edouble101

I was able to work on the sail panels today. They require the least amount of fabrication compared to the door pods and kicks. The tweeters will be pointed at each other. Stock sail panel Tweeter mounting rings cut Fitted to sail panel and hot glued in place Almost there! Driver side fitted Passenger side fitted. I need to spray them with a high build primer. I then plan on painting them with a black texture paint to give them the stock look. The passenger side sail panle was cracked at the bottom where the two mounting pins are. This makes removing the panel difficult and will separate the Dynaglas from the plastic sail panel. So I will not be reinstalling the sail panels until the doors are finished so I do not have to remove them after they are installed.

Another option you might want to look into is DIYCable Exodus midwoofers (come in 5.25", 6.5" and 8"). They are somewhat oversize but these drivers have no problems digging real low. They would be great for a sub less system as long as you tweeter/full range driver crosses low.

I would change the coil option on the ZCON's to .7 and 1.4 instead of 1 and 2 just to eliminate any "hey it said it was this'...... A more in depth product description would be nice too.

I just received the tracking number thanks Kyle, Rob. I will definitely post back how the install went and results.

Thanks Kyle. The only other item that was in the package other than the alternator was the bolt and bushing that I posted above.

Is this the idler pulley I was sent? The id is probably 0.100" bigger than the bolt size. And I would also think that the "pulley" and zinc plated steel bolt would corrode over a short time. After the bolt is tightened the "pulley" wouldnt even be able to rotate smoothly even if it was a good fit to the bolt. This is an idler pulley I am loking into a 80mm Dayco idler pulley.

There was not an idler pulley in the package. The only pulley was the one bolted to the alternator shaft.

Well the wire is good stuff. I would still have the alt bench tested. Again not that I doubt DC (hell I run their product) and I'm definitely not saying they don't know their sh*t or anything like that. I don't want to be misunderstood here. It's just that sometimes weird things happen. Seeing his post saying that he doesn't understand why your having the issue (and I don't either) would prompt me to do it as a just in case. And maybe try throwing the smaller pulley back on just to see the result? I'm just throwing ideas out there for the proccess of elimination. I understand what you are saying. I had issues with this alternator unrelated to belt slip or voltage fluctuations. The alternator completely stopped working, no voltage output at all. I sent it back to DC Power they tested it and said it was good. Conclusion was it was a weird anomaly. I am getting frustrated with this as I am sure DC Power is as well. I have never heard of anybody having issues with DC Power's alternator output. This is why I believe it is my setup that is at fault, I just cannot come to a definite conclusion to where the weak link is. I take alot of time to research and to install my setup so I do not have problem. I do not want to throw money into it without knowing 100% that it is going to be effective. I will look into benching testing this alternator, if I can find someone local to test it. Based on DC Power's outstanding customer satisfaction in their product I do not expect to see anything other than steller output. Just have to remember that somehow you still may have belt slip... I am loking into buying an idler pulley I just might fabricate a new alternator bracket with idler pulley. Although I might not need a new bracket if I can find a 1" pulley. I will see....

You lost me. What's up?

They look well built, like they actually could handle 3kw vs some other stuff. I know lanzar made some killer amps (optidrive?) back in the day, I think? I'm too young to remember lol. Yep. Lanzar 50c. I heard this amp on four Opti 12's, in a rx-7, was nuts! I owned two Opti 15's, loved them.

Sounds great MR2. Have fun with your build and start a build log

Well the wire is good stuff. I would still have the alt bench tested. Again not that I doubt DC (hell I run their product) and I'm definitely not saying they don't know their sh*t or anything like that. I don't want to be misunderstood here. It's just that sometimes weird things happen. Seeing his post saying that he doesn't understand why your having the issue (and I don't either) would prompt me to do it as a just in case. And maybe try throwing the smaller pulley back on just to see the result? I'm just throwing ideas out there for the proccess of elimination. I understand what you are saying. I had issues with this alternator unrelated to belt slip or voltage fluctuations. The alternator completely stopped working, no voltage output at all. I sent it back to DC Power they tested it and said it was good. Conclusion was it was a weird anomaly. I am getting frustrated with this as I am sure DC Power is as well. I have never heard of anybody having issues with DC Power's alternator output. This is why I believe it is my setup that is at fault, I just cannot come to a definite conclusion to where the weak link is. I take alot of time to research and to install my setup so I do not have problem. I do not want to throw money into it without knowing 100% that it is going to be effective. I will look into benching testing this alternator, if I can find someone local to test it. Based on DC Power's outstanding customer satisfaction in their product I do not expect to see anything other than steller output.

Belt slip was a conclusion to my voltage issues but it appears to me that may not be the case. Rob and Kyle said it was slipping and they know their product so I believe them. I am using Stinger HPM 1/0. I have never seen a spec sheet on my alternator. Rob and Kyle say it works as it should.

I was having belt slip issues, or so we thought. Voltage is more steady now since changing pulleys and my wiring changes. But voltage will bounce from 13.6ish to 15.3 occasionally, I have a feeling this is on clipped songs that are boosted to high in recording (decaf and shizzon tracks). I do not think I need another battery, I hope not. Maybe another set of 1/0 runs? I posted in the XS Power subsection to get Nathan's advice too.

