xAndrew225x

Logan's setup.

Tuned in! Electrical is looking goood.

Can't find any reviews on it. Could be worth it? I'm not really sure. I notice it has 3 40 amp fuses which is promising. But so does my AQ and it's $249 shipped

that is my main concern is the ohm load, i cant seem to find any info anywhere and i lost the owners manual a long time ago, what are the odds this is a 8ohm sub?? i really think it is a 4 but i need to find out before i start spending money on a new replacement does anyone know where i can find out? Best way to find out would to just measure the impeadance of the current driver. x2 Use a DMM.

Looking great! Put those speakers in!! :popcorn:

Sounds like the work of RE Calc?

Andrew is getting better at boxes! Three thumbs up on my end for PHYSICS! :fing34: How's the box coming?

Nice car! What K hid's are those?

as long as your gain is set accordingly I dont see why not. Its mostly the person behind the knobs why you see the woofers go poof x2 Not trying to be rude but all of these 'can i run xxxrms on my sub?' questions are kind of ridiculous. Try it for yourself, safely and non-stupidly. Slowly turn up the gain. Any signs of stress or clipping clearly means it's too much. Just don't be an idiot and be careful and you should be able to run more than rated.

Niceee. Is that box ported? If so, is the port firing forward or back? I'm really interested in the center console idea as my friend has a single cab chevy also.

It's coming out sick man! Can't wait to see the finished product!

Andrew is getting better at boxes!

I have read 2 different things on this forum ( either that or I misread ) I have seen some people say " You just need to glue a box " But then I have seen other people say " You need to glue and screw your box " What is the best route to go? I would never have guessed that people just glued a box when assembling, Just seems like that would not be much support, and after a few good 35Hz beats that it would just fall apart I always glue and screw, but that's my preference. And screwing in those 45's aren't very hard and ensure that they won't fall out later on. Like said before ALWAYS pre-drill holes.

As long as you don't get an iPhone, you should be satisfied. Android FTW!

They are too power hungry and the mounting depth required is more than I have to spare. Plus these Kickers were buy one get one free w/free shipping. Ahh I see, didn't think of depth and you're right about a good deal. Good luck man! Still looking forward to how this turns out!

That was me!

Be sure to post up a build log with pics too! I'd love to see how it turns out.

no problem man

got bored and figured this should help some Cuts: Top & Bottom - 28" x 28" Left side - 28" x 15.5" Right Side - 27.25" x 15.5" Back - 26.5" x 15.5" Front - 22.75" x 15.5" Port L1 - 22" x 15.5" Port L2 - 11.5" x 15.5"

Thank you very much.. Now I can go buy my Wood! Edit : just to make sure since I'm not very smart on box tuning and this particular sub. 31hz will be safe? of course it is, just be sure to set your subsonic filter on the amp around 28-29hz good luck building the box man. don't get too frustrated as this is your first time and you're bound to run into some dilemmas.

Go 28" wide 17" tall 28" deep Port: 4.5" wide 15.5" tall 41" long Sub up port back. This config would put you at 3.9 cubes net, @ 31hz, 17.88 sq in of port per foot. My 15" SSD is tuned similarly and sounds GREAT. Kills the lows and the range is nice and flat.

Looks pretty cool man. Should've went with Sundown E8's though. I little more kick for an also low price

If you're rca's are ran parallel with the power wire that will cause problems. Unless of course it isn't ran that way

I'll take a look. But it's been working perfect for 5 months or so. Do you have the ign. wire running through a fusebox? or is it plugged into a harness?