ssh

do you have any subs in yours? I'm very curious to see how much my doors and roof flex. The doors on the jeep are pretty slim and the roof is plastic or some polycarbonate Nope, rocking the factory system with the rollbar attached box overhead for the rear speakers. The current system has gotta go, but it's pretty far down the list of systems to work on (truck & GN). Plus it's gotta get a winch and bumper first ($$$$'s) since I don't like using a com-a-long and high-lift jack to get myself out of mud holes. I hear ya, winches are life savers, we've used them so many times (always end up helping people that don't have one too )

I got a new amp coming and my friend might want to buy my old amp in a week, but if he doesn't buy it than I can send you the cover if you pay shipping

do you have any subs in yours? I'm very curious to see how much my doors and roof flex. The doors on the jeep are pretty slim and the roof is plastic or some polycarbonate

The Specialists is what you might be thinking, I called them about it and they never got back to me... Not really a big deal since i'm not competing Thanks though

have you read your manual?

and were the one with the problem? People are only trying to help and don't know what all you've done (especially if everything is posted in 8 different forums... )

Pictures+Dimensions=help Is there any space under the rear seats?

I'm so excited, I just keep telling myself its worth the wait to have topnotch products instead of mainstream in a prefab box I can't wait!!! Once the amp comes in and box fully carpeted i'll post some more pictures

my tailgate was bent a little and had a gap that led water in, but I already replaced the tailgate and weather stripping so the new box will never get wet

thanks, thats what im hoping. Ready for the kicker? The only systems I have heard are: a pioneer 12" in prefab ported box with who knows what amp my friends RF punch 12" subs in prefab ported box WITH 300watt rms lol and my 10" sealed alpine type-r. The rf punches on 300watts made me smile everytime I was in the car. So basically a 400dollar setup made me happy and im going with sa12s,saz1500d, and a custom box. So I should be blown away So yeah i'm excited to hear a REAL system

So far I have: headunit: alpine cde-102 front: alpine 4x6 rear: polk 5 1/4 amp: RF punch 3001, Bought a SAZ-1500 from Bigrank a couple days ago sub: alpine type-r 10", ordered two SA-12's a couple weeks ago, hate the wait Already done Big3 Next on agenda: need to replace 4gauge amp wiring with 0gauge get a stinger voltmeter h/o alt replace stock battery Here's some pictures for ya More to come once I get the SA12s and saz amp in

Like this? Came off my RF punch 3001 you know if there the same?

why don't you just get an xcon 15"

13,003 members SSA has been by far the best forum for me, I read topic after topic in multiple forums and found so much contradiction, flame wars, and misinformation. Then I found SSA and was like holy s***. Not only is ssa an awesome company that makes awesome products, but they offer this forum for their own competition. SSA=Best Community

Posted today, F/S Used SAX 50.4 - SSA Car Audio Forum

Yeah thanks for all the help you guys.

check out what oldskool posted

have you read the manuals? You'll end up with an answer if you post something specific you want to know, instead of asking what everything is. I'll edit my post and give a brief a explanation on some of the basic "knobs" on the amps (be back in an hour)

Thanks, I understand it now So If the h/o alt is large enough then I won't have voltage drop (or much less) compared to stock. Sounds perfect. DC power doesn't make one for a wrangler, but I read in some jeep forums and everyone likes the mean green one. thanks for the help

Thanks Gonzala, I'll look into the stock alt on the newer cherokees and see what other alts are out there.

thanks, When they finished the tinting I wished they had done the front side windows a little darker, but after driving and seeing it outside in the daylight, its perfect

I meant more of a luck of the draw due to the tolerance of the voltage in the batteries. And sometimes when sitting for a while on a cool day I see mine sitting at 14.7, that's all I meant. Some people on here use the XS Power regulator, hopefully one of them chimes in about that, I myself am interested in it since you can set your voltage to 15.2 or something like that. Okay, well I'm thinking about getting an h/o alt soon If I can afford to get two batteries I will, but for now i'll probably have to make due with one. This is what im looking at: Mean Green MG1334 - Mean Green Alternator for 91-98 Jeep® Wrangler YJ; Cherokee XJ & TJ with 4 or 6 Cylinder - Quadratec

When you said there is a chance the battery could charge greater than 14.6v, were you referring to 12v batteries? If so I could use a h/o alt and just a 12v battery, right? Thanks NCSU ECE

Okay, well this is going to be in my daily driver around town, so 99% of the time when im listening to music it won't be at idle but actually driving in higher rpms So I could go with a h/o alt and get a 14v battery and charge it at 15v-16v and then when im driving around town the alt will make sufficient power and the battery will have more power than a regular 12v. Correct? I'm planning on getting the sae-1200d, I see its rated up to 15v, so would the h/o alt make too much? or would I have to get a regulator? I would rather have an h/o alt and a good battery than multiple batteries.

I have a 1997 jeep wrangler, the stock alt makes about 90amps and idles at 14v without amps connected. If I put a h/o alt 200amp, at idle what would my voltage be without amps connected? I'm assuming its going to vary from one vehicle to another, but stock alt 90amps = 14v idle, so 200amps = 14.5v? 15v? Is there any way for me to estimate the voltage at idle?