lightingman117

Ohhhh, how the trapdoors of youth open wide when bass is flyin!

I know now what I'm asking for as an early Christmas present to go along with my 2 DCON's

Oh my gosh that engine looks and sounds so good/pretty. If an engine can sound that good I only hope the sound system can keep up

I got the amp rack done. And the whole family is pitching in! My mom painted. It looks pretty. I'm amazed this is going as well as it is, being my first build and all. Sorry for the crappy pics. Best camera I have is my Droid...

That is beautiful. Makes me wanna put led's everywhere!

Thank you. Came out better than I had even hoped. I am very happy. Very much as a consequence of my friend's grandpa having a table saw. It's funny we have everything but a table saw and welder. Sadly it got too cold to glue anything, so I have to wait until later today.

I told my dad, he said, "thanks" (or something along those lines). Now for the update. Drawing for amp rack that's going on the rear seats. I feel this is a smart area to put the amps any ideas as to why not i'm open to. Though I have already commenced building... Rear tie-bar. Very nice for taking corners fast While back I got Polk 6x9 momo's cheap 40bux for 2. (great deal), but they don't fit so I jerry-rigged it to the best of my ability. I think it went well. Left to do: Finish amp rack. Finish sub box. Run front ch wires. Run rear ch wires. Wire amps up. Do signal/phase testing. Set xovers. Make more money to buy dampening... Set-up Christmas lights Yeah, lots to do.

Uploading pics now! Haha, me too! Funny how that is?

HECK TO THE YEAH!!

I'd like to think I am slightly read-up on everything there is sound wise. I have literally done hundreds if not thousands of hours of research over the years trying to get a grasp on everything there is to know about sound lights robots and the like (about me page). I really see no need to fuse the link as the original wire isn't fused for the reason I stated earlier. Nontheless I've done it this way and I like it. Plenty of others have and it works. If y'all have anything to add to the actual build log and such i'd appreciate it othewise this issue is mute. Thanks! Not trying to be mean just want a semi clean build log

Haha, no problem (it's still technically on build in my opinion, now if we start talking about your poodle and why your grandma hates loud cars, thats' off topic. ). I didn't fuse it because i've read that if you fuse it and the fuse blows the alternator will charge like there's no tomorrow because of no load detected. It will then catch on fire and systematically destroy everything under the hood, well maybe not that last part. But that is the reason why I decided not to fuse the link. The original run isn't fused so there's really no difference other than the ability to weld for longer. Oh! And I almost forgot sefugi has been a tremendousness help, and I would like to thank him personally for everything he has helped with and for the great build logs which I'm going to use ideas from.

So, last Saturday me and my dad got to work on my Cavalier. And it's time for me to give back to the community some. And away we go! :slayer: First part Big 3! 2004 Silver Chevrolet Cavalier^ Engine bay with battery and intake/filter removed^ Battery/filter bay.^ Crappy wiring which I hope to make really nice by mounting amps to back of rear seat.^ Head-amp removed as per last album's releasing of magic smoke. You can find that here.^ Current amp rack. Crappy job really needs some tlc.^ Current amp rack from behind. Crappy job really needs some tlc.^ Wiring from cab to computer/engine bay + 1/0 awg for amplifiers in trunk.^ If you can tell that's the alternator where I need to run 1/0 awg from to the battery for better power flow. Engine mount which I will be changing when I can. Engine mount which I did change much nicer than the crappy gm thing. 250A ANL style fuse block. Mounted to air intake filter assembly. Grounding point for engine ground. Runs to chassis ground. and from there to bat negative (-). Chassis ground. Runs to bat negative (-). Negative grounding block. Original wiring left in place just added 1/0 everywhere. Wiring done. So perty! =D Wiring done. So perty! =D Random shots of it being nice and all. 1/0 awg runs into cabin and goes into 2/0 (or something like that, no idea why, ordered it and it said 4awg. As long as it's bigger who cares?) Engine bay put back together. Bought 2 12" DCON's Dual 4ohm so those are on the way. Already have Polk momo 6x9's in the rear (love 'em, hard custom install though). Crappy pioneer 4x6's in the front (only thing that fits). I do plan on replacing these when I learn enough about molding and such. Today me and my dad will be working on the amp rack behind the rear seats. And Yesterday I started work on the sub enclosure. So hopefully I'll get some more pics up tonight. Took me awhile to get this whole image-shack thing working To all the Cavvy lovers out there this is for you guys.

Okay, thats what I thought at first, but got confused when I read on this site DIY audio that it causes disturbances in the frequency response. Now that I re-read again I think it may be talking about speakers and not necessarily subs. Thanks for all your help. Hey, I was wondering, got an eta on my subs? I'm just so excited wanna do this:

Also, if you haven't done the big 3 yet you should definitely do that. It can solve many problems and may even solve your dimming problem without being forced to buy a new alternator.

