edouble101

So I just installed (yesterday) my brand spank'in new Kenwwod KDC-X994. I soldered all my connections and I am using the units built in power to power my factory speakers. I am building a system and need tunes to hold me over so that's why I am running HU power. Today on my way to work I had that volume at 28/35 for one song. Half way through the song the volume slowly decreases and stays there for 5 seconds than slowly increase. Hmmm what the hell! I never had a HU do this. I continued to listen as the volume would fluctuate from "loud" to soft. I knew I didn't have a connection issue, just based on the frequency and duration that the volume was changing, it wasn't an abrupt on/off. I called Crutchfield and the techy said that 28 was too high of a volume level for a unit rated at max volume level 35. I said uhhh what the hell that's around 75%, should be golden. He then told me to turn off a factory "on" preset. This preset is "Supreme+". This preset attempts to make up for recording defects, blah blah...gimmick. So I did what he said. I was listening at volume level 26 and the unit was doing the same thing!!! I called Crutchfield again and was told that I have a blown speaker in my car causing the HU to go into protect I dont think so. There is no audible notification of a blown speaker in my car. To end, the techy is sending me a new KDC-X994 just to reassure me that it isn't the HU that is bad. Has anybody experienced similar issues with a HU running factory speakers? I have been installing HU's for about 16 years now and never had this issue.

Thanks! Would have been easier to buy a dash kit but I can't take the easy way out. Wait till you see the front stage pop out of the dash, haha. I love hidden hu installs, don't see too many of them these days. I wanted to mount the Kenwood faceplate where the review mirror is, next time around. Looks like tomorrow will be another snow day. +6" of snow coming tonight. I love living in the Poconos but I really need to get a four wheel drive vehicle.

shizzon have you done any tests with the same car, amp, box and media? I would love to see your results and pictures if you have any.

Interesting read... Is the front of the trunk closest to the cabin or the other way around?? My thought when I read "best output" was he placed the box at the "opening" of the trunk(where the trunk release is), facing inward towards the cabin?? Is that correct? Front of the trunk is towards the rear seat. Rear of the trunk is towards the trunk hatch. The author of the article claims for typical subwoofer enclosure best output and sound in a sedan can be achieved with the subwoofer facing the rear hatch or rear corner or trunk lid. He also explains that the subwoofer needs to be close to the loading surface itself but didn't go into depth what "close" is. I am surprised he didn't mention a relationship between enclosure size and trunk size. I would think a 15^3 enclosure wouldn't load well in a trunk that is 14^3. Read "Aiming Part 2". He had pictures of an enclosure and it's placement. I noted to myself that his enclosure is very tiny compared to what myself and others have. The top SPL trunk cars have the subs facing the cabin and completely sealed from the trunk. I think for typical installs rear facing is probably best. I wouldn't do that without properly deadening the trunk though.

The Kenwood is mounted Not really a big deal but I make everything a big deal. Hyundai made this vehicle as small as they possibly could, seriously. There is absolutley no room for anything extra. Even running a 12g wire from the battery to cabin was a pita. I couldn't imagine trying to run 1/0 through this firewall I am wired to the factory speakers for now, need some tunes till I finish my install. HU ground is on driver's side battery ground Fake faceplate mounted Kenwood KDC-X994 <-- nice HU for under $300

To help answer the last section of your "issue". Trying to load a subwoofer with a baffle over it may work if it is designed correctly. After you removed the sealants you tried to use you had a properly loaded (using the trunk with the subwoofer mounted near the trunk lid) subwoofer for your setup. Hense no gain with trunk lid open or closed. Subwoofer Placement

These amplifiers are nuts.

probably missing http://www.

The board looks so nice

The rattling may not be coming from your roof. Where panels are touching each other and can vibrate could cause a rattling noise. It can be frustrating to track down. Stay by removing panels until you track down the culprit. There are multiple methods available to prevent panel vibrations, good luck.

Wondering if the overall height of the frame is shorter or if you are body dropping.

It will make more sense once you all see the HU installed. The factory unit is approx 5" deep the Kenwood is 7". That was an issue. The ac/heater vents are on both sides of the HU and aren't 7" deep I also had to mount the Kenwood approx 1.5" deeper than the fake faceplate in order for the fake unit to fit flush. So thats 7" + 1.5" + 1"(for RCAs) = 9.5" in a 5" deep dash . I have it all test fitted and made a trim panel as well. I am really anticipating getting the HU installed tomorrow afternoon <--- LOL!!!!

Thanks sefugi! You do superb work I really appreciate your comments.

Looks like 48 sa-10's get loud

Finally received the wiring harness for the H/U! The ground wire is not connected to the factory harness. I will be running a ground wire to the front battery ground connection on the driver's side. All audio grounds are on the driver's side of the vehicle. Not a major update but a little something. Connections made Soldered Heat shrink. I do not use dielectric grease on connections that are not able to become wet. Wrapped Hopefully I will have the HU installed tomorrow. Of course I will post pics

Winter sucks! Chitty weather is a good reason to stay home from work!

Nice s-10. One of my dream projects is a bagged, body dropped s-10 with a gear drive 350

Let us know how it sounds compared to your 15's. What's your favorite 15 so far and why?

I realy want to see a pic of the back seat.... Get rid of the cap(!) or ground the cap to the battery. Ground the rear battery to the chassis. Keep your 110V components in your house.

Thanks Virindok, I try

I saw this build on DIYMA - excellent! This isn't my build but I envy the workmanship. Hopefully I can mimic the quality someday..... BTW the photography is excellent no auto modes here Gallery 1 Gallery 2 Gallery 3 Gallery 4 Gallery 5

Wow Impious you are very knowledgeable.

I had to revisit this build...I forgot how badass it is!

Thanks Alton! Everyone: please let me know if there is anything that I can do better!!