortunately, order some 0/1 welding wire from weldingsupply.com or any 0/1 gauge car audio wire if you want to spend more

just take it easy on the bass knob for a bit DC Power can't make an alt for my vehicle for about 3 months

Sounds like you need some bls or btls.

Man you got a lot of work to do But it'll be awesome in the end.

Looking good, I love the look of welded metal encasing batteries, and amp racks etc. Looks industrial grade

I just trim the ends a little and twist the wire to a point per say, never have any issues. Not sure about soldering the ends, solder isn't that conductive compared to copper or cca wire.

The banana plugs can go on the side where the wire goes, which doesn't help in your case. As far as the bottom, not sure. I'd be worried they'd rattle looose

hmm, maybe you shoulda wired it before mounting

is your headunit powering any speakers? or is everything powered off amps? Perhaps your ground on the hu isn't sufficient enough when you turn the volume up?

So your head unit is turning off at vol 26? If so then your amps aren't the problem.

My son is currently running 2 Pioneer 12s in a 4'cu ft box tuned at 35hz.Goals.....he wants everyone to go "wow".I say....hair trick....but we need more cone area for that.Will there be a big difference from the Pionner subs to either of the sa12s or Skar 12s? Not to be a dick, but the last time I checked pioneer made more then one model. Is that ap1800 amp 1ohm stable? Willing to upgrade electrical? Extra battery at the least

Looks awesome, big beefy and loud

Start looking for someone that needs your box

Most shops have a minimum job price. Meaning if you want something done it's $100. But they'll do multiple things for the same price. If your talking about small parts. Wheels I checked locally and they wanted $200 for a set of four wheels. If you have room. You could powder coat yourself for a few hundred dollars. You need an old oven, a sand blaster, powder coat gun and powder. You can pick up a sand blaster and powder coat gun and powder for about 175 at harbour freight. Then get a beat up old oven and find a 220v outlet to plug it into. Sounds like a lot of work verse just paying them to do it But then again if your planning on powder coating a lot of stuff then that's a different story.

Well my dad got his done at a local shop and the lady who runs it remembered him from High School, so I don't know if she gave him a discount or not. His wheels were like $350 (i think his wheels are 16 or 17 i don't remember). We went back and got mine done, they charged $275