So, I bought 2 12" DCONs and I'm currently building the box according to SSA's . I was wondering how I should go about building the front. Some websites suggest countersinking the subs so they are flush. I'm wondering what the correct design is for the actual SSA tech drawing. I'm sorry if this has been answered here before, I've searched and searched, but to no avail. I do plan on doing a build so that other people wont have much trouble. Thanks,

It depends on how the manufacture setup the amplifier, If it has 6 outs then thats very nice because you can set the crossovers differently for each output.

4 gauge power and ground wire for your 50.4 1/0 gauge power and ground wire for your 2500.1 ring terminals for your wiring that will be hooked up to batteries 20-30 ft. of 18 gauge wire for your remote turn on wire 1 set of 2 channel rca's and 1 set of 4 channel rcas 5 fuse holders and appropriate fuses(4-300 anl fuses and a 250 anl fuse) 1/0 power and ground wire to complete your big three wiring secondary battery to provide power your going to need I may be forgetting somethings but this should get you started. Ok. Thanks for the detailed list man. Now, a few questions. The rcas... when u say 4 channel rca, I didn't kno there Is 4 rca inputs on the 50.4, is that what there is? And why do I need a 2 channel rca for my mono amp? Im guessing the fuses are for amp to batt.(x2) Batt to batt.(x2) andbig 3. Right? And u think I will definatly need a 2nd batt? I have 2 12" Kicker L7's. They will be seeing 600rms each from the 2500.1. Sorry for my noob-ness. But evryone starts here. Haha Thank again. - Jonathan Number, length and # of channels for RCA's is dependent on your head-amp. Say you have only a line out on your head-amp. You would only need 1-2ch RCA to run to the back which would run into your 50.4 which does have 4 inputs but you can split the RCA's and run both front and rears from just the head/amp (the 50.4 has a front left front right rear left and rear right input). Then from the 50.4 you would run 1-2ch RCA to the 2500.1. Yes the 2500 is mono but it still had a left and right channel input where it will sum the inputs and take the combined signal and send it to the subs. You are correct on the fuses. Depending on the car requires batteries. Some of the guys running around here don't need a battery and are running 3000D's in the back with no dimming (crazy i know). And no problem about the "noob-ness" we all do start somewhere Oh and I would encourage doing some research on your amps, just so you know what you're doing with the setup and all.

Sure, why not, just make a note of it in your order! Could I get a partial credit for this sale ???? Now, now. I had my eye on the DCON's long before I met you. I just happened to come across your build log and you just so happened to help me integrate myself into SSA. Someone just bought a Level 1 subsciption! I did and I'm super happy about everything that's going to be on its way!

Sure, why not, just make a note of it in your order! Could I get a partial credit for this sale ???? Now, now. I had my eye on the DCON's long before I met you. I just happened to come across your build log and you just so happened to help me integrate myself into SSA.

Sure, why not, just make a note of it in your order! Wow, you are a great man. Thank you sir. You have a great site and I will proudly wear and show off the subs/shirt! How should I note it in my order? Just a reminder? Quote this? Thanks.

So, if I bought a shirt, SSA supporter # 1, and 2 DCON's, does that mean I get free shipping?

First, I would suggest reading Newbie Rules and Newbie Sign in Before you get flamed ("flamed" might not be the right word) for general not obeying rules you agreed to upon signing up. Second, which would be addressed if you had read the rules. What are you trying to accomplish? Less dimming? Have you done the big 3? What kind of amperage draw do you have? Whats the setup? Things like this are much needed info so you get the best possible answer. Not trying to be mean just trying to save M5 from having to moderate people's threads. As per your question. It really depends on how much you're willing to spend. Alternator will keep voltage up while the car is running. 2 Batteries will allow you to run longer without car running. And alt+bat will allow you to run longer with extremely high amperage pull before you have to shut it down and let the alternator recharge the batteries.

Well volume is controlled by the signal voltage. By splitting the signal you are essentially running two devices in parallel. Halving the resistance. When you do this to remain at the same voltage by V=I*R the current has to double. All you are really doing is forcing the source to increase current flow to keep the same voltage. So, you don't change the voltage (volume) only current draw from source. This can increase distortion, but has no effect on volume. You can demonstration this yourself by splitting the signal from your source and unplugging one side of the split notice how the volume doesn't change.

I've always viewed adding to be better than replacing. If you add and later on you decide to sell you can take all the wiring out without anything bad happening. 1/0 is expensive and always nice to have around. If you had replaced everything it'd be a lot harder to get everything back. That and adding = next to zero resistance because you have a 1/0 + 8-4awg wire.

I always thought it was Keep It Simple Stupid, More to come... Well, if you want to encourage others by bringing them down "stupid" might work. Otherwise, if you want to build others up "saint" is more productive. A gentle answer turns away wrath, but a harsh word stirs up anger. -Proverbs 15:1 No, i'm not gonna go crazy religious on you. But, there is some great wisdom in the Bible that we all could live our lives by and be better off.