ssh

All your remote wires are coming straight from the headunit right? You don't have any crossovers or anything. So the remote wire from the rca for your mids and highs is working fine. so check the voltage on the remote wire for each saz3500d, put positive lead on remote wire and negative lead on ground, turn on headunit, should see 12v. If not, then your remote wire might be loose or something behind the headunit.

so now the master 3500d won't turn on, where as before it was just the slave 3500d that wouldn't turn on? Your not using a relay for your remote turn on right? As Mac n Cheese said, put a dmm on your remote wire and turn your headunit on, see if the remote wire(s) get 12v.

it's funny cause I saw that episode a while back and just laughed, and earlier tonight my dad said pretty much the exact same thing

vehicle: 1997 jeep wrangler 4.0L straight six So alt has been installed and working wonderfully, now I'm adding the resistor to the stock wiring to get rid of the check engine light. Here's the stock wiring "In your picture, "A" is the original B+, C is ground, and B1 & B2 is the field connections for the stock alternator" Now I've put the resistor between the field connections as shown below: and my check engine light still comes on, Is this because the stock +12v/B+ and ground aren't connected? Did I install the resistor incorrectly? I also checked the resistor with a dmm and it's not faulty. Any ideas? Thank you - Stefan

x2, Cone area is going to be your friend, and having a good enclosure. From your dimensions it looks like you got around ~40cubes (gross) to play with. Another thing to remember if you go with a lot of drivers and are intending on giving them full rms, then your gonna need a lot of space for batteries and amp(s), so you may in fact have a lot less space then 40cubes for the enclosure. Got any pictures of the interior?

Looks pretty awesome, giant powerhouse. What's it gonna power?

Of course Im not sure lol....Im gunna get out there today and give us dimensions to play with........... Well if were still throwing numbers around, why not put 55 18s in?

oh yea i understand that , an actual sub costs more so its only logical to go with what makes more money, im ok with waiting for a week for the recone kit, but i was wondering how long does it usualy take for paypal to process?..i dont have too much knowledge about paypal its my brother in laws account , so is it a person processing it or a computer?..but my main question like i said was how long does it usualy take to process?..thanks for the help This is a question for paypal, has nothing to do with Fi. Typically if the payment is sent via an echeck (no credit/debit card on paypal account, just bank account) then it takes 4-5 business days to process, if the paypal account has a credit/debit card on the account then the processing is usually instant. Nick types faster then me...

Couldn't you just add an equalizer before the amp and boost the signal range your ssf is set to (10hz). And boost it corresponding to the ssf's slope? Then it'd pretty much even out?, after all the filter is attenuating not a cut off.

Movie Time!

oh that's nice, real nice Looking Stout.

Thanks for the schooling, as usual. x2, much appreciated

I do have a jeep TJ for doing that kind of stuff, but 5-10mph averages get old fast, nothing like the thrill of a dirt bike

2007 rm250

While I can't agree with your subjective analysis of "big difference", let's just look at the numbers. You went from 500w to 750w and gained 1db. You should have gained 10*log(750/500) = 1.76db, so you had .76db of power compression. With double the power, you only gained 1.5db, you should have gained 10*log(1500/750) = 3db. So you had 1.5db of power compression. How much power compression do you think is going to be occurring with 9000 watts on a pair of subwoofers? Oh, and I don't care about your personal subjective analysis of the "audible differences". If you want to prove anything at all with regards to your ability to discern audible differences, go have a properly conducted, scientifically valid test conducted in a controlled environment by someone with the proper training in administering such a test. Does his brother playing him music with random volumes on a cassette player underwater count?

View in 720p ftw

Sounds like it's time for a blow through

No worries. I also own a porn forum \ And the wife flips about 120 gb of porn?? How does this make sense? J I guess because it wasn't on my CPU... and she doesn't know about the porn section of the forum Glad to see you healthy again and able

I attest to Andrew from Argent Audio making awesome boxes.

It's a common sickness.... try waiting for a month if you ordered an N2... they still haven't shipped, and when they do it will take a week for them to get to your house. Now that's where the grey hair comes in x2, ordered sa12s a while back, out of stock, would be back in 2weeks, waited, then changed to another 3 weeks, waited, then switched order to icons and got them a week later

I will have over 8 cubes after everything is said in done if I only do 1. I wanna save as much as my back seat as possible lol. well if you want to save as much room as possible, then do a single 18". Smaller box = more storage room. no brainer... If you want more output and have the appropriate net volume then 2 18s would be the way to go.

what are your dimensions for an enclosure? You don't sound very sure how much volume you really have. After driver, port, bracing displacement your net volume will be significantly less then your guess / gross. (as shizz stated in chat )

In my mind the amp doesn't just realize it's and .5 and blow..... I believe people keep their electrical under par and with the lower resistance the amp consumes more power.... the lower the voltage the "slower" the power is moving and therefore more power (amperage) is needed. This stresses the internals of the amp and puts them under high stress. My goal is to stay around 14.x volts to keep the amp healthy. I obviously can't do this with additional batts (since the 12v batts float around 12.5) so I will likely need additional alternator power. I don't know if I listed this before, but I will likely be acquiring an additional 3000D and run both at 1ohm, which seems less risky to me. No matter what route I go, the amps will be running under the most optimal conditions I can provide.... yes that even means lowering the gains from their optimal position (wattage wise) if need be. I hear ya. At least your giving it enough power to cover the amperage draw and is just for the mean time

Making it sound like he's got drugs for sale.

Clean truck, clean install. I dig it!