ssh

Nothings going to get damaged, running the amp at 4ohms will produce less power then running it at 1ohm, that's all. Now your amp settings could cause damage to the driver if there not set correctly. ie: gain, ssf, bassboost.

Are you planning on running extra batteries? If so, any idea on which models and how many?

Wire it like this if you want 1ohm at the amp The extra set of positive and negative terminals on the amp are for convenience, there internally connected so it doesn't matter which set you use.

And if you thought heaven was nonexistent...

Too much time on your hands...

This thread should be renamed to "food."

this might be also a dumb question. but is the high qts option able to be used in a ported box? or is this a no no? like the guy previous said there reall isn't any info on this. thx It's a no-no. If you want to use a ported enclosure, use the normal driver. Don't put the High Qts driver in a ported enclosure. Speak of the devil.

this might be also a dumb question. but is the high qts option able to be used in a ported box? or is this a no no? like the guy previous said there reall isn't any info on this. thx What Is High Qts

Well the easiest way is to replace your stock alt with the dc alt, but you could possibly get a dual alt bracket made and run your stock alt for stock electrical and run the dc alt for your stereo. If you did the later approach, you would have more amperage to keep up with your current draw from your amps, and you could run a higher voltage which would be beneficial for an amp such as a saz4500 I guess the only issue is, do you have space under the hood for a second alt? Some people remove their A/C to make up the space, I know if it was me I'd never do that... I'm not sure off the top of my head how much current draw the 4500d has at full tilt, I'm assuming your wiring it down to 1ohm? Depending on the current draw and battery bank you have, it may or may not be worth it to do a dual alt setup. Hope that helps, even the slightest bit!

simple question, simple answer: get another alt. You'll have more power when your vehicle is running.

He's gotta get his inspiration from somewhere

The sa12 requires a relatively small ported enclosure, so your in luck Down firing vs ever other combination design and placement is different for every vehicle, only trial and error will tell you what's best in the end. Personally If downfiring works best for your space and storage area then just go that route, just make sure you give the driver enough space to unload and not hit the floor, I would at least 3" but preferably more like 4" or 5", hopefully someone else can chime in about the space. My new build is actually going to be four sa12s down firing in a jeep wrangler, down firing works best for my goals, getting loud and being able to store stuff on top of the box. Now flipping the box over and up firing may yield a lot more output, but I'll sacrifice that unknown for the sake of storage.

Check out sundown and crescendo amps.

Go for it man, if you got all the tools it's pretty easy. If not, have Argent Audio build you a box

As do you! 28hz will sound good on the lows but lose some output on the higher range.

Fail on the painting But digging your whole build

you aren't going to notice any difference between 27 and 28... Pick one, the end.

ssf stands for subsonic filter, it attenuates frequencies below a set frequency. It keeps the driver from playing below the enclosures tuned frequency and bottoming out. The RF 2500.1bd has a SET ssf at 28hz. If you end up using that specific amp, I would tune the enclosure to 30hz.

Just another reason prefab boxes don't work well 99% of the time... But as long as your happy then it doesn't really matter

The firewall in my Explorer makes me wanna Me and my dad had all kinds of hell fitting two 8 guage wires in there without drilling a hole. This time I just wanna look for a good spot to hole saw big enough for 0ga and call it a day. Some people run their wire under their vehicle, just an idea. You can use industrial zip ties and pvc couplers.

Yeah that's really not good... For downfiring I'd try to have at least 3" between the cone and floor, and if possible more.

Hopefully they have some adapter, or it's an easy fix. I'll definitely being watching this topic to see how it turns out. Mines been a bit complicating, but I think I have it figured out now, just gotta wait on a resistor...

So whats the distance between the cone and floor? an inch?

pictures