Robert

they can use the pass thru rca off the 1000.1 to throw signal to 4ch then just two Y adapters to use both front and rear channels. for time being until they get the Y adapters they can hook a second set of rca from pass thru on 1000.1 to front inputs of 4ch. No reason to at least have the front stage on and the mono bumping until they do get the Y adapters to light up the rear channels. list of items 2 Y adapters with one male two female ends 1 3ft. run of rca cable or whatever length it takes from amp to amp. the Y adapters will go off this rca cable to 4ch white(left) to front inputs and red(right) to rear inputs. I might be totally wrong if I am somebody please correct me.

you might have to get these to split the signal http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=rca+y+adaptors&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=17406967372621033291&sa=X&ei=C8kDTrf0HMn50gGuw_2FCw&ved=0CHcQ8gIwAw BUT first try to run the rca from radio to RF1000 THEN a rca cable from the pass thru outputs of the 1000D to the 4ch you will most likely want to get a very short run of rca cable or just ball up the one you are using between amps until later on. radioshack has the y adapters. if you can't get to them at the moment just hook the rcas coming from pass thru on 1000D to the front channels on 4ch so you can have the front door speakers playing until everything else gets straightened out. two channels will work because thats what is connected THEN you will want the Y splitters off the rca going to 4ch to use the other two channels

I have ran main power from front battery to distro power block, then power runs off block to amps, ground amps to the same grounding spot. daisy chain remote wire from one amp remote to the next amp remote.

Glad to see you Eric Nothing wrong with knowledgeable advice. I did call Matt before you actively started helping forum wise. He told me everything was fine but honestly I adjusted the POT down to 14.9v cold start at night and when I received the bracket I squeezed in the belt I called you for and things have been great since. Welcome to SSA Eric

Dollars are stacking up for this beast... wonder what else is up the Crescendo sleeve? Jon sorry bout tracking you down across half the interwebz I got your message thanks!

yep same here and I'm only at 2 ohm's

I had a pioneer HU, pioneer EQ (which was bad ass), some kicker SVC in a bandpass box off a pyramid 2ch bridged 700watt amp( gold with see thru yop and L.E.D that lit up at every bass hit) powered 8 gauge wire and ground. I miss that EQ going into a dark room to cry now....

Just saw this post. If you still need some decals, PM me your address and I will get you a couple pronto. Did you ever get paypal email [email protected] Jun 17, 2011 Payment To Jon Kent Completed ... -$8.00 USD

Awesome build skills!

Not exactly. Your saying at .5 ohms it should put out 10k? And .25 should put out 20k? maybe... lol I was going off that chart seeing how watts would change as ohm load changed. But I don't know.

I am running power from rear battery to amp. My question is will I be ok with 24in from battery to the fuse holder (300A fuse)then from there 56in to amp? Or do I run 12in from rear battery to fuse holder then a run to amp?

maybe around 2500rms at 2ohms since every time ohm gets dropped power doubles?

Redneck is correct They are not warrantied under 1ohm. alot of people ask and I'm sure there are people who's electrical can sustain .5ohm but then you have people breaking amps expecting to get help. Crescendo has floated away from this .5ohm topic to avoid headaches down the road IMO. Can they do it? yes. would I do it? no.

Adding to this thread, Still have a few things to iron out but once done I will be running my BC3500D at 2 ohm to a orion HCCA 15 until the end of year then I'll look into adding a second sub Enjoy guys... Some people got stickers but I think everyone got shirts. Amp also comes with bass knob. I don't remember if this was already put up here sorry if it was

you can run it like that but not warrantied from what I have read.

With HO alt the good thing is that with a load it wouldn't drop below 14v for longer than a second But just normal driving with no radio on or even slight volume I would see my voltage meter have those sporadic drops in voltage and car kind of shuddering for a second. BUT with regular OE alt there is no pot to make adjustments but car doesn't ever idle rough at all. I have just received a new amp and sub that I will not run off stock alt but its just weird to me how the voltage is regulated. I guess I need to learn more about it. As far as what I "see" is something in my car either bumps heads with pot in harness or belt slips ever so slightly here and there.

I recently had to take my mechman alt off because of a bracket issue. Lucky for me I kept my OE alt in case anything would happen. Some things I can throw out here is that before alts are put in I charge batteries, then with O scope at the battery I set the pot on mechman harness cold start 15.1v then after car warms up it will sit at 14.8 to 14.6v. There would be irregular voltage drops from there to 13.8 and then bounce right back up. With the OE alt in it cold starts at 14.4 car warms up and sits at 14.1v I don't know my car but I think that the computer is what adjusts the voltage and with the mechman pot there seems to be a bumping of heads. So to add to this thread your idea might be right but the computer might be regulating the voltage still.

See told I told you They will iron out the issues sucks things happen but they will help especially here.Thanks DC see you guys around

Mandatory testing would be a good thing even if it would take a bit longer

I know that but isn't there help on this since I just need help deciphering the port pieces and placements?

ok I more or less made a rough drawing of a bow shape close to measurements using google sketchup and now I am at the poitnt where Im reading the port measurements, Do I just go to a side of the face side of box and pick a side and make a cut out of 4.5inW x 16inH? it seems to me there are four individual pieces that make the port which I doubt but I'm lost none the less. Sorry I suck just trying to learn. before I just pay someone for the cutsheet of this or something else.

I should be seeing a Orion HCCA 15 pretty soon and I'm going to want to build a box for it. I found the instruction manual and my dumbass can't see the inner port wall (L shape). I'm cutting pieces of paper pretending its the box but I'm still lost. I'm sure I'll be laughed at but still. http://www.directedd...08-11MLweb2.pdf I'm looking at page 30 in link. Thanks for your patience.

Great set of youtube examples

It's not your car that's the problem on this one.. What did they send you to bypass the PCM, or are you running the alternator off the PCM? I can help you fix it, just need more specifics.. Rob Rob sorry I missed this we can discuss this through PM personally I don't care what is said but I don't want to thread jack. But to answer you I really don't know the inner working of the car. I assume CPU controls alt but mine came with a pot wire harness between alt and factory harness I set it to 15.1 cold and once car warms up it drops to 14.6 - 14.4 depending how hot it is outside. I will say that my car is in need of other sensor upgrades and when light used to kick on with OE alt autozone code readout was because O2 sensor would trip it on or throttle position sensor was bad. I replaced the TPS recently and just today was working on car and noticed the air charge sensor was not installed into air box. but that back in today left battery unplugged to reset CPU and no light has come on. I'm rebuilding audio from 1500rms to around to around 4000rms so their are alot of things that can be wrong car wise aside from anything that could possibly be wrong Alternator wise. My car isn't a honda either but thanks for anything you have to teach me.

wangin hard!