edouble101

What do you think of the Axis subs?

Cool pics! I like the vignetting

Jacob at Sundown

I would start by upgrading your negative battery terminal clamp to a similar on that you are using on the positive post. You can leave all of your factory ground wires where the are. Run a ground wire from the battery to a strut tower bolt or another good location. Add a ground wire from the engine block, or a bracket attached to it, to a strut tower bolt or another good location. Your engine ground wire does not need to be on the same side as the battery. Adding a large gauge charge wire is a great idea. This maybe the most difficult out of the three. Leave the factory charge wire in place and route your larger charge wire in a similar fashion. I like to fuse my charge wire, some people do not. Here is a helpful video The following pictures I had taken while installing my engine ground and charge wire. I retained all of the factory wires. In this photo you can see my engine ground wire running from an engine bracket to the passenger side strut tower. This picture shows my battery ground going from the battery to the driver's side strut tower. This picture shows my fused charge wire running from the alternator to the battery. Final connections at battery including power and ground runs to rear battery and factory wires.

Payment info?

I am interested in two 12" BTL N2 dual 1 ohm with all options and daily coil. I have 3300wrms available but I will set gains accordingly. I would like to keep the enclosure as small as possible but within an optimal spec. What is the recommended enclosure size for my setup? Thanks edit change of plans

Everything is coming along nicely

"Clamped" used in this thread is a way of measuring power with a clamp meter. A clamp meter measures a current that pases through a coil in the meter by clamping around the wires. Another term "clamped" is used when two amplifiers are clamped together. Basically one amp is wired into another amp and power output is the sum of the two amps.

They make 45 degree angle woodworking clamps. If you were welding them they make magnets with 45's. I have seen the clamps at hardware stores. Handy tool to have.

Wowza that video hurt my ears and my computer speakers are at min volume lol

Cool vids!!! Looks like you need a wall

Balls, I had a brain fart. I bought the fuse holders here. It is easy to get them confused, one is Impulse Electronics the other is Impulse USA. I have bought from both companies numerous times and I definitely will buy from them again. you said balls That works as well! thanks for saving me a couple dollars, if shipping is worth it. These don't come with fuses? Buy the fuses there too they are dirt cheap.

yes i am, and i dont have any idea were to really start with speakers, would i be able to just hook up the amp and then run the speakers i have now? what confuses me the most is the active passive stuff. Powering speakers passive means that the signal going to the speakers from the amplifier has to pass through a crossover first. You can have a full range signal going into to the amplifier and a full range signal coming out of the amplifier and crossovers packaged with the component set will divide the frequencies for the speakers. Commonly when you buy a two way or three way component set they are packaged with crossovers. This is the most common method when adding a component set. It works well and sounds good. Passive component set Powering speakers active means that the signal coming out of the amplifier is already crossed over (signal is divided for the speaker being used). So this means that the speaker you are powering is directly wired to the amplifier without a crossover in between the two. Some people buy amplifiers that have the crossover circuitry in the amplifier. Other people buy separate crossovers or signal processors that divide the signal then the signal goes to the amplifier. When running active you can choose to use speakers from multiple manufactuers and an assortment of other options are available that you do not have with a passive system. Speaker selection and crossover frequency points can be difficult when running active. Using a passive component set can be easy and for most people they are very pleased. For your first setup of this multitude running a passive soundstage would probably be your best bet

Balls, I had a brain fart. I bought the fuse holders here. It is easy to get them confused, one is Impulse Electronics the other is Impulse USA. I have bought from both companies numerous times and I definitely will buy from them again.

On my last order from Impluse I bought 50 1/0, 10 8g and 10 4g. They forgot to send me the 8g. I called and left a message and within that day they called me back and shipped the 8g to me that week. No hassles whatsoever. I bought from Impulse atleast 5 times. Shipping is very reasonable and fast. I also use Impluse fuses and fuse holders that are dirt cheap. They look good and I haven't had any issues with them. In my build log that is all Impluse fuse holders. I apologize for the thread highjack op, just trying to be helpful.

Thank you

Why is AC voltage dropping when nominal impedence is lowered but wattage increases?

I am not familiar with BMW alternators but I am wondering if the stock alternator is 160 amp.

Thank you. Since I reinstalled the stock alternator and it has been working. I do not think the issue is with my car or the install. But I will deffinitly let you know if something arises. I look forward to reinstall the 270XP, thank you.

Tuned in....

Thanks for looking into it.

Denim, with all respect, how are you designing and selling a product when you do not have all pertaining information? We have not released all pertaining info yet. Minor difference When we are ready to have the Zcon's in normal production, then all info will be ready. Understood. Thanks

Denim, with all respect, how are you designing and selling a product when you do not have all pertaining information?

You should be receiving my alternator today.

The 4500 is a discontinued model. I am sure you could find one used though. Sundown is designing a new amplifier, the NS1. Power ouput of the NS1 will be more than the 4500. Crescendo released a new line of amplifiers at a great price. I have two Crescendo amps and I do like them. Crescendo is often compared to Sundown in build quality and components used. The new line of Crescendo uses a different board and build house than what was previously used. 3500wrms would be max power for two XCON. A 4500 would probably be too much for two XCON. SSA is anticipating production of the ZCON line. The ZCON has a 2250wrms rating and is geared more towards high ouput installs. I am very curious how accurate the ZCON will produce music and how the impedence curve will look without a shorting ring incorporated in the design. I have a XCON 15. I sounds very good and gets decently loud. Very good daily driver imo. I posted a video yesterday, in the video section, of my XCON, check it out. The video doesn't show sound quality or SPL but it does show the XCON beating up my car pretty good. I am looking for a little more output. I am considering the ZCON, BTL N2 and Sundown Z v.3. The ZCON hasn't been established yet as a truly great driver but a few people do have them and are reaching good scores. The N2 has been around for some time now and has proven itself as a good ground pounder. The Z v.2 has good reviews both SQ and SPL wise but power handling is 1500wrms. I always read great reviews about Sundown products and I do want to try out their product myself. Btw the 18" Z v.3 is going to be nuts, high excursion and high ouput.