Hzd Skizzy

I believe the alpine type r is actually very fairly priced for its class. Considering it is a mainstream driver. A few of my friends have them and have had no problems what so ever.

#2984 #2841 #2741 #2713 #2709 #1269 #1100 I love SSA!

I'm doing the same thing. For each run, you want one fuse near front batt and one near back batt. Im not fusing the run between 2 back batteries because like said above, they're too close. Better safe than sorry. Here are my fuse holders.

Sell your Sa-10s, buy Zv.3's then use the zv.3's so you are able to run your 8 gauge without any trouble =)

Gain knob is not a volume knob, it is simply there to match the signal voltage of the head unit. There is no such thing as under powering.

Here is the truck that it is going in. This is where the box and battery box will be going. Head Unit is in. Wires are ran. This is the start of the battery box, very simple as all it is is a rectangle. It will be carpeted black.

Fold seats down, box on top.

Read the post above yours.

Very nice amp. My car was recently broken into as well. It really sucks

I am trying to figure out the feasibility of supplying 1.21 giggawatts in a car. I'd suggest a flux capacitor.

How do you like those IA coax's Well they do look very nice! I can add a review to my build log this weekend when I put them in of how they perform.

Once again, another great deal with Sean. Bought IA 6.5 Coax's BNIB from him. He shipped right away, was packed extremely well. Thanks again.

I can't believe no one has come out with a Bluetooth capable amplifier yet. Skip the fucking headunit, stream it straight to the amp(s). This coming from a guy who doesn't have a smartphone, Ipod or any other techno gadget. Just surprised with the technology out there now that no one has done it yet. At least someone understands me lol.

Yeah do something crazy SSA. Wireless amp, WiFi connectivity.

I would not cram 15s like you said. Just because you can possibly fit it, it may not be the best route. Now, if you are stuck on sundown subs only, here are a few recommendations. You could do 3 Z v.3 12's although if you got D2's you'd either wire to 1.34ohm or 3 ohm load. If you got D1's it would be .67 ohm or 1.5 ohm. Next, this is just a thought, you could look at doing 4 sa-10s possibly? They recommend 1.5ft^3 for each.

Post 15

The following build log will consist of the following equipment: 2 SSA Xcon 10's Saz-3500d Incriminator Audio 6.5 Coax's Sax-50.4 Pioneer Bt3200DVD Head Unit Box is a 3.0ft^3 @ 30hz enclosure. 2 XS D3400's All knukonceptz wiring and Rca's I hope to have pictures of everything up very soon. It's about time to get things started.

Read that thread carefully, and if any more questions afterwords please ask!

Update: I went out with my dmm, placed it on the battery, rests at 12.7, always has. Turned on truck, started at 13.9, which it always has been at. Then 13.8, 13.7, 13.6 then when I was going to turn it off it was throbbing at 13.5-13.6. The time interval in which it changed by .1v was about 3-4 minutes. It was running for about 15 minutes.

I did run 3 wires, 2 positive 1 negative, but they are dead. I put fuse blocks on them but they are unfused. Otherwise, no other electrical stuff has taken place. I brush the terminals though. I'm hoping that will be the problem. 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. 4.0 V6. Thanks for the help

I stopped at the store today and parked it and then came back and started it up, sounded fine, then put it into reverse and apply the gas a little. It acted as though it was stuttering. So I put it in drive and same thing, it stutters no matter how much I push the petal, it will not go above 5 mph or above about 1.5k rpm. As I got on the road I had to pull it over and troubleshoot because It was just to slow. If I had to describe what it felt like...It was the feeling of putting a manual car into 5th gear and trying to make it go from a stand still. Acts as though it's about to stall out but it never did. So first, I put it into park, turned off the truck, turned it back on and rev'd it, now it was fine. But as I got home I decided to check a few things out. First thing I noticed was it was idle-ling at 500 rpm. Knowing a little about electrical, it seems a tad low. I know my truck usually idles around 800-900 rpm. When I revved it to 900 it then went to 600, then i heard a click and lights would dim, then go 500 then up to 600 then heard the click, lights dim back to 500. Yes, I turned AC on and off and other electronics to see if i could get it to possibly move but it stayed at 500 and it still does. I could not reproduce the problem I had earlier though. What I have come to figure is I do not think it was a transmission problem because it didn't act as if it were slipping, like revving and then going to gear but it was not doing that, the feeling was consistent no matter what position the gas pedal was in. I'm guessing it's the fuel pump, or maybe IAC? But then again I am not sure. Monday I am taking it to the shop to talk about getting this looked at, but I just want to know what the case may be, so I could explain it a little better. Thank you very much for the help.

Equipment plays a little part into the overall performance in a system where the actual installation plays the biggest role.

What vehicle, what power, what electrical, whats your budget, how much space do you have. Please enlighten us, as we will not be able to correctly help you without the answers to these questions. Take a little time to make a useful thread, and we will take the time to answer it properly =)

Imagine how hard it is to keep the prices as they are already, when they are made in the U.S.A. This isn't just another mass produced sony xplod or kicker. A lot of work, and time go into making, designing these woofers.

I'm curious as to know why there is a 65$ price difference between the D1 and the D2 model.