I spent more time listening to my setup. Voltages are still jumping around. I am confused as to why I shouldn't need another battery. Maybe another set of 1/0 runs???

I have a DC Power 270XP a D3400 under the hood and a D3400 in the trunk. Batteries in parallel, no relay(one run 1/0 +, one run 1/0 -). All wiring is Stinger HPM 1/0. Wire connections are terminated with copper ring terminals soldered with silver solder and crimped. Fuse holders are screw down type with Kicker 300a anl fuses. I have two engine grounds in 1/0, alternator to battery ground in 1/0, both batteries are grounded in 1/0. Under hood battery grounded to strut tower, rear battery grounded to frame rail. The only amplifier I am using right now is a Crescendo 3kwp wired at 1ohm gain set approx 45ac volts. I estimate I may see 200a draw now but will be seeing 400a in the future. I am seeing voltage dips and spikes. Would adding another D3400 in the rear help? Or do another set of 1/0 runs front to rear? I plan on using my 3kwp at 0.5ohm in the future along with two four channel amplifiers. I thought with two D3400s I would have been fine. Thanks.

You all will probably say these are junk. I would have no problem running these. Lanzar OPTI1233D

Ah 'glassing doors, fun stuff! What release are you using between the tape and 'glass?

I wasnt able to view your video because of forum rules with post count and blah blah, but I believe you. After changing some things around I have better voltage After an hour of testing with my dvm I wasnt able to come to conclusion as to why my voltage was dropping. But I did change some things around and voltage is better. I also replaced all my cheap 300a anl fuses with Kicker 300a fuses. Most songs voltage is 14.3-14.8 while driving, rpms +2k. At isle voltage falls to 13 flat. A couple songs, which maybe clipped in recording, voltage falls to 13's. Previous connections under hood I found some loose bolt connections on both the XS Power i-bar (this is the second set I had issuers with) and on the battery post terminal New front battery connections (I use dielectric grease on the copper fittings thats why they look gray). I also added a negative run from alt to battery. This made the biggest difference. It appears that there is a protective coating on the alternator case. On the case itself I was not able to get a resistance reading to - battery post. On a bolt going through case I was able to get a resistance measurement. Here is the rear connections. Battery is in spare tire well. All connections made on one post on battery (no i-bar) Voltage is much better. On average 14's. Anybody have any ideas how I could make it more consistent 14's? I do not want to add another + and - run to the rear but I think that is all I have left to do I am just worried now that 0.5ohm will be too much. Only one way to find out.....

Good to hear you guys are running 4~5k with no issues. Sound like a have a voltage gremlin that I need to kick out lol. How many runs of 1/0 and batteries do you guys have?

Funny you ask, I wondered the same. I down shifted and rpms were plus 4k and voltage was the same. I am going to redo some connections this afternoon(not that any connections appear incorrect). I will post pics of what my wiring is after. I have a feeling I need a direct ground from alt to battery. There really isn't anything else it could be imo but I will look. Thanks Kyle.

The only amplifier I am using right now is a Crescendo 3kwp @1ohm load, gain set at 45 ac volts. I plan on using my [email protected] and I also will be using my Crescendo 1000c4 @8ohm and a JL Audio XD400/4 @4ohm. I thought I would be ok to run 0.5ohm in the future but my electrical seems to be struggling as is now. This afternoon I am going to be changing some connections. Hopefully I can figure this out. Any ideas?

I reinstalled my 270XP. Voltage at idle is indeed worse but I assume that is expected when going from a 2" pulley to a 2.5". At Idle, under load, voltage falls to 12.7v. I am still seeing significant voltage drop at engine speeds above 2000rpm. I am nearly 100% positive this is not due to belt slip. With the 2" pulley voltage would bounce around quickly from say 13.5v to 15.2v. Now when the alternator is under load voltage will hold steedy at low 13v. No load 14.5-14.9v. My batteries rest at 12.7-12.9v. All of my wiring is in 1/0 including big 3. All my connections appear good. I have a D3400 under the hood and a D3400 in the trunk. Wired in parallel, one run of 1/0+ and one run of 1/0- frim front battery to rear battery. There really is no difference in voltage from my stock 90a unit to the 270XP, under load voltage is 13.0-13.8v. Based on my amplifier setting I am pulling about 200a max. Why am I seeing voltage drops? I am redoing my setup soon and could see 400a current draw

The recommended length of 12-18" from battery to fuse holder is to keep the unfused length of wire as short as possible. You will be ok with any length, just keep the fuse as close to the battery as you can.

Depending on the size of your sealed enclosure the roll off below fs maybe steeper than what you want. I would start by plotting a few graphs with different qtc and enclosure volumes to see if you currently have the best setup for your needs. Low tuning ported enclosures can be large, atleast the port would be. I would think sub(not subwoofer) 25hz frequencies in a vehicle are hard to achieve. If possible you may want to look at an IB setup. Obviously as cone area and power increase so will output. It doesnt take 4 subs to produce 20hz, 1 can do it if the system is designed for that. The SA series is known to hit the lows well. I am sure the heavy cooper coil and relatively loose suspension has alot to do with that.