An-i-no

Ok so some of you may have read my other thread about the RF amp. Well I put my AQ 4X90 back in and bridged it on my fronts and got a naaaasty engine whine. I checked the ground, it was tight. I tried both my sub rca's and another pair of rca's they both make the noise. Sub amp makes no noise. When I disconnect the rca's the noise stops. I moved the ground so that my sub amp and the AQ's grounds were seperate, still got the noise. The noise stays loud regardless of head unit volume. I put the RF amp back in and it makes the same noise. I'm very clueless and frustrated. I followed the noise guide but none of it helped.

In my town we have a street that everybody rides up and down showing off their cars. If I were to run active the only time I would use my rears is when I'm blasting them and showing off. Other than that I know what you mean. Anyway...I'm feeling rebuildy guys. Looks like I have some number crunching to do.

Was planning on attempting an active setup later with the RF amp on my mids and AQ amp running tweets/rears. Plus I got the RF for 75 bucks

Nothing. I simply switched out the amps. I thought maybe one side was out of phase somewhere so I double quadruple checked the wiring, nothing. Wired each side "out of phase" independently and it sounded different but not better. The eq settings I did like I always do. Start out with it flat (Cept for the 50hz band, sub gain is set to that). It usually sounds bad that way so I remove the trouble spots. Usually the 125 and 800 are around -5 or 6, and the 2k at -3. With the new amp I HAD to turn those bands down that far, otherwise it was shrill and garbled, which led me to believe that the gain was too high but it sounds equally as bad with low gain, just quieter.

The p 500-2? Nope. I bought it out of some guy's trunk. He had it on his subs though. That's a really bummer to hear.

I'm starting to think that but I wanna find out for sure before I go switch them out. The midbass is incredibly punchy now. It's just that the midrange has no definition, almost like I'm playing two different songs at the same time. It's all...on top of itself. The Tweeters were kind of edgy before and that shit is unbearable now.

Browser fail.

Hmmm...according to my Walmart cig lighter volt meter my voltage is better than before, so I don't think that's it. When I re eq'd it, I ended up just having everything at -9 except for the ~50hz band. The 125, 800, 2k, and 5k all are at rock bottom. The speakers are pre-08 Hertz H

Had an AQ 4x90, switched to a RF P500-2

I changed amps on my Front stage recently and it sounds like absolute garbage now. I went from ~100wrms to over 200 on tap (not sure if I'm using all of it) and it's sooooo muddy now. I thought the amp was distorting so I turned the gain down til it sounded decent but it's way quieter than.before. I had to turn my high pass up to about 100hz (from 80, but I partially expected this) and aim the tweeters at the floor to get it to sound acceptable. To top it off...it isn't even louder. I'm under the assumption that my drivers can't handle the power but other than that I'm stumped.

Oh hell.

Home Theater.

Lol @ this thread.

I will keep that in mind.

The brace will be enough won't it?

You a sneakerhead?

Got a nice new box, I wanna keep it. It's 1.75 per with a huge port (will edit in actual port specs later)tuned to 28hz. All of the higher power handling subs I see need more space so I'm looking for a subs that can do well in this box. I'm upgrading from SA-12's and the budget can be pretty high since this won't happen soon. Just looking so I can save up, or start saving.

I'm sorry, but i can't hear a 3db difference well at levels above 135db. And i am talking about music, no tones.. Do you mean that if you heard 137 and then 140 back to back it would sound the same? Or do you mean that if you heard 135 to start with and I rolled the volume up you wouldn't notice? Because it's a very big difference.

I disagree about the 8. It may overpower stock speakers playing at a reasonable, non-distorted level but not if they're blasting. I've heard stocks keep up with a an HDC ported until almost max volume. It sounded bad but you could hear it over the bass. And to the op, cone area is your friend. 2 12"s ported can surprise you if you've never heard anything like it before.

Sunday. Night.....Fooooootbaaaallll!

Is it only on certian songs? Try turning down the low pass filter.

No, he recommended the right speaker? He said low passed midrange for ambiance. Tweeters can really confuse the stage so he wants the op to leave them out.

Rears in a rear deck will be torn apart by pressure from the subs unless you build enclosures around them in most cases. Rears in a door are fine as long but sometimes tweeters back there can play with your ears. It's best to have them down low or on less power than the fronts if you HAVE to have them. And for like the 10000000th time, let him try with stock rears, turning them on and off and let HIM decide which way is better. You can't assume that he'll like all fronts. Also, in some cases rears can help the mids & highs cut through the bass but sound stage goes out the window in that case.

What they said about moving the box around. In my car I can play well below my tuning freq with it facing a certian direction. It can make a huge difference sometimes.

I've personally ran two audiopipe amps and they're great. Not the prettiest amps around but strong with a small footprint. If it matters, when I switched from my Rockford P500-2 (Class AB, ~700 watts) to my Audiopipe AQX-1800d (Class D, ~1800 watts) and couldnt tell a difference in the quality of sound. The Audiopipe was only louder. (In case sound is what you were worried about. The woofers and the box determine how it will sound, not the amp, unless the amp is distorting